Anyone with a door that won’t open or close?

[MJo]

I just picked up my Scamp on Monday, drove it back to Massachusetts and couldn’t open the door, so finally a husky builder’s son from next door came and opened it. Then went inside, looked around, read all the literature and went outside and couldn’t close the door. Finally got the door closed, but today I can’t open it again. Anyone have a solution? I’m on the verge of giving up and seeing if I can sell it. of course, even that is hard to do if the potential buyer can’t go inside. STUCK !!!!
This is a 2020 Scamp 13ft with a bathroom. I’m sure I will like it if I can get inside.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by MJo

I just picked up my Scamp on Monday, drove it back to Massachusetts and couldn’t open the door, so finally a husky builder’s son from next door came and opened it. Then went inside, looked around, read all the literature and went outside and couldn’t close the door. Finally got the door closed, but today I can’t open it again. Anyone have a solution? I’m on the verge of giving up and seeing if I can sell it. of course, even that is hard to do if the potential buyer can’t go inside. STUCK !!!!
This is a 2020 Scamp 13ft with a bathroom. I’m sure I will like it if I can get inside.

Call Scamp for a new lock. In the meantime, if you unscrew the hinges you can remove the door.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by MJo

I’m sure I will like it if I can get inside.

Lean your shoulder into the latch side of the door to compress the gasket, then open the latch.

[jimiller5]

Try pressing on the side of the camper next to the lock.

[Jon in AZ]

Agree with advice given. The door seal is the most likely culprit, especially since the problem seems intermittent. The seal causes the latch tongue to bind, and the temporary solution is to push or pull firmly to compress the seal, then pull the paddle to retract the tongue. It will improve with time and use.

If that fails to solve the problem, then the door latch itself may be defective. I’ve heard of a few bad ones before. Contact Scamp for a replacement, or if you’re in a hurry, they’re available at any RV parts store or online.

Imprecise door fit is one of the quirks of the traditional curved door. The old, thinner seal allowed some air and water entry, but the new, thicker seal makes the door harder to open and close. As buyer expectations have risen, complaints mounted and led to the transition to a flat door next year. You have the last of an era! With a little patience and fiddling, you will get it to work reliably. Don’t give up!

[MJo]

Everybody’s advice well taken. Part of the problem is that I don’t have enough bulk to give the door a good push, the lock mechanism is fine, it’s the foam seal on the door, being new, it probably isn’t compressing like it will in time. And I can’t give it a good push because I have a shoulder replacement on that side, so I just have to be patient and wait for the builder’s son, who has plenty of bulk, to come work Tues. I have no complaints otherwise, the Scamp is just as pictured and will be perfect once I can take it on the road. thanks to all

[herons]

Yay! Another Scamp in Massachusetts! Western Mass. or eastern side?

[gordon2]

With the old style door the "new seal" problem was sometimes addressed by adding spacer washers on the latch hardware mounting. That allowed the door to close easier and then when the seal compressed in a few months and the seal was no longer so tight, the washers could be removed to get a good seal with a door that was not too hard to close.

But I dont know if that would work with the new door.

[MJo]

I’m in Falmouth, MA. I think the door situation will be taken care of. I have a son coming home soon and I’m the meantime, a hefty builders son is helpful. I regret I flew off the handle, you really get your moneys worth in a Scamp, so many features are standard like the auto braking if it becomes detached. People should really make the trip up to the factory, with today’s highways, it’s so easy.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by MJo

... so many features are standard like the auto braking if it becomes detached....

Does this mean that Scamp is actually including a breakaway switch for the brakes? If so, this is the first time I have heard of that being a standard feature, or even an option. My 2015 model sure did not have that.

[MJo]

The breakaway switch was just added, I have it on my October 2020 Scamp. They have also added a rear camera to the options list.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Does this mean that Scamp is actually including a breakaway switch for the brakes? If so, this is the first time I have heard of that being a standard feature, or even an option. My 2015 model sure did not have that.

really? I thought any trailer with electric brakes *had* to have a break-away switch?? my 2008 Casita 16 sure did. So did my early 90's Starcrafter tent trailer.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by MJo

The breakaway switch was just added, I have it on my October 2020 Scamp. ..

