Automatic cutoff relay for refrig. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-17-2020, 02:11 PM   #21
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 210
Thank you everyone

Thanks to all for all the advise. I appreciate it, and will also give it a second look to possibly adding the device to stop the possible drain on my TV battery. Jack
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Old 04-18-2020, 07:47 AM   #22
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
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Hi Jack, Dave in Middleborough here (2 inches snow this morning!) Here is how I addressed the fridge issue; 1st, disconnected the scamp feed to the fridge near the fridge control location. We will never run the fridge off the house battery. Connected an 8 ga wire to the fridge and ran it to the male side of the 7 pin hot 12v location. Connected an 8 ga line from the female side (same location) to under the hood near the TV battery, to a battery isolator from West Marine in Hyannis which was then connected directly to the battery. The isolator turns on a few seconds after senseing 13 volts, and off when it drops below. Has no quiessent current draw when off. 8 ga wire insured we'd be able to draw the 10 amps required with minimal voltage drop over that distance. Also beefed up the ground wireing too. We charge the house battery through another dedicated circuit through an Anderson plug at the receiver on the Outback. > Start the car, fridge turns on. Stop the car, it turns off....Easy Peazy ...
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Old 04-18-2020, 08:03 AM   #23
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
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An alternate method is possible if you find your existing 7 pin factory wiring set up is providing enough amperage to cool the fridge while driving (many have had problems with that) is to install the isolator in line with the Scamp feed to the fridge near the fridge control box. As long as it senses over 13 volts it will turn on and then off again if below - when your alternator stops charging. I have a thread I think that details our setup that you can dig for. Search under threads started by ACHINBAC......
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Old 04-18-2020, 08:15 AM   #24
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
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Regarding the 2nd alternative > Jon V pointed out correctly that if there is sufficient voltage drop over the minimally gauged factory wiring that locating the isolator near the fridge could result in it not seeing 13 volts ever - that would also be further compromised if the house battery is not fully charged as additional amperage draw would be added to the fridge draw. It would be very easy to mock up though and test the second alternative. 15 minutes of wiring.
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Old 04-18-2020, 08:20 AM   #25
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
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Thumbs up

Thanks Dave, for the food for thought.


Jack
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Old 04-18-2020, 09:13 AM   #26
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
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Jack - I'll be working on the house next to the Wequasset Inn in Chatham for the next month or so while the owner is in Florida. I work alone, so no exposure. If you run into any snags I can always swing by on the way home for advice. You are also welcome to see the work done on our Scamp in Middleborough. Good luck on your project - our set up is passive, hands off, and has done exactly what you require for the last 3 years.
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Old 04-18-2020, 09:24 AM   #27
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Name: Jack
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Thanks Dave, I'll keep that in mind.
Jack
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Old 04-22-2020, 12:37 PM   #28
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Name: Nicolas
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Almonte, Ontario
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If you are running a 7-pin hook-up, the power lead should already be linked into a power coil relay in the engine compartment that automatically shuts off the power when the engine is turned off. If not, this is a simple install that can be done by yourself if so adept or by a mechanic.
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Old 04-22-2020, 04:06 PM   #29
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Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolas View Post
If you are running a 7-pin hook-up, the power lead should already be linked into a power coil relay in the engine compartment that automatically shuts off the power when the engine is turned off.
Unfortunately this is not always true. For example, the power line in the factory installed 7 pin connector of Mercedes-Benz Sprinter vans is always hot.
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Old 04-22-2020, 04:55 PM   #30
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
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Jack, this is the isolator I referred to. Sometimes called a combiner. Way cheaper @ Defender Marine in RI, than West Marine in Hyannis.... Very simple install; One connection to the TV batt positive terminal, one to the negative, and a feed back to the 7 pin ( that I snaked through the undercarriage). As a previous poster pointed out, it is possible your particular TV disables the 7 pin 12 volt output a few minutes after turning off your ignition, or immediately. All you need is a voltmeter to test that function. My work truck shuts all systems down after 10 minutes after ignition off.....
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