Battery won't charge on AC pedestal - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-06-2020, 04:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rlsooby View Post
The Battle Born was advertised as a "drop-in" replacement, so I still have the standard converter, although I'd like to get a lithium-ready converter eventually.

Well, the picture from my album doesn't want to display. Basically, the polarity fuses are 30A labeled Reverse Protection and Battery Fuses.

Would be interesting to see what your battery voltage is with and without the fuses in. I am suspecting that the battery is going to drop in voltage when the fuses are in. That would tell you that you either have a bad converter or have a load turned on that is an issue. The frig is a serious suspect. Anything else should generally be getting really hot.

I had my converter on my scamp go bad. It was a 15 amp. Used it to much. Replaced it with a 60 amp. But I do use it for my ham radios too.
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Old 05-06-2020, 04:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
OK, now that you have labeled them fuses I know what you are plugging & unplugging. ….
Thank you Jon. It will take me a little while to understand the system. I know I don't optimally charge the Battle Born, but it has served me well so far.
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Old 05-06-2020, 08:40 PM   #23
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Thank you Jon. It will take me a little while to understand the system. I know I don't optimally charge the Battle Born, but it has served me well so far.

Once you get it working it take some time and check out wha readings to expect. Then if you have a problem you will be ahead of the game.
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:08 PM   #24
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Trying to get converter out

I'm trying to get the converter out so I can look at the connections. I took out the screw at the bottom left, which looked like it would allow the converter tray to slide out. No go. Do you suspect I need to take all the screws out? Argh.
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Old 05-07-2020, 02:01 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Yup.. a multi-meter or volt meter is one of the most helpful things a camper owner can own. If you have a cigarette lighter style 12 VDC outlet and only have a volt meter that plugs into that, it still can tell you a lot. If the voltage when the tug is hooked up is over 13 AND IF ALSO the voltage when on shore power is less than 13, then I can almost promise that your converter is not working or it is shut off (check circuit beakers, etc), or it is otherwise disconnected (fuse blown). Now if it were a Scamp then a good bet would be that the converter plug into the 120 VAC had come out.
Or the converter breaker is turned off, or there's no converter, etc. etc.,
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Old 05-07-2020, 02:38 PM   #26
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I don't believe there is anything behind the converter that pulling it would find, and, depending on how Casita runs the 120V & 12V wiring, it may not be possible anyway. Hopefully there is a way to see behind it without pulling it.

Again, a useful measurement would be the battery terminals with either a disconnect switch open (if you have one) or with the reverse protection fuses pulled. If the battery voltage is 12.75 as your previous measurement suggests, it is in need of charging and, with the reverse protection fuses back in, may take awhile for the converter voltage to rise to its normal level. You may have nothing wrong, but a low battery.
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Old 05-07-2020, 02:54 PM   #27
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as Jon says i don't think there is anything behind there that you need to see, but if you want to get to the back. it will be easier to remove all the screws from the bench seat and slide the bench seat forward with converter installed. you should be able to check most connections right there.
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Old 05-07-2020, 10:38 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by rlsooby View Post
I'm trying to get the converter out so I can look at the connections. I took out the screw at the bottom left, which looked like it would allow the converter tray to slide out. No go. Do you suspect I need to take all the screws out? Argh.

Now you have a lot of fuses there. I would use a picture for a reference and then pull all but the one for the battery. Then check the voltage. Then put them back on a a time and check the voltage. That might tell you something interesting. I would also check the ground connections there. A lose bad ground screw could cause all of this.
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Old 05-08-2020, 04:54 AM   #29
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This may or may not have anything to do with your problem, But i check the 110 volt element in hot water hearer. I had a casita do some very odd stuff when one was bad,even when the breaker was turned off . my problem was blowing GFI. its worth a looking. i know in my case it was the last thing i checked.I thought with the water heater breaker off it was not possible but the ground is still connected and there was a fault there.
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Old 05-08-2020, 07:08 AM   #30
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I think we might be missing something here. Risooby said the battery charges fine from the tow vehicle but not from shore power. First check what loads are on or off when running from the TV as this could point to a load fault. If the load conditions are the same on TV and shore power then you most likely have a converter problem. A simple way to check if the converter is delivering current is to measure the battery voltage with the shore power unplugged then with the shore power plugged in. If the voltage goes up when shore power is plugged in it is delivering current, if the readings are the same you have a problem in the converter circuit. It may be the circuit protection device feeding the converter, the circuit protection device on the converter output or the converter may not like the LFP battery and went on a permanent vacation.

