Allure floor by trafficmaster - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-04-2013, 11:42 PM   #41
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
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Dennis, I messed up earlier -- what color did you guys decide on? Have you used the regular or the ultra? What are your thoughts on either?
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:54 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Steve and Rosemary View Post
So now we really have to figure out how to get the carpet in a Scamp up! I still like the idea of the allure but only because I like how good it looks. It seems like you guys like the ultra, right? It seems kind of expensive though. My husband said oak flooring was on sale for 2 dollars and change per sqft. Would that work? Too heavy? Too stiff? Just another wrench to throw into the mix since I've actually done oak floors before.
Sean, did you have to put a subfloor down or was it not that sensitive to imperfections?
Oh, and I like that durban color. Did they make you buy the samples?
I didn't put in a subfloor. I don't think you have to. it'll float above some imperfections. I did do some leveling in some spots. Each application I think is different with these trailers so you'll have to see how it does for you. the nice thing about the ultra is that it snaps together and you can unsnap it pretty easy too. So if you put it down and then try walking on it and see how it does, you can pull it back up if you don't cap or seal around the edges until after you've got it set the way you want. I didn't have to pay for the samples, they just had probably 2-3inch squares already cut sitting there even for the ones that were special order.

It is a bit expensive. If I was doing it based on cost I'd probably have done just a simple vinyl floor. However, one of the reasons I bought the camper was for getting the kids and wife out camping more. It's a bit easier than packing the tent and gear. (I can leave the trailer packed ready to go any moment; just add, family, food, and clothes.) For that reason, I needed to satisfy my wife too and she really liked the look and feel of the the floor so I think the extra expense was worth the easy of install, look, feel, and happy wife for me.
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Old 07-17-2015, 01:14 PM   #43
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I just put in some country pine allure in my scamp 13 also.


Brilliant product for $42
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:59 AM   #44
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That looks great! What do you think of the Allure as a product? Was it easy to install? Did you use a subfloor?

We took out the carpet last year and wanted to take her out so my husband just sanded and painted it. We like the result so much, we're going to leave it as-is for awhile. Still -- when we're "over" the paint, I think Allure will be the way we go. Just have to pick a color!
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:59 AM   #45
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Looks like it will be a super durable option and was easy to install. Took longer to tear the carpet and scrape leftover spots then to lay the allure. No subfloor. The stripped wood floor in the scamp was perfect though.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:05 PM   #46
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Name: Teresa
Trailer: Boler
Indiana
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Installing over fiberglass floor?

Hi, my 1974 Boler 13 has the fiberglass floor. Anyone have experience using Allure on this typed of Boler floor? I like the idea of the floating floor since my fiberglass floor is in good shape- I would prefer not to cover it with something sticky like the vinyl stick on planks. However, I see some call outs that variations in floor will show through the vinyl planks eventually. Would this include show the pebble in the texturized fiberglass floor?

Also not sure what to use on the rise where the dinette is? Any ideas to cover this part that would make for a relatively easy removal later on if needed?
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:30 PM   #47
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Name: Jann
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The pictures look great. I am so going to do this. I am gonna buy 2 boxes, and am thinking about laying it right on top of the carpet, that way I don't have to level it, seems easier.

