Batteries draining when in storage - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-04-2017, 08:57 AM   #21
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Very simple when you're storing the RV for months without any use:

Disconnect the battery from the RV (switch or remove cable if you wish)
Connect a simple "Battery Tender" to it and forget it.

With this, your battery WILL stay fresh, charged and ready to go and will last MUCH longer. I ruined several batteries in my truck and garaged Corolla because of NOT keeping a smart charger on them while in storage. Finally, Batteries Plus told me, if the battery is not going to be in use (like driving every day), keep a smart charger on it...not the off-the-shelf quick 12v chargers you buy. They will FRY the battery. Get a Battery Tender OR Battery Minder style charger. The Battery Minder has a model that can actually "desulfate" older batteries.
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Very simple when you're storing the RV for months without any use:

Disconnect the battery from the RV (switch or remove cable if you wish)
Connect a simple "Battery Tender" to it and forget it.

With this, your battery WILL stay fresh, charged and ready to go and will last MUCH longer. I ruined several batteries in my truck and garaged Corolla because of NOT keeping a smart charger on them while in storage. Finally, Batteries Plus told me, if the battery is not going to be in use (like driving every day), keep a smart charger on it...not the off-the-shelf quick 12v chargers you buy. They will FRY the battery. Get a Battery Tender OR Battery Minder style charger. The Battery Minder has a model that can actually "desulfate" older batteries.
I use a Battery Minder anytime the trailer is sitting at home. I don't bother to remove the battery. I would prefer that the propane detector be powered 24/7. And it's extra work for little if any benefit.
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:14 AM   #23
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Name: Darral
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I dont either Byron. Neither do I disconnect it. The only thing my battery is connected to is the converter. I asked Progressive about leaving the battery connected to the Scamp and they said an external charger like that wouldnt hurt the converter.... I do have a small voltage checker that's plugged into my 12v outlet in the Scamp. I've ran this setup several years now with no problems. I'm still running the original battery that came with my Scamp in 2010. But you know me, I dont boondock much and require extensive use of it.

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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I use a Battery Minder anytime the trailer is sitting at home. I don't bother to remove the battery. I would prefer that the propane detector be powered 24/7. And it's extra work for little if any benefit.
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:52 AM   #24
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Name: Joe
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Sandy.

The main circuit breaker is for 120 volt AC only.

Little House customs sells a battery disconnect switch kit mainly for Casita trailers but should work with about any trailer.
https://littlehousecustoms.com/store.html#elec
(scroll down a bit)
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Old 09-04-2017, 11:02 AM   #25
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Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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Battery disconnect switches can be bought at an auto parts store or online, like Amazon or eBay. I use the Cole Hersee brand on some of my equipment, but the ones I use are rated for higher amps than what is needed for a trailer. There are some that attach directly to the battery post.
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Old 09-04-2017, 11:35 AM   #26
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Over time batteries will discharge. The proper term is "self discharge" It takes a while but will always happen. Disconnect switch or cable disconnect will not prevent self discharge.
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Old 09-04-2017, 11:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I dont either Byron. Neither do I disconnect it. The only thing my battery is connected to is the converter. I asked Progressive about leaving the battery connected to the Scamp and they said an external charger like that wouldnt hurt the converter.... I do have a small voltage checker that's plugged into my 12v outlet in the Scamp. I've ran this setup several years now with no problems. I'm still running the original battery that came with my Scamp in 2010. But you know me, I dont boondock much and require extensive use of it.
I do things about the same except I never camp with hookups so I rely on my battery for lights and the furnace I do camp in the cold. I turned the converter off, I discovered that the original American converter would boil the battery out if left on for a couple months. Because the battery box doesn't have a lot of good circulation the fuse holder and fuse go corroded to the point my furnace wouldn't run on battery. I figured I didn't need the converter since I had the Battery Minder and at home was the only time on power, primarily to run the fridge.
I have a 65 Watt solar panel to charge the battery while camping and connected a home made pigtail to the trailer battery and to my Ham Radio battery that connects to the solar panel and the Battery Minder. Makes it all easy and the truck charges when traveling. Works good for me.
I also think my system work good for non-boondockers too, but what ever works for you.
Storage in storage lot is a different matter since most around here don't have power it might be best to remove the battery for several reasons and put it on something like a Battery Minder at home.
One of the other reasons for removing the battery is battery theft.
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Old 09-04-2017, 12:05 PM   #28
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I understand that batteries normally discharge at the rate of about 10% per month during non use, but mine are down to nothing in 2 weeks and don't charge when connected to shore power. I'm bringing it to an RV repair shop next week.
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I do things about the same except I never camp with hookups so I rely on my battery for lights and the furnace I do camp in the cold. I turned the converter off, I discovered that the original American converter would boil the battery out if left on for a couple months. Because the battery box doesn't have a lot of good circulation the fuse holder and fuse go corroded to the point my furnace wouldn't run on battery. I figured I didn't need the converter since I had the Battery Minder and at home was the only time on power, primarily to run the fridge.
I have a 65 Watt solar panel to charge the battery while camping and connected a home made pigtail to the trailer battery and to my Ham Radio battery that connects to the solar panel and the Battery Minder. Makes it all easy and the truck charges when traveling. Works good for me.
I also think my system work good for non-boondockers too, but what ever works for you.
Storage in storage lot is a different matter since most around here don't have power it might be best to remove the battery for several reasons and put it on something like a Battery Minder at home.
One of the other reasons for removing the battery is battery theft.
That's the anticipated storage situation - no shore power - and since I have a 2014 Parkliner, and it seems that the propane tanks have to be removed to access the battery cover, theft seems a minor concern; thieves are often unwilling to do that much work, and if so, the whole trailer is at risk.

