A little help w/curtain fabric please. Flannel?

[Vic&Kathy]

We've about worn out our eyeballs looking at different fabrics for the new curtains we're having made for our beloved TrailMite. One of the prints that we both really like only comes in a flannel.

While flannel will likely do a better job at blocking light and may even have a bit more insulating property than the cottons we've looked at, is there something that we're overlooking? Will flannel absorb moisture (we're in the Pacific Northwest)?

What say y'all? Anyone use flannel to make curtains out there?

Thanx!
Vic

[mary and bob]

Mary, who is a professional quilter, says flannel is OK. She found some camping prints in cotton that she made curtains with for our vintage teardrop. Our Uhaul needed new curtains, and for that she used a patio door curtain that we had from an apartment our son lived in for only a short time. It blocks light good, and can't be seen through from the outside at night with the inside lights on. Bob

[Ruthies Radiola]

Flannel is fine just make sure to wash dry and iron before you sew and if you want it darker line them. have fun Ruth

[Bobbie Mayer]

I used a very light cotton print and lined the curtains with muslin. I'd line flannel, too, it makes them heavier and also blocks more light and heat/cold a little more, but for flannel it will also help them hold their shape. I don't think flannel holds moisture; I use flannel sheets and they seem fine.

[LarryTheresa]

Originally Posted by Ruthies Radiola

Flannel is fine just make sure to wash dry and iron before you sew and if you want it darker line them. have fun Ruth

Totally agree with washing, drying & ironing the fabric before making the curtains. I'd make sure the water is HOT. This should get rid of most shrinkage problems. If you are concerned about colors running use a "Color Catcher" in the wash cycle. It's usually sold with/around the fabric softener sheets.

[theresa p]

flannel will be fine, i agree with lining it. it will give a softer appearance than cottons, so if you're not looking for a crisp look, go for it. pre-shrinking it will certainly help but really, how often will you wash them??
good luck. any photos of the prints you are considering???

[Kenny Strong]

the curtains will have zero insulation value. they would have to be air tight against the window, I assume you have single pane windows anyway.

Later Kenny

[Carol H]

Well moisture on the pacific north west is an issue. I lined my curtains with a thermal lining that you can get at any fabric store - comes in various weights. I dont see why you couldnt use that with the flannel as well. The lining helps a lot to block out light and I have noticed it does help to keep the trailer windows a little bit less drafty on cool nights. The lining has a bit of a plastic coating on one side that helps to stop the curtains from absorbing moisture from the window condensation and avoid mold/mildew issues as well.

[jlbails]

The thermal lining is another great idea, Carol!

[Evergreengirl]

I think the flannel will be OK, but if you really want to block the light, line them with drapery lining specifically made for that purpose. Ask for it at any good fabric store. That's what I did for the curtains in our trailer and it really works! Only problem you will have is that flannel will be a little more difficult to sew than a straight cotton or cotton blend fabric like what is used for quilting, especially if you line it. Lining will give a better drape and appearance to your curtains. Good luck!

[Vic&Kathy]

I knew that I could count on this group.
So the opinion is:
Flannel okay.
Wash the fabric before sewing.
Line it with thermal lining.

Great!

One more question.
Have any of you tried sewing in velco patches to the bottom hem of the curtains so that the curtains can be stuck to the walls to block out the light while sleeping?

Merci' and stuff!

Vic

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Vic&Kathy

I knew that I could count on this group.
One more question.
Have any of you tried sewing in velco patches to the bottom hem of the curtains so that the curtains can be stuck to the walls to block out the light while sleeping?

Yes but little earth magnets work way better and you dont have the problem of trying to keep the velcro stuck to the window frame.

[Glennrose]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Yes but little earth magnets work way better and you dont have the problem of trying to keep the velcro stuck to the window frame.

This is great information, but I have a question about the earth magnets. What is the best way to install them? Do you sew them into the hem of the curtains so they stick to the frame of the window? Or do you attach then to the window frame and also in the hem? What would work best? I've never used these before and they sound like a good alternative to velcro. Are they available in the fabric stores?

