Advice and Ideas Needed for Boler Repair - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-07-2016, 08:00 PM   #1
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Boler
Connecticut
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Advice and Ideas Needed for Boler Repair

I have just been given a 1968 boler 13 ft trailer the interior is disgusting and badly hacked up but it is respectable looking road worthy and solid. Someone at some point removed the furnace and fridge and left all the vents so water came in and rotted out the floor. So I've got to replace the floors witch is not a big deal. But I do want to know where I can find the rubber weather stripping that goes around the pexi glass front and rear windows, I also want to know what I should do about the walls and ceiling because most of the vinyl is gone and what's left is absolutely unusable I was thinking of painting it with some mold and mildew resistant paint but I'm not sure if that will work. I want some information on the stove witch is a writer industries stove I am wondering if I can get parts. And finally I would like to seal off the vents for the fridge and furnace as I will not be having a furnace or a fridge. Thank you for reading. this is not a restoration I just want to get this trailer back on the road and use it this summer. There isn't much I can do to it that is going to make it worse. Plus it's next home was a dumpster. Please share you're opinions you probably know more than me about the trailer.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:47 AM   #2
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How good of you to save this egg from the dumpster and get her back on the road. I came across this video for replacing Boler Windows and thought it might be helpful to you. The guy Kevin had other good Videos too. Scamptrailers.com sells plexiglass gasket and lockstrip by the foot. I wonder if it would work for a Boler. Good luck!!




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Old 03-08-2016, 11:34 AM   #3
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
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I'm delighted to read a post in which the floor ply replacement is considered not a big deal! That's inspiring!

Paul is 'almost' at the point of being able to put in our new ply after months of other work. Once that's in, the rest starts to feel like real progress. Until that's done, I haven't been able to go in there. Paul's lighter than I am, with bigger feet.

Anyway, if you use a primer designed for fiberglass, you can get a lot of other paints to stick to it...prep work is key for all the work; be sure not to skimp on that.

Wishing you all the best, and hope you get on the road this summer!

(Same hope for ourselves and our amerigo!)
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:38 AM   #4
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
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Oh...you can fill in the open vent holes in a number of ways; we found an old, fiberglass, one-piece bathroom pulled from an RV on CraigsList for free and cut it up for patches, then fiberglassed them in using blue masking tape to hold them in place while we worked around the tape, then took the tape off and finished the job. Lots of careful prep, care while working, plenty of sanding, wiping down with acetone, fairing with Bondo-Hair, more sanding, and finally washing with dish soap, letting dry, more acetone wipe, and priming with Rustoleum Wood and Fiberglass Marine enamel primer (white). You can use Kilz, too, according to many on FGRV.

Paul had to fill 59 holes in ours, the smallest very tiny, Bondo-Hair "fairing" only needed, to the 2 x 3 foot fridge vent hole. He's gotten really comfortable with fiberglass, but six months ago he was afraid of it. (See the Fear of Fiberglassing thread on FGRV.)

I'd use enamel paint, though it usually takes a "while" to "fume off." Give it some ventilation before you seal yourself in with it. I don't use enamel in our house, except on woodwork, but this is going to take a jostling -- as they say, a trailer endures a "rolling earthquake" every time you tow it.

Would you let us know how you're doing with it?

We love pictures...not that I seem to be posting any.

BEST!
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:03 PM   #5
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Name: George
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Just an idea which may or may not work for you? I found a Trillium 4500 three years ago and it had no furniture of any kind inside, ie. no cushions, curtains, table, fridge, stove or heater. Luckily for me the walls were in reasonable shape so I did not have to replace the stuff other than get rid of the mold. I did not see a need to buy all the parts new since they can really add up. So I found a 10 year old tent trailer which the owner did not want to repair and I took all the gas equipment cushions , etc. and moved it to my Trilli. I love having the freedom to camp on sites without electricity and still be able to cook and enjoy a cold beer at night. I was even able to sell the trailer after I removed all the parts I needed. Just a crazy idea that might work for you? I also used close weave vinyl-backed carpet as a wall covering with success on an earlier Trili reno.
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:57 PM   #6
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Jokra, hi, you sound very innovative and frugal, wonderful!

Best.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:40 PM   #7
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Great to hear you saving this piece of history

Please DO NOT install the window seal backwards like shown in the video. Installing the seal backwards will usually result in the window leaking, the locking channel is designed to go to the outside. I also know of a number of windows that have blown into the trailer while driving, there is not as much support when installed backwards.
Lots on info on replacing your Front & Rear Windows here
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:47 PM   #8
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Thank you and I didint mean it as no big deal I have since realized the subfloor supports the entire body and I am not replacing the entire floor just a few panels.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:54 PM   #9
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I can't figure out how to post photos I am on an I pad.
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Kevin98 View Post
I can't figure out how to post photos I am on an I pad.

Touch "replay" in the bottom corner.
Touch the photo symbol now showing on the bottom line.
Select your photo and upload.
Select the size
Press send in top corner.




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Old 03-08-2016, 10:20 PM   #11
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It asks me for a URL?
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin98 View Post
Thank you and I didint mean it as no big deal I have since realized the subfloor supports the entire body and I am not replacing the entire floor just a few panels.
The difficulty of the job depends on how far you have to go, of course. I'm always sorry to hear anyone has to replace floor ply...and hope it's not as extensive as some have had to do. Lots of great photos on different threads about complete floor plywood replacements! Horrifying, all eerily similar, and encouraging in that one isn't alone in this kind of repair.

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Old 03-09-2016, 05:38 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Kevin98 View Post
It asks me for a URL?
You need to use the image symbol
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:53 PM   #14
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Name: Kevin
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Here it is right now not to bad looking I don't think for what it is should clean up with a power washer and some bleach
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:53 PM   #15
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There was supposed to be a picture but it didint work
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:57 PM   #16
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Are you waiting long enough for it to download?
There should be a message ( at the bottom of the box ) telling you it is downloading.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:49 PM   #17
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Name: Kevin
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This is after I removed the kitchenette and the floor below and in front of it. It seems to be the only major rot in the camper besides one other small piece witch I am going to patch.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:51 PM   #18
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Trailer: Boler
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Here is the kitchen as I found it. Is it worth trying to save or should I cut the countertop off and build the rest from plywood?
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:04 PM   #19
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Here is the outside
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:00 PM   #20
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Florida
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If the fiberglass molded "furniture" is sound, meaning not broken, You might want to keep it. The concern I would have with replacing the interior fiberglass with wood is the added weight. These little trailers were designed to be lightweight and the trailer is designed accordingly. If you add too much wood, the added weight could cause a weak spot in the frame to break too. Ian has a lot of good information on Bolers on his website that might help you.
Another very important fact when removing the interior components of these trailers, the closet and the kitchen cabinets support the roof. It looks like yours still have the supports on the left side of the kitchen counter by the sink. Those twisted iron bars are functional and provide support for the upper cabinets and the roof. If you remove the kitchen cabinets, especially the lower ones, you will need to support the roof or it will sag and be likely to crack or break. I hope this helps.
There is also a very informative thread on fiberglass repair. Search for fiberglass in the forums and you'll find it. Good luck and I look forward to more pictures on your progress.

Sorry, I missed that you already removed the lower kitchen cabinet. You might want to prop the upper cabinets or roof with a piece of lumber that's padded on the end contacting the roof. The sag may not be noticeable, but over time your roof could be damaged.
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