Adding rear jacks - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-12-2013, 01:45 PM   #1
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Red face Adding rear jacks

So our 13 ft. Boler doesn't have any rear stabilizer jacks on it. We ordered 2 from scamp and are ready to put them on. So the question is, where, exactly, do we put them!!?? I sure would appreciate any pictures you might have of your jacks and where they are installed. I assume they go like this (angled out), right?:

___________
/ \
/ \

It seems like they should go on the frame, perhaps behind the rear skirt, towards the tires?? It appears to have a way to bolt them... should we bolt or weld?

Seems like such a silly question to have to ask.. LOL sorry!!
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:31 PM   #2
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I don't have a boler but mine are back by the bumper,and yes angled out. I bolted mine on just in case I have to take them off to fix or replace them.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:33 PM   #3
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Which side of the skirt are they on? Where you can see them (bumper side) or just behind the skirt (tire side)?
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:05 PM   #4
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Check this forum link out

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...cks-44413.html
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:18 PM   #5
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I think location may depend at least partly on the (stabilizer) jack type- if you ordered them from Scamp, are they the kind shown in these pictures, and did they come with weld-on brackets or bolt on?



Francesca
Attached Thumbnails
2009_scamp_13_travel_trailer_for_10_200_20671933.jpg   stabilizer.jpg  

DSC01867.jpg  
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:44 PM   #6
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Yes! That's the kind! Thank you so much, that answers my question! Appreciate the pictures!
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:49 PM   #7
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I also am considering mounting of jacks. I purchased a pair of scissor jacks from Princess Auto. I think the ones I purchased are intended as automotive spares. At a sale price of $15 each, I couldn't resist.

2 Ton Scissor Jack | Princess Auto

The question now, is what to do with them. I could mount them to the frame, but I'm concerned they will rust at a faster than average rate. Economy tools often have economy metal quality. I think a better option would be to put a mounting point of some sort on the trailer frame and stow the jacks inside.

There are no bolt holes in the jack, so I would have to make holes of my own anyway. I suspect that I could make my own holes with a drill press if needed.

I could just place the jacks against the frame, and count on the weight of the trailer to hold them in place. It seems to me that something should be done make sure there is no movement.

As a do-it-yourselfer with without access to a machine shop, what would you use as a mounting bracket?

Derek
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post

As a do-it-yourselfer with without access to a machine shop, what would you use as a mounting bracket?

Derek
If you have access to a welder, and the saddle can be removed from the jack (can't tell if it's bolts or rivets), I would weld a 1/4" pin in from the back, then drill a hole in the frame of the trailer.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:10 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
If you have access to a welder, and the saddle can be removed from the jack (can't tell if it's bolts or rivets), I would weld a 1/4" pin in from the back, then drill a hole in the frame of the trailer.
It looks like the saddle is attached with two metal rivit/pins. Although you can see them from the underside, there is a metal plate that significantly limits access to them from the inside. It appears that those pins are the pivot point for the jack mechanism. It might be possible to wiggle a dremel in there and cut them, though it would be tricky.

I like the 1/4" pin idea. I had an old car which had a pin to align the brake rotor to the wheel rim. I could probably drill a hole into the existing saddle, cut a thread into the existing hole, and thread in a similar pin. Would this be strong enough? Thoughts?


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Old 04-12-2013, 08:32 PM   #10
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Hmm, I need to do that. Advantages of the Boler kind vs. scissor jacks? Faster? Do they have as much play? Can I get bolt on in either kind?
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:38 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer View Post
Hmm, I need to do that. Advantages of the Boler kind vs. scissor jacks? Faster? Do they have as much play? Can I get bolt on in either kind?
Princess Auto sells a bolt-on style scissor jack. You can probably get them at your RV supplier too, though you will likely pay more.
2 pc 2 Ton RV Scissor Jack | Princess Auto

Etrailer is another option:
Scissor Jack Trailer Jack | etrailer.com

Or the pull down style here:
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trai...Pull_Down.aspx
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:43 PM   #12
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Two-ton jacks for stabilizers! That's a lot of muscle for something to be mounted at a non-lifting part of the frame...