But, I'll wager they still use the frame for electrical ground for the brakes. Thats a common point of failure after some years of corrosion.

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

really? I thought any trailer with electric brakes *had* to have a break-away switch?? my 2008 Casita 16 sure did. So did my early 90's Starcrafter tent trailer.

Laws vary by jurisdiction. Maybe the law in Minnesota has changed, or maybe Evelands just decided its a good idea to include a break-away switch.

[Egg White]

Originally Posted by MJo

Part of the problem is that I don’t have enough bulk to give the door a good push

MJo, had to smile at that statement coming from you.

I have a newer model 16’ Casita, which also has the curved door. The advice given above is how we have typically gotten the door open. It appears to be exacerbated by rough roads. There have been a few nervous moments when stopping for a potty break and having to fight the door.

I have taken to traveling with a window unlocked, just in case we ever can’t get the door open. At least we would not have to damage the door or call a locksmith.

Below are a few things I have found that may also help.

1. Check that the bolts attaching the hinges to the door and to the body of the trailer are tight. Mine were loose after the 500 mile trip from the factory. Can’t say whether Casita did not tighten them or they loosened on the rough Louisiana roads home.

2. There are six mounting bolts that attach my latch to the door. On the advice of Casita, the latch can be adjusted by loosening and tightening various bolts. This is a trial and error process. Try small adjustments to just a couple bolts at a time to see if you are helping or hurting. For example, assuming all the mounting bolts are tight, try loosening the two bolts closest to the latch 1/2 turn each, then try closing and opening the door. I recommend having someone on each side of the door while you are experimenting because some adjustments may make it harder to open.

3. I also found there were times that the latch’s curved striker appeared to hang up on the striker plate and not fully retract. I found that rounding the sharp point on the end of the striker with a file and “polishing” the curved surface of the striker with some fine sandpaper helped. I also applied some dry lube to a paper towel and worked it into the laminated plates of the striker.

For me, there was no magic bullet fix. All these things were incremental improvements that have helped make it easier to open. It does not latch and unlatch like a door at home. You have to firmly slam the door to compress the seal and there is still a pronounced clunk when the latch releases.

Hope something here can help your situation.

Philip

[MJo]

Thank you, I’ll try your suggestions. Coming home today from off Cape, there were many RV trailers coming my way, going home after the long weekend, no Scamps. I had the urge to go get mine so I could join the parade.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Laws vary by jurisdiction. Maybe the law in Minnesota has changed, or maybe Evelands just decided its a good idea to include a break-away switch.

true that, per https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/

states requiring breakaway switches on trailers...

• Alaska (above 5000 lbs)
• Arkansas (above 3000 lbs)
• Colorado (above 3000 lbs)
• DC (above 3000 lbs)
• Idaho (above 1500 lbs)
• Illinois (above 5000 lbs)
• Maryland (above 3000 lbs)
• Minnesota (above 6000 lbs)
• Mississippi
• Nebraska (above 6500 lbs)
• Nevada (above 3000 lbs)
• New Jersey (above 3000 lbs or 40% of the tow vehicle GVWR)
• North Dakota
• Pennsylvania (above 3000 lbs)
• Rhode Island (above 4000 lbs)
• Tennessee (above 3000 lbs)
• Vermont (above 3000 lbs)
• West Virginia (above 3000 lbs)

now, that web page's entry on California did NOT mention a breakaway, but I'm almost positive they are required here.

[MJo]

The Scamp is 1300-1550 lbs., depending on where you look.

[John in Santa Cruz]

for legal purposes, what counts is its rated GWR, which is axle plus tongue weight at maximum load.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

really? I thought any trailer with electric brakes *had* to have a break-away switch?? my 2008 Casita 16 sure did. So did my early 90's Starcrafter tent trailer.

When I placed the order for my 2017 they would not install the switch at ANY price.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

When I placed the order for my 2017 they would not install the switch at ANY price.

My 2015 came with no break-away switch also, but I would not offer ANY price since I could install one, and do it better than they would have, for about $35.
But how can you be sure about the "any price" part? Did you offer them a million dollars for one?