Adding rear jacks

[rabbit]

Mike is on the mark. The business of deploying drop down stabilizers in the rear and then leveling requires some interpretation and judgment. If you pull in and unhitch on reasonably level ground, it's very likely with the coupler above the ball that the trailer is nose up. Drop the Scamp-type stabilizers and go to the front and level the trailer, stabilizer foot wil just rise up in the air. AFTER leveling fore and aft, you go to the back, let the foot down to ground contact and you can snug them a bit with the provided steel round bar by inserting thru the holes in the shell and foot of the stabilizer and levering up one notch, perhaps two if the the drop down leg was not quite down. NO MORE THAN THAT NO HARM.

If the trailer (for any reason or condition) sits nose down more than a few degrees when you deploy the rear stabilizers, leveling with the tongue jack will remove weight from the tires and axle and place it on three points at the extreme ends of the frame (stabilizers and tongue jack). DON'T DO THIS!!!! Please remember this: the tongue jack is indeed a jack at one extreme end of the frame BUT with the pivot point of the trailer weight at the axle, two supporting points are IN THE MIDDLE of the frame span. The stabilizers are not called jacks and should not be used as such because in combination with the tongue jack they are capable of removing weight from the central point of support (wheels) and increasing the effective span of the frame.

Imagine a 1x6 board 10' long supported at the ends by two concrete blocks. Imagine you represent weight of the trailer and step up on the plank in the center. Plank bows downward or possibly cracks and breaks. Put a third concrete block under plank at center point and step up again. Doesn't deflect and doesn't break. Your experience with the plank duplicates what happens to your trailer frame when you remove weight from it's central pier of support. That image is the path to understanding.

jack

[rabbit]

Some clever lad or lassie will now ask what we do when we jack a wheel off the ground to change a flat. Same conclusions apply. IF the jack is placed as close as possible to the axle, it simply replaces the wheel as a weight-bearing pier in the center of the frame span.

jack

[Byron Kinnaman]

My complete procedure for leveling and set up.
1. Position the trailer where I want it.
2. Us the BAL wheel leveler to level side to side. (I have bubble levels on the outside of the trailer along with using a round bubble level inside) The BAL wheel leveler also chocks one wheel.
3. Put chocks at the other wheel.
4. Disconnect from the tow vehicle and move it out of the way.
5. Lower the tongue with the tongue jack until the front of the trailer is about 1/2 bubble low.
6. Deploy the stabilizers with pad on the ground or on blocks if needed.
7. Raise the tongue with the tongue jack until the trailer is level front to back.

DONE... Simple and no undo stresses on the frame.

[rabbit]

. . . and other devices (scissor jacks, screw jackstands) should, despite their nominal function, be used for supporting weight rather than lifting it when deployed at bumper or frame ends.

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[rabbit]

Someone (not his real name) once said: "Everything should be made as simple as possible but certainly no simpler." The problem with every procedure and protocol is that certain pre-conditions are always assumed, at least by he who develops the procedure. If you understand a general class of phenomena, you will learn to recognize special conditions which invalidate volumes of "jus do wat I tell ya" instructions and begin to develop your own method and sequence.

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[Bobbie Mayer]

Thanks, Byron, that's basically what I do though usually not with the BAL. I didn't see how anyone could be putting out the stabilizers first unless it was completely level to start with.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer

Thanks, Byron, that's basically what I do though usually not with the BAL. I didn't see how anyone could be putting out the stabilizers first unless it was completely level to start with.

I would do the same thing if completely level, the Bal wheel leveler would just put enough pressure on the wheel to keep everything in place. There's always just enough pressure on the stabilizers to stabilize the trailer. That is prevent it from rocking and bouncing when walking across the floor or turning over when in bed, etc. The vast bulk of the weight is on the wheels, hence leveling side to side by raising the low side wheel. That can be done with blocks of wood, lego leveling blocks, etc., or a BAL leveler.

[Bobbie Mayer]

I have a BAL, but I mostly haven't needed to use it so don't take it if I know I won't need it. (I've used it in two places.) In the Campster the rear stabilizers do prevent the trailer from tipping backwards when you stand for more than a moment or two at the rear door so they take some weight but not a lot.