Per installation location:

In my opinion, those scissor jacks will hang down too far if permanently mounted in a way that provides access to the operating mechanism. I'm struggling with a similar problem with some (slightly different) jacks I bought for my Trillium. I now regret that I didn't stick with the same earlier discussed (Atwood-type) jacks from Scamp that fold up side-to-side flush with the bumper.

Francesca
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #13
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I think I like the fold-up type, too. Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
In my opinion, those scissor jacks will hang down too far if permanently mounted in a way that provides access to the operating mechanism. I'm struggling with a similar problem with some (slightly different) jacks I bought for my Trillium. I now regret that I didn't stick with the same earlier discussed (Atwood-type) jacks from Scamp that fold up side-to-side flush with the bumper.
It seems to me that the hang down issue depends on how close you mount them to the axle. I suppose if you mount them off the rear bumper, they probably will ground out if you go over a speed bump or whatever other road obstacle. I saw a stick built trailer today that had scissor jacks, but the height of the frame was much higher.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:48 PM   #15
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I prefer the drop down jacks that come standard on the Scamp. I believe, from watching people with scissor jacks, that I can set up and stabilize faster. A quick pull and a jack drops down, foot on the pad and it's against the ground, do it twice and you're done with the rear. Go to front and bring the trailer up to level with the tongue jack and your done.
If done right you'll the same pressure on each rear corner all the time. With scissor jack it's very easy to apply uneven pressure thus twisting the frame.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:03 PM   #16
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I used to use the "STABILIZER" jacks that came on the Scamp to level it side to side, then I would crank up the front tongue jack to level front to back, but on a previous posting, it was pointed out that the jacks were intended to only stabilize the trailer from bouncing when moving around inside, and to use them for leveling would cause the frame to bend/fracture since there is quite a lot of leverage on the frame so far back from the axle. Well, I finally had my frame fracture, so when I had the frame repaired & beefed up, I also changed out the axle, and added a heavy threaded pin through the frame just behind the wheel, so a scissors jack could be left in place or taken off when trail camping.
I also now use jack stands towards the front of the trailer frame just in front of the door and at the street side just under the front of the body, so the tongue jack is not handling all the weight, so the frame is under less stress again.
Hope this helps.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:54 AM   #17
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Ok, being newer to some of this, let me ask a question. My ParkLiner has 2 rear stabilizer jacks and a handle to crank them down. My last trailer, my home built one, my bed was right on top of my axle so all I used was a pair of jack stands that I put out up front so the load wasn't being carrier on the tongue jack. I havent used my stabilizer jacks because the rear dinette stays down as a bed and I dont feel it really moveing much on me....but I have thought about adding something up front so the tongue isn't supporting the load all the time. Its not going to hurt my suspension if I don't use the rear stabilizers is it?
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:31 AM   #18
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For those that are considering bolting to the frame, check out this thread at the CasitaForum! http://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/...n-frame-drama/
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:34 AM   #19
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Interesting conversation. I always did the opposite. I dropped the trailer. Raised the front jack til it was level, dropped the rear jacks til they hit the ground and then just added a little tweak to set them. I never used them the other way around as that would stress the frame more IMO.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I prefer the drop down jacks that come standard on the Scamp. I believe, from watching people with scissor jacks, that I can set up and stabilize faster. A quick pull and a jack drops down, foot on the pad and it's against the ground, do it twice and you're done with the rear. Go to front and bring the trailer up to level with the tongue jack and your done.
If done right you'll the same pressure on each rear corner all the time. With scissor jack it's very easy to apply uneven pressure thus twisting the frame.
So what do you do on a slope? I always level the trailer, then put the jacks in to stabilize. I level the trailer by raising or lowering the tongue. My current jacks are the triangular stands with a big bolt that screws up or down (very slow) so that works fine.

I don't get how you are bringing the trailer up to level if the jack is already down.
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