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Old 05-08-2025, 01:56 AM   #1
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Name: David
Trailer: 2002 16 Scamp
Oregon
Posts: 1
Another Scamp Subfloor!

Hi!
I’ve already learned so much about scamp restores through the years of threads here, so thank you!

My wife and I picked up a 2001 16 scamp here in Oregon. It had clearly been outside in the weather for years uncovered. Pretty rough shape, all the rivets were pretty much leaking, windows full of debris, fridge vent cracked and leaking. All that to say I started pulling everything out to get a better scope on possible water damage. So far I’ve discovered significant rot along drivers side rear, about 2ft worth with some spots bad enough to shove a screw driver through to the underside. Found some rot under the water heater. And under the fridge.

At this point I started pulling the water lines, gas and electrical to get a better view and see if it’s possible to repair the rot by impregnating it with epoxy, I don’t think I’m going that route anymore since the top was painted white and is not allowing moisture to dry out of the rotted sections. They are all reading over 35% moisture content with fans and dehumidifiers running for several days.

So here is where I’m at, I’d like to just replace the subfloor with plywood that’s glassed on bottom, edges and at least the top several inches from the outside edge. I would cut the top tab and try to leave the bottom tab attached.

My question to you all is, what fiberglass mat/cloth are you using for tabbing? I was thinking a 4” wide 1708 Biaxial Fiberglass Mat for the top tabbing. And using west system’s 105/206 epoxy. And adding 406 to make a thick epoxy for bottom tab to lay the plywood in. My profession is custom woodworking so I’m pretty familiar with epoxy and feel relatively confident in glassing but would love advice!

Are you guys doing one glass layer only, or multiple? My shell is sitting on the frame front and back, would it be foolish to do one section at a time (back dinette first, left or right right sides after) I imagine it would make it likely impossible to pull the shell a 1/8”-1/4” off the frame doing it this way?

Thanks in advance
David
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Old 05-11-2025, 01:18 PM   #2
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 2,016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjamesi View Post
Hi!
I’ve already learned so much about scamp restores through the years of threads here, so thank you!

My question to you all is, what fiberglass mat/cloth are you using for tabbing? I was thinking a 4” wide 1708 Biaxial Fiberglass Mat for the top tabbing. And using west system’s 105/206 epoxy. And adding 406 to make a thick epoxy for bottom tab to lay the plywood in. My profession is custom woodworking so I’m pretty familiar with epoxy and feel relatively confident in glassing but would love advice!

Are you guys doing one glass layer only, or multiple? My shell is sitting on the frame front and back, would it be foolish to do one section at a time (back dinette first, left or right right sides after) I imagine it would make it likely impossible to pull the shell a 1/8”-1/4” off the frame doing it this way?

Thanks in advance
David
If you can get to the Scamp rally. stop by and see me at site V164 (N/W corner) and we can go over and talk to the Jeff guy. He did a floor repair with marine plywood and all of the fiberglass work to match. He will be happy to tell you his story. I think his was back only. The shell touched the frame on my 2017 back and front both.
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Old 05-20-2025, 04:28 PM   #3
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 8
West Systems is like 2x the price of the generic epoxy on ebay. Same stuff.
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Old 05-21-2025, 12:19 PM   #4
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Name: Carl
Trailer: LiL Hauley
Syracuse, NY
Posts: 675
I have great results using Total Boat epoxy and polyester resins on my projects. Their prices seem good. Check out Boat works today website for tutorial videos.
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