[Francesca Knowles]

True, locating the stabilizers closer to the axle will moderate the too-low effect somewhat- but in my opinion it'll be at a cost.

I may be wrong, but I think that the farther "out" the stabilizers are placed, the greater the stability when deployed...close to the axle just seems too near the center of the load.

And regardless of location, if they hang below the frame at all, they're one more thing to catch/possibly break when camping off pavement with such an already-low trailer.

Francesca

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

I may be wrong, but I think that the farther "out" the stabilizers are placed, the greater the stability when deployed...close to the axle just seems too near the center of the load.

That depends on what instability you are trying to fix. If you are trying to take out the bounce of the suspension, you want to be close to the axle. Mine are a bit closer to the axle than the rear bumper, and work great.

If you are trying to fix a trailer which is tipping, then certainly at the corners is better.

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

And regardless of location, if they hang below the frame at all, they're one more thing to catch/possibly break when camping off pavement with such an already-low trailer.

Sure, but the closer to the axle, the less likely to catch. Imagine the trailer unhitched and lifted at the tongue until something hits at the rear, and lowered to until something hits at the front - and how the location affects when it hits.

[Francesca Knowles]

There's also the goin' over backwards potential to be considered. Probably more of a consideration with longer trailers, but still...

The bounce doesn't really bother me, but the one time I had a full water tank and my old Mother and I went a-- over teakettle at the dinette sure did!

Hasn't happened again since I took out the water tank, though.

Francesca

[Bobbie Mayer]

Okay, I'm looking at these jacks. Atwood 82301 Stabilizer Jack : Amazon.com : Automotive

I can't figure out if they are bolt on or weld on. Any clue? Any suggestion for better prices but quick delivery?

Bobbie

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer

Okay, I'm looking at these jacks. Atwood 82301 Stabilizer Jack : Amazon.com : Automotive

I can't figure out if they are bolt on or weld on. Any clue? Any suggestion for better prices but quick delivery?

Bobbie

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/85860.pdf

[GMike A]

From the review on Amazon

3 of 7 people found the following review helpful

1.0 out of 5 stars my review
I assumed this would be a pair but was a single item. After I received this item I was able to find a pair at a local retailer for the same price of this single item. Did not return it as the shipping and restocking fee makes it to costly.

[Francesca Knowles]

They're very commonly sold one at a time, as Mike points out. The operating handle is extra, too. (I just used a piece of rebar with mine)

Here's a link to the whole shootin' match for $41.00 link

Francesca

[GMike A]

Here is a pair on EPAY for $25 - NOTE I have not compared the two -just surfing
2 Trailer Stabilizer Jacks Swing Down Levelers RV camper Cargo Utility | eBay

Pair of Trailer Stabilizer Jacks.
1,000 lb Capacity per jack.
Spring loaded swing down jacks.
Easy to use practical means of leveling or stabilizing lightweight trailer of all types, RV's, Cargo, Utility, Enclosed, Car haulers....
Jacks can be bolted or welded to the trailer tongue or frame.
Retracted height = 11.5", Extended height = 17.5", Lift = 6".
Folds down and telescopes down.
Ratchet bar/Handle rod NOT included. If you need the bar/handle, it's $2 extra. The bar is not needed, you can simply use your foot/hand to push the jack down.
Base Plate = 3-3/8" x 4"
Mounting Plate = 1-7/8" x 4", bolt holes are 3" o.c.

I disagree with the guy on ebay you do need a bar

[Francesca Knowles]

Heckuva buy, Mike!

And you're right- you do need a bar 'cause that's how you drop them and snug them up once dropped. ( vid below) But an extra two bucks sounds like a deal there, too!

Francesca

Atwood Stabilizer Jack - YouTube

[Bobbie Mayer]

Thanks, I know the price is just one (except where it says two.) I can get the Amazon ones shipped through Prime two-day so that's a plus for me as the guy welding them on for me may have a tight schedule getting to it before I leave for Washington. The manual is great. I might or might not be able to get the EBay ones just as fast.

On the bar- I was assuming I'd need a handle but my friend who has them on her teardrop doesn't use one. What exactly does the handle do?

[Francesca Knowles]

We must've been typing at the same time, Bobbie!

See short vid in my post above...

Francesca

[Bobbie Mayer]

I saw it, thanks, that helps a lot.