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01-30-2016, 03:20 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Sylvio
Trailer: 1975 Boler
Quebec
Posts: 220
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About the fridge opening...
This picture is up side down, as usual. Don't know how to correct that.
What should I understand of this big opening behind the refrigerator? Do I still need it if I get an electrical fridge? Can't bugs get in? Why put plexiglass there?
I'm kind of puzzled... Thanks for enlighting me!
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01-30-2016, 05:35 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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Those vents are needed for propane but not for electric
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01-30-2016, 07:00 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
Posts: 851
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It depends on the refrigerator type to be installed. The vents could be removed for compressor type fridge (but better to keep the vents) and are required for absorption type fridge to remove the heat.
__________________
Sergey
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01-30-2016, 07:04 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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You can place screening inside to keep insects out and a magnetic cover on the outside in the winter to keep cold out when not in use.
__________________
Jim
Never in doubt, often wrong
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01-30-2016, 07:18 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,845
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Hi Sylvio,
I assume that you are taking the pictures with a "smart" phone. I use the quotes because I think sometimes they are a little too smart for their own good. Is there a way to turn off the automatic screen rotation? Maybe after that the up/down of the picture will be recorded correctly. Other than that, processing (rotating) of the picture using a picture editing program should do it. Just a thought.
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01-30-2016, 10:07 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Surf-Side
Manitoba
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokhapkin
It depends on the refrigerator type to be installed. The vents could be removed for compressor type fridge (but better to keep the vents) and are required for absorption type fridge to remove the heat.
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I agree - no matter what type of unit , the heat has to go somewhere , if the unit has no clearance to the sides and top the only place for the heat to go is out the back. It is of course better to vent it outside than to the inside of the trailer. As noted in another entry , screen can be put inside the vent to keep out pests.
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01-30-2016, 11:30 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Sylvio
Trailer: 1975 Boler
Quebec
Posts: 220
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Very helpful. Thanks guys!
Any risks of water coming in? While driving especially?
My vent cover / grill is broken: two slats are missing. I'll need to find a place that sells stuff like that.
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01-30-2016, 11:52 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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We're considering using the big vent, which opens on a hinge at the top, as a coffee-sales awning. Just pop it up and put up an "open, coffee" sign. Ha ha.
Inspired by its current dark brown color and the thought we'd call her "the Coffee Bean."
All a joke, not happening, but it's an amusing (to us) idea;.
Paul's going to fiberglass it closed and that'll be the back of a closet/galley area.
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01-30-2016, 12:17 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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Bug screen inside backed by 1/4" hardware cloth is what I used to keep bugs out. Works well, I just drilled and riveted right through the vent with appropriately sized washers on the inside so the rivet would hold the hardware cloth.
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01-30-2016, 03:29 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Randy J.
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 154
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If you are planning a conventional, 120 volt fridge, why not consider instead a 12/120 Volt cooler? We carry ours in a garage/cabinet that I built to fill the hole left when I got rid of our old Dometic fridge. It travels in the trailer on 12V from the car or in the car itself - flexible! 120 in the campsite. And it holds more and is more efficient than the old fridge - 48 watts.
My plan is to seal the vents somehow to keep out moisture but keep the original outside look. I have lots of around my cooler but if you need more ventilation, you might just cover them inside with a screen.
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01-30-2016, 04:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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It is my understanding that the limit of the 12V car coolers is 20 degrees less than ambient temperatures. If that is true, this isn't adequate cooling in 80 summer weather.
Of course, this information may be wrong.
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01-30-2016, 04:44 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
Posts: 851
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Yes, the information is wrong. It depends on the fridge type. Compressor type fridge provides good cooling ability. But it can't be powered by LP tank.
__________________
Sergey
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01-30-2016, 04:53 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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bpfick was talking about 12V coolers.
I believe that they cannot adequately cool when ambient temp is 80F or above. Food should be at 40F or less.
I think they can cool 40F below ambient, not 20F, but not a substitute for a proper fridge.
Make that 20C below ambient:
Mobicool 3-way Absorption Power Cooler, 35-qt
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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01-30-2016, 05:00 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
Posts: 851
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There are a lot of compressor type 12V fridges. They cool to 0F. See Robot Check for example.
__________________
Sergey
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01-30-2016, 05:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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It depends on the ambient temperature how cold any cooler will get.
The Mobicool model I posted cools 20C ( 68F ) below ambient, but it costs $329 in Canada. Other makes and models are cheaper and much less capable.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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01-30-2016, 05:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
Posts: 851
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Good compressor type 12V fridge costs well above 500 USD...
__________________
Sergey
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01-30-2016, 07:26 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Eric
Trailer: Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 256
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We have a 12V/120V compressor fridge. It has worked in the summer in the desert in the SW USA with no issues. They are not cheap and we paid $500+ for a marine/RV grade appliance. We love it and would do it again. YMMV.
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01-30-2016, 08:11 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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I'll correct my original response by saying that the current vents and clearances in your camper were designed to comply with the installation specs for the original refrigerator. You asked whether the vents would be necessary with an electric replacement refrigerator. Maybe, but the refrigerator you choose hopefully will include its own installation specs. You should make sure to provide vents and clearances per the specs.
It's best to check installation specs BEFORE you buy the replacement refrigerator. Then compare choices and consider what modifications will be needed.
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01-30-2016, 08:25 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
Michigan
Posts: 291
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Yes, but I think we (I) may have caused some confusion here.
We're co-discussing both the little portable car cooler chests and real refrigerators and perhaps there something missing in communication here.
Apologies.
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01-31-2016, 08:10 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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You asked "why put plexiglass there?"
I think because the PO HAD some plexiglass and wanted to keep the bugs out.
I know we do some things for that reason. We HAVE some material that'll more or less approach doing the task, and it's free, and handy, so we use it "for now."
There's not much other reason to put plexiglass over a big vent unless one wanted the light without the bugs.
PS--we're taking the vent out & fiberglassing the vent area because we've decided to use an ice chest.
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