To check the converter input voltage, you will have to remove the cover over the AC circuit breakers. It looks like there are 2 screws holding it on. If you are not comfortable around electricity you may not want to do this. Regardless, be careful what you touch behind the panel and wear safety glasses. What you want to do is measure the voltage between neutral (which should be a big white wire connected to a terminal block, which will be exposed when you remove the panel) and the screw where the wire attaches to the converter circuit breaker. Make sure the trailer is plugged into shore power and turned on. **** MAKE SURE YOUR METER IS SET TO AT LEAST 200 VOLTS AC**** You should measure around 115 volts.

Next look for a fuse or circuit breaker on the output of the converter. Check to see if it is blown. I can't help you much here because I don't know how your trailer is wired.
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Old 05-08-2020, 11:11 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
I don't believe there is anything behind the converter that pulling it would find, and, depending on how Casita runs the 120V & 12V wiring, it may not be possible anyway. Hopefully there is a way to see behind it without pulling it.
I installed a larger access hatch to replace the small power cord hatch. I needed more access to the area behind the converter where I mounted my Progressive Industries EMS unit on my incoming shore power line. As Jon says, there really isn't much behind the converter, but it does make it accessible if you wanted to run some new wiring into the back of the converter housing. Adding a Marine style 30 Amp twist lock outlet, and a new female end on the remaining cord, makes hooking up shore power much easier now, and not having to fight getting it in and out of the small hatch is so much nicer. And no more "mouse door" where ants and vermin can crawl up your cord and get into the trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-Z.../dp/B007HRTSBG
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Old 05-08-2020, 03:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by CarlD View Post
I think we might be missing something here. Risooby said the battery charges fine from the tow vehicle but not from shore power. First check what loads are on or off when running from the TV as this could point to a load fault. If the load conditions are the same on TV and shore power then you most likely have a converter problem. A simple way to check if the converter is delivering current is to measure the battery voltage with the shore power unplugged then with the shore power plugged in. If the voltage goes up when shore power is plugged in it is delivering current, if the readings are the same you have a problem in the converter circuit. It may be the circuit protection device feeding the converter, the circuit protection device on the converter output or the converter may not like the LFP battery and went on a permanent vacation.

To check the converter input voltage, you will have to remove the cover over the AC circuit breakers. It looks like there are 2 screws holding it on. If you are not comfortable around electricity you may not want to do this. Regardless, be careful what you touch behind the panel and wear safety glasses. What you want to do is measure the voltage between neutral (which should be a big white wire connected to a terminal block, which will be exposed when you remove the panel) and the screw where the wire attaches to the converter circuit breaker. Make sure the trailer is plugged into shore power and turned on. **** MAKE SURE YOUR METER IS SET TO AT LEAST 200 VOLTS AC**** You should measure around 115 volts.

Next look for a fuse or circuit breaker on the output of the converter. Check to see if it is blown. I can't help you much here because I don't know how your trailer is wired.
Very odd. According to the polarity fuse test I described earlier, the converter checked out as good. When I did this test, I got 0V. On the attached picture, I measured between the big white wire at the top of the vertical bar and the converter screw, 3rd from left, which has two black wires crimped together (not easy to see). Of course, the breakers were turned on when I tested.
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Old 05-08-2020, 03:51 PM   #33
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Back of the converter

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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
… As Jon says, there really isn't much behind the converter, but it does make it accessible if you wanted to run some new wiring into the back of the converter housing. …
If I want to check whether the power supply coming into the unit is loose or whether the connections to the breakers are OK, wouldn't I want to get to the back of the converter?

I cant' find any explanation of how to do that. In blogs, people just say, "I pulled the converter." I will be relegated to start unscrewing every screw I see hoping I can get it out.
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Old 05-08-2020, 04:08 PM   #34
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Information?

