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Old 06-01-2015, 11:09 PM   #81
Whs
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Name: Will
Trailer: Scamp 16 layout 4
Nevada
Posts: 13
It seems as if we're all on the same page in that the higher the a/c unit the better. Unfortunately, my trailer was not built to support a roof mount and I decided to mount it on the floor under the front bunk. I felt it was more aesthetically pleasing than the window despite the inefficiency, so here I am.

Originally, I installed a frigidaire 6000 btu unit and it was struggling to keep up in the desert heat. Frigidaire makes an 8000 btu unit that is the same dimensions. So after all of the research and back and forth, I installed it. So far, it blows a lot more air (190 cfm vs 150 cfm). The unit also blows out measurably colder (49 vs 62 at 90 ambient).

The real test will be tomorrow when it's 98 outside and full sun, fingers crossed. I'll check back in tomorrow.
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:31 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whs View Post
It seems as if we're all on the same page in that the higher the a/c unit the better. Unfortunately, my trailer was not built to support a roof mount and I decided to mount it on the floor under the front bunk. I felt it was more aesthetically pleasing than the window despite the inefficiency, so here I am.

Originally, I installed a frigidaire 6000 btu unit and it was struggling to keep up in the desert heat. Frigidaire makes an 8000 btu unit that is the same dimensions. So after all of the research and back and forth, I installed it. So far, it blows a lot more air (190 cfm vs 150 cfm). The unit also blows out measurably colder (49 vs 62 at 90 ambient).

The real test will be tomorrow when it's 98 outside and full sun, fingers crossed. I'll check back in tomorrow.
Even the big box RV people will recommend trying to park in shade to reduce the load on their AC, and gain some efficiency. The nice thing about our trailers is their small size. Many owners will tuck them under an ez-up awning as well, to reduce the sun's heat on the trailer. Might be an option if you want additional cooling.
Looking forward to your test run results!
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:23 AM   #83
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,419
I can't say how well it works, but I am trying a mini-split heat pump with the inside unit mounted a few inches under the ceiling (the air intake is on top). Centered in the rear over the window it should distribute the air pretty good. Being a heat pump rated to 17*F it should reduce the need for back up heat from a small electric heater I plan to carry in the winter. This unit is rated 9000 BTU and had inverter power so short cycling should not be a problem. It also has dehumidifying settings so perhaps in L.A. (Lower Alabama) mold and mildew may not be as big a problem.
My thought is to each his own and if roof top works or window or mini split the let 'er rip.
As to cost I got the mini split on sale for $500 which is more than the window unit, but less than the roof top. As to weight the unit weighs less than the roof top and no roof load.
Mounting the inside unit is something I am working on, however. Since I have redone the cabinets and bonded them to the shell these will be the foundation for the air handler. A work in progress!
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:39 AM   #84
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Name: Steve in NY
Trailer: Scamp
New York
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redbarron.....I hope you post pictures. that sounds promising.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:43 AM   #85
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Do you have to "charge" the split unit after it's installed?? Sounds good especially for the price and weight....since you cant have a roof top. You may have in a previous post...but can you post a link to that unit. I may have other ideas for it...home use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
I can't say how well it works, but I am trying a mini-split heat pump with the inside unit mounted a few inches under the ceiling (the air intake is on top). Centered in the rear over the window it should distribute the air pretty good. Being a heat pump rated to 17*F it should reduce the need for back up heat from a small electric heater I plan to carry in the winter. This unit is rated 9000 BTU and had inverter power so short cycling should not be a problem. It also has dehumidifying settings so perhaps in L.A. (Lower Alabama) mold and mildew may not be as big a problem.
My thought is to each his own and if roof top works or window or mini split the let 'er rip.
As to cost I got the mini split on sale for $500 which is more than the window unit, but less than the roof top. As to weight the unit weighs less than the roof top and no roof load.
Mounting the inside unit is something I am working on, however. Since I have redone the cabinets and bonded them to the shell these will be the foundation for the air handler. A work in progress!
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:40 PM   #86
Whs
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Name: Will
Trailer: Scamp 16 layout 4
Nevada
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Bingo!
Switched out the 6000 btu for the 8000 btu and we have success!

94 outside with direct sun, a chill 73 inside.

Looks like I found the recipe for my Las Vegas scamp
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Old 06-07-2015, 04:32 PM   #87
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Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
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Would shading the vent where outside air is brought in to cool the coil help at all?
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:02 PM   #88
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whs View Post
Originally, I installed a frigidaire 6000 btu unit and it was struggling to keep up in the desert heat. Frigidaire makes an 8000 btu unit that is the same dimensions.
I have a 6K LG window unit in the side of my Scamp that works OK, but not really any extra. A fan to put the air on you helps though. I originally installed a 5K and took it out and returned it. I recently bought an 8K Frigidaire window unit for the bedroom at home to keep from air conditioning the whole house when I don't need to, and discovered it is the same width as the 6K LG. It is slightly taller and deeper but those measurements don't matter as much and it will fit. If I had it to do over I would install the 8K in the Scamp.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:34 PM   #89
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Will, that's great news.

Some folks have had 12k btu window type units placed in their Snoozy trailers, in place of the original (5k btu?) AC, and they work great. I was in one, it was upper 90s outside, the AC had been running about 20 minutes (prior to my arrival to see the trailer) and the inside felt like mid 70s. Bigger is better with AC.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:58 PM   #90
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Do you have to "charge" the split unit after it's installed?? Sounds good especially for the price and weight....since you cant have a roof top. You may have in a previous post...but can you post a link to that unit. I may have other ideas for it...home use.
The A/C comes with the charge correct for a 25' lineset. You do have to know a thing or two about A/C and have at least a vacuum pump to evacuate the lined and inside unit and test the system for leaks.
It is not really a Do it yourself deal for the home handy man, but there a lot of guys and gals that are pretty advanced or you might have a HVAC buddy who can help.
I will finish connecting and run the system after I have completed welding in the support structure on the tongue. I think I need to do that and figure out the mounting of the propane tank so I can finish welding, priming and painting the tongue.
I am also kinda stymied on the final paint job since the A/C will make painting the nose harder and I need to figure a way to swing it out of the way for painting. I would have to have to break the system later.
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