Thanks for all the advice.
I would not lay it over carpet! I just had 300 sq ft of it laid in my house and had 600sq ft laid 2 years ago by a professional man. He would not think of laying it over carpet of any kind. It could get wet underneath and it would mold because the allure does not breath.
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Old 01-28-2017, 04:43 AM   #48
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Name: K C
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They make a fairly thin foam sheet product that is used under floating floors. Some brands of it have a reflective layer as part of the product. It it cushions, levels out small irregularities in the substrate surface, helps deaden sound and also adds some R value. It is sold right in the same aisle at Home Depot and Lowes as the plank flooring.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:08 AM   #49
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Yes, I agree, your foundation is the most important part of your floor, your house, anything. Carpet is not a foundation but a covering. I have installed the Allure in 4 trailers now and ll on the bare floor. Read the instructions.
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:52 AM   #50
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beautiful!! Thank you for posting a pic! We're in process of putting down the allure oak finish ourselves
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:06 PM   #51
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Name: Owen
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It has been eight years, (April 2009) since I put the light oak in my Dolphin. I laid it length-wise, over 1/4 inch underlay, and it shows no signs of deterioration. I didn't use the interlocking version, but the ones with the glue strips built in. No chipping, lifting, or scratches from dog claws. I'm happy!
I also have it in my bathroom at home and up the hall and through the kitchen and dining area. At home I used the darker hickory. Good Stuff!!
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:49 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
They make a fairly thin foam sheet product that is used under floating floors. Some brands of it have a reflective layer as part of the product. It it cushions, levels out small irregularities in the substrate surface, helps deaden sound and also adds some R value. It is sold right in the same aisle at Home Depot and Lowes as the plank flooring.
Guess they don't sell it around the flooring at the Home Depot stores in Colorado. Lowes sells plank flooring but it pops together and unpops easily. The Allure glues to itself and doesn't pop apart.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:31 AM   #53
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Name: Billy Sharpstick
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Oh, my scamp was glued like you wouldn't believe. . . .
I recently removed 50 year old linoleum tiles from our 90 year old pine floor. It was glued down with heavy black mastic glue that had hardened up to solid masses that had bonded to the wood. I tried everything, but the best solution was to heat up several square inches of area with a heat gun, then scrape with a carbide scraper, then sanded. I used Durhams Rockhard putty to fill and level termite galleries.
Another project was removing glued down flooring(Doxboard?) that was glued down to the slab. I squirted liquid paint stripper on small areas, then covered with aluminum foil to slow down the evaporation, then scraped off the sludge.
As for the flooring, I've used vinyl a couple times. I recommend click lock(NEVER GLUE!) at least 5mm or thicker.
I'm getting ready to refloor our Burro. 5mm or 7mm vinyl. Nothing else is truly waterproof. Home Depot's "Home Legend" has an underlayment built in. I like the wood look, but will probably go with tile appearance because they come in 12x24 pieces instead of 6" planks, less cracks for water seepage.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:41 AM   #54
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Name: Billy Sharpstick
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. . . Is Alurre less expensive and easier to install than vinyl sheeting (flooring) and what is the advantage. . . .
I never use any kind of adhesive, especially peel and stick. I used the Allure with peel and stick edges that glue to the next piece. It is very difficult. You have to place the next piece accurately. Once the exposed glue hits the bottom piece, it is almost impossible to correct placement. My kitchen shows that! One piece roll vinyl is cheaper, but it is only 1 to 2mm thick. Any lumps or gaps underneath will cause problems, and you will probably feel the flimsiness. I think cuttiing and fitting planks is easier than hoping to cut the huge vinyl sheet accurately, even if you can pull out the old floor in one piece.
I am probably going with 5mm to 7mm click-lock "tile" vinyl in 12 x 24" pieces, less potential for water leakage than 6" planks.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:07 PM   #55
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As for the flooring, I've used vinyl a couple times. I recommend click lock(NEVER GLUE!) at least 5mm or thicker.
For homes, we have started using a long of vinyl plank flooring. The stuff we use is 8-10mm thick. It is loose lay, so does not get glued down, nor does it click together. Contact adhesive is placed around the perimeter, and a few strips across large floors, then allowed to set be for the vinyl is laid down. The vinyl sticks to it, stopping it from shifting, but if ever needed you can easily pull a piece with a glass lifter should you ever have the need, like for replacement. This is thick tough stuff, and looks great. There have even been a few speck builders doing nicer homes using it throughout.

I actually do not like using click together flooring of any type, especially in the small confines our our trailers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpstick View Post
I never use any kind of adhesive, especially peel and stick. I used the Allure with peel and stick edges that glue to the next piece. It is very difficult. You have to place the next piece accurately. Once the exposed glue hits the bottom piece, it is almost impossible to correct placement. My kitchen shows that! One piece roll vinyl is cheaper, but it is only 1 to 2mm thick. Any lumps or gaps underneath will cause problems, and you will probably feel the flimsiness. I think cuttiing and fitting planks is easier than hoping to cut the huge vinyl sheet accurately, even if you can pull out the old floor in one piece.
I am probably going with 5mm to 7mm click-lock "tile" vinyl in 12 x 24" pieces, less potential for water leakage than 6" planks.
I have used the Allure flooring in two trailers in the last year, one last spring using the 12x24 tiles, and the latest last weekend using the 6" plank. With proper care, there is absolutely no reason to not get a seamless install. The seams are WAY tighter than any click type flooring, and it is real easy to install in the small space of a trailer, with all its angles and such.

Here is a pic of the install so far. I just need to get a nosing, caulk around the edge, and it is done.

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