I was just hoping to come up with something that wouldn't involve me doing that work every time I put the trailer in the lot for more than a few days.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:04 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Battery disconnect switches can be bought at an auto parts store or online, like Amazon or eBay. I use the Cole Hersee brand on some of my equipment, but the ones I use are rated for higher amps than what is needed for a trailer. There are some that attach directly to the battery post.
So if the disconnect is directly on the post, and the post is on the other side of a battery cover that can't be opened until the propane tanks are removed from the tongue, it sounds like it may be just as well to remove the batteries and take them home. Once I've done that much, may as well optimize that battery life.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:17 PM   #31
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Name: Darral
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I have NEVER removed my battery since it/Scamp was new in 2010. The Battery Tenders/Minders come with connectors that go on the battery. I have my connector where I can access it from the outside of the battery box. (the connector has its own 'cap'). I plug it in when I park and forget it until I get ready to go camping. I believe in keeping it simple. I dont worry about battery theft at all where I live. If they get this one, they're getting an OLD one- luck to'm.

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That's the anticipated storage situation - no shore power - and since I have a 2014 Parkliner, and it seems that the propane tanks have to be removed to access the battery cover, theft seems a minor concern; thieves are often unwilling to do that much work, and if so, the whole trailer is at risk.

I was just hoping to come up with something that wouldn't involve me doing that work every time I put the trailer in the lot for more than a few days.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:31 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Sandy54 View Post
I have a Parkliner that I got new in January 2017. I have it in storage between trips and the batteries are discharging at an alarming rate. I take the Parkliner out camping for a few days every month and last had it out 2 weeks ago. When I checked the batteries yesterday, they were below 5 volts. I had to take them out and bring them home to charge them up. I don't have anything running except the battery combo monitor when it's in storage (and I assume the smoke alarm and CO2 monitor are also on).



What could be draining my batteries? I have two 12 V batteries.

Would this help?

Battery Tender 021-1163 5W Solar Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q83TGO..._rSVRzbQZMDS75
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:22 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I have NEVER removed my battery since it/Scamp was new in 2010. The Battery Tenders/Minders come with connectors that go on the battery. I have my connector where I can access it from the outside of the battery box. (the connector has its own 'cap'). I plug it in when I park and forget it until I get ready to go camping. I believe in keeping it simple. I dont worry about battery theft at all where I live. If they get this one, they're getting an OLD one- luck to'm.
I guess I'm confused. The tenders/minders go on the battery and use no other power source? They aren't some sort of external charger? I seem to have misunderstood what they do. Perhaps even with the PL's "access" to the batteries, a tender/minder could be used in such a storage lot.
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:43 PM   #34
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Name: Darral
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Someone posted a solar version. This link shows the EXACT model I use on my Scamp and yes, it plugs into 120v. If your RV is far away from electricity, then you might be better off with the solar version Jackie posted. Either route, these are top of the line smart chargers. Mine came with a 5 yr warranty. That tells you something about that brand- Dellran (Battery Tender).

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...EFMFWGNQM645W5

Quote:
Originally Posted by FishingBob View Post
I guess I'm confused. The tenders/minders go on the battery and use no other power source? They aren't some sort of external charger? I seem to have misunderstood what they do. Perhaps even with the PL's "access" to the batteries, a tender/minder could be used in such a storage lot.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:47 PM   #35
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Parkliner 2014
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A solar unit might work (if the batteries were fully charged - I may have a problem there) but it seems it's intended to clip to the battery posts, so maybe back to the problem of the PL having a largely inaccessible bank. Any way to connect it to the 7-pin connector? 7 Pin Trailer Adapter | Go Power!
And would that work?
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:53 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by JackieLynn View Post
Would this help?

Battery Tender 021-1163 5W Solar Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q83TGO..._rSVRzbQZMDS75
I have a solar battery tender attached to the batteries when in storage. It doesn't help. Batteries still drain faster than they can charge.
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:17 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by FishingBob View Post
So if the disconnect is directly on the post, and the post is on the other side of a battery cover that can't be opened until the propane tanks are removed from the tongue, it sounds like it may be just as well to remove the batteries and take them home. Once I've done that much, may as well optimize that battery life.
Correct Bob, the type that mounts directly on the battery would be of no use to you, but a switch could be mounted anywhere near the battery in an accessible location. If you look at the one sold by Little House Customs you'll see how it works. They just took a standard disconnect switch, bent a bracket to mount it, and a couple wires to connect to the battery. Simple enough to do yourself.
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Old 09-06-2017, 03:55 PM   #38
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Parkliner 2014
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I have a solar battery tender attached to the batteries when in storage. It doesn't help. Batteries still drain faster than they can charge.
Sandy, how did you make the connection to the batteries? Is it possible your batteries were already damaged past the point of being able to be charged before you put on the tender? It would be nice to come up with a way around the PL battery access issue. Maybe something involving this?
7 Pin Trailer Adapter | Go Power!
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Old 09-06-2017, 04:16 PM   #39
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New York
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Get both parts of the Anderson plug, run wires off the battery to one end that is placed where you can get at it easily, other end you can connect to a battery charger, battery minder, or solar charger and plug it in when needed
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Old 09-06-2017, 04:22 PM   #40
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Sandy, how did you make the connection to the batteries? Is it possible your batteries were already damaged past the point of being able to be charged before you put on the tender? It would be nice to come up with a way around the PL battery access issue. Maybe something involving this?
7 Pin Trailer Adapter | Go Power!
Thanks for the information. My batteries are connected + to + and - to -. I have 2 batteries 12V deep cycle.
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