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Originally Posted by rlsooby View Post
Very odd. According to the polarity fuse test I described earlier, the converter checked out as good. When I did this test, I got 0V. On the attached picture,
What is the brand and model of the converter? They all just put 120VAC in and get 12 VDC out. Input may be a smaller black and white pair and output a larger pair. Had any other changes been made, like battery removal.
Do you have any ham radio operators in the area that can help test it? we all use power supplies like this. (They are just in a nice box.)
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Old 05-08-2020, 04:30 PM   #35
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Very odd. According to the polarity fuse test I described earlier, the converter checked out as good. When I did this test, I got 0V. On the attached picture, I measured between the big white wire at the top of the vertical bar and the converter screw, 3rd from left, which has two black wires crimped together (not easy to see). Of course, the breakers were turned on when I tested.
Plug your trailer into shore power then put 1 lead of your tester set to AC volts on the neutral bar ( vertical bar with white wires and then put the other lead of your tester on the terminal screw on the bottom of the 30 amp breaker
That will tell you if you have power to the trailer
If meter reads 0 volts then test from the 30 amp breaker to the bus bar with the green wires to see if you lost the neutral
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Old 05-08-2020, 04:51 PM   #36
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Air conditioner is running

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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Plug your trailer into shore power then put 1 lead of your tester set to AC volts on the neutral bar ( vertical bar with white wires and then put the other lead of your tester on the terminal screw on the bottom of the 30 amp breaker
That will tell you if you have power to the trailer
If meter reads 0 volts then test from the 30 amp breaker to the bus bar with the green wires to see if you lost the neutral
This is a battery charging problem. But we still do not know if the converter is getting voltage in or out. This may be a Parallax 081-7155 but I'm not sure. If so I THINK the power in is a pig tail to the breaker, and the 12 volt out is a pair of large wires on the right. But I've already said more than I know.
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Old 05-08-2020, 04:53 PM   #37
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What is the brand and model of the converter? They all just put 120VAC in and get 12 VDC out. Input may be a smaller black and white pair and output a larger pair. Had any other changes been made, like battery removal.
Do you have any ham radio operators in the area that can help test it? we all use power supplies like this. (They are just in a nice box.)
It's a Parallax, pretty sure a 7155. I am the original owner, and the only thing I've done is swap out the lead acid for a lithium battery. Also, Little House Customs added an external outlet for a portable solar array, which I've never used because my rooftop panel provides plenty of power.

Surprised I don't know any ham radio operators, because I'm pretty nerdy (sorry). Also, I am not at home. I'm in the mountains of Arizona sitting out the pandemic.

I'll try some more tests tomorrow with your suggestion that I might look at a different pair of wires. Thanks for comment.
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Old 05-08-2020, 04:56 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Plug your trailer into shore power then put 1 lead of your tester set to AC volts on the neutral bar ( vertical bar with white wires and then put the other lead of your tester on the terminal screw on the bottom of the 30 amp breaker
That will tell you if you have power to the trailer
If meter reads 0 volts then test from the 30 amp breaker to the bus bar with the green wires to see if you lost the neutral
Thanks, I will try this test this weekend.
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Old 05-08-2020, 05:01 PM   #39
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There we go

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Originally Posted by rlsooby View Post
It's a Parallax, pretty sure a 7155. I am the original owner, and the only thing I've done is swap out the lead acid for a lithium battery. Also, Little House Customs added an external outlet for a portable solar array, which I've never used because my rooftop panel provides plenty of power.
Are you sure it worked after the solar was connected?

Just test 120AC into the converter (at the breaker if that's where you can get to it.) if good check for 12 volts out, (at the input to the fuse area?) if it's there it may be a fuse or wiring problem. I'd like to say that it is too new to fail, but I know better. Please let us know what you find, it's how we learn. Good luck!
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Old 05-08-2020, 05:10 PM   #40
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If it was me and i was unsure what wires to test. i would cover up solar panel or unhook it ) unhook battery and plug into shore power. if the lights and fantastic fan work then the converter is hooked up producing 12 volt power. if you turn on the 12 volt fridge and should really start to draw and converter fins will get warm shortly and fan should come on on the converter as it get warm.



If its working then I be looking for something thats drawing a lot of power that would keep the battery from charging first thing comes to mind is fridge stuck on 12 volt would draw 10-12 amps.
it is a possibility that there is something in the BMS system of battery. if the converter is working i would put a diffent battery in to see if you have the same issue. i assume you have the original laying around .




also a u tube simply test

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