[Gilda]

In spite of the comments from others attesting that flannel curtains will be fine in the sometimes damp environment of the Scamp interior, I have my doubts. We have experienced dampness which resulted in our comforter being dampish and clammy. It has been difficult to dry our comforter and towels. Our solution is to carry Damp-Rid from now on, spread out the comforters to dry during the day and to use small, lesser quality towels or backpacking towels that dry more readily. You'll notice that the Scamp factory - installed curtains are of 100% synthetic, much like some shower curtains.

That said, I would always choose the fabric design that I love over practicality. I like to vary the look and theme of my Scamp and I do that by sewing 10" wide print panels that I put on each end of the rods with the original curtain in the middle. I make 16" pillows to match. I use cotton or cotton blend fabrics because I love the prints. You'll notice, too, that I made tie-backs that "adhere" to the "rat fur" with Velcro. (Just a tip: hook and loop tape, aka Velcro, costs only $1 per 1 yard hank at JoAnns. Ask for it because they do not keep it with the expensive Velcro brand)

See the photos below showing my black-out shades which are attached to the "rat fur" with Velcro. I suggest sewing a few 3" lengths along the bottom edge with long spaces between. The Velcro secures to the rat fur very tightly and you will want to remove the shade easily. The exception is for the window at your head while sleeping. There you need to have one long seamless strip of Velcro to prevent cold air from seeping down on your head.

I have tried to use magnets on my 2011 Scamp window frames and find they do not "stick". I think the frames are aluminum.

[LarryTheresa]

Just a thought...drying towels can be a pain. We now put ours over the front seats in our truck and they get dry fairly easily. We use the thinner beach towels for our showers and that helps too.

[Carol H]

Although I suggested using the correct plastic coasted drape lining I tend to agree with others that flannel may be a more likely to wick up moisture than some of the heavier decorating cottons.

Re the earth magnets - sew them into the hem of the curtains. You may want to buy a couple and just check that they actually work with what ever window frame your trailer has first though.

[Evergreengirl]

I don't think flannel will absorb any more moisture than a 100% cotton fabric. Having had several RVs over the last 10 years or so I can tell you that unless you have really good insulation and double pane windows, you are going to get condensation, especially if you camp in the fall, winter or spring in the Pacific Northwest. Here are some of the ways that we reduce (but don't entirely eliminate) the problem:

1. Use a good exhaust fan, especially when cooking, and keep a window cracked open a bit. Anything that will help to circulate the air is good.

2. If you're camping with electrical hook-ups, use a small de-humidifier.

3. During the off season if you can store your egg somewhere with access to shore power, you can keep a little electric heater on the lowest setting to help keep things dry.

4. If you don't have electricity where you store your trailer, at least use one of those little devices with the dehumidifying granules in it and prop all your cushions up on edge so that moisture doesn't get trapped on the undersides. Better yet, store them in your house.

5. When traveling in damp climates, we dry our towels in the tow vehicle when we can and avoid cooking things that need to be boiled or steamed because that just puts more moisture into the air.

All in all, I wouldn't worry too much about what fabric to use, just go with what you like!

[Carol H]

A Maxi Vent for one of my rear side windows was the best thing I added that helps a great deal with condensation issues.

As far as fabrics go - some that are made for outdoor usage such as Sunbrella tend not to absorb the moisture as much and resist mold, mildew . The are a little stiffer than cotton but I personally prefer a stiffer curtain that holds it shape. But then again lining a 100% cotton curtain with a drapery thermal lining will pretty well achieve the same.

[Gilda]

Please tell us further information about "Maxi-Vents" for side windows. I cannot locate any information on past forums nor on the Internet.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Gilda

Please tell us further information about "Maxi-Vents" for side windows. I cannot locate any information on past forums nor on the Internet.

They are actually called a Window/Maxx - photos here. You can find them at Camping World and many RV stores. A number of people here have installed them and they work great! I can now leave a window open in the pouring rain which I could not do before.