Battery won't charge on AC pedestal - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-09-2020, 05:28 AM   #41
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Name: Carl
Trailer: LiL Hauley
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""Very odd. According to the polarity fuse test I described earlier, the converter checked out as good. When I did this test, I got 0V. On the attached picture, I measured between the big white wire at the top of the vertical bar and the converter screw, 3rd from left, which has two black wires crimped together (not easy to see). Of course, the breakers were turned on when I tested.""

Let me understand this. You have the trailer plugged in and power turned on, but measure 0 volts between the circuit breaker screw and the white wire? You may have a bad circuit breaker (They do fail). Do you have 115 Volts on the other circuit breaker screws? Make sure the meter is on Volts AC.
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Old 05-11-2020, 06:18 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by rlsooby View Post
The Battle Born was advertised as a "drop-in" replacement, so I still have the standard converter, although I'd like to get a lithium-ready converter eventually.
It is a "drop-in" replacement as far as physical space. Also most newer charging equipment at least has a setting for AGM batteries which have been around for several years now. If you have an older converter box you'll need to update it to at least one that has an AGM setting. If you have a newer box be sure it is set to AGM which will charge your Battle Born batteries fine.
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Old 05-11-2020, 06:39 AM   #43
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It is a "drop-in" replacement as far as physical space. Also most newer charging equipment at least has a setting for AGM batteries which have been around for several years now. If you have an older converter box you'll need to update it to at least one that has an AGM setting. If you have a newer box be sure it is set to AGM which will charge your Battle Born batteries fine.



Being he has a solar system instead of spending money on a new converter . cant he just turn the battery switch off while on shore power and let the solar charge the battery and the Converter run the RV?
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Old 05-11-2020, 06:51 AM   #44
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Being he has a solar system instead of spending money on a new converter . cant he just turn the battery switch off while on shore power and let the solar charge the battery and the Converter run the RV?
That would work too, provided he has his solar charger wired directly to the batteries and has his solar charger set to the correct battery profile.
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Old 05-11-2020, 08:17 AM   #45
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Name: Rita
Trailer: 2018 Casita SD; 2017 Toyota Highlander with tow package
Kansas
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Are you sure it worked after the solar was connected?

Just test 120AC into the converter (at the breaker if that's where you can get to it.) if good check for 12 volts out, (at the input to the fuse area?) if it's there it may be a fuse or wiring problem. I'd like to say that it is too new to fail, but I know better. Please let us know what you find, it's how we learn. Good luck!
Yes, it's been working for two years since I bought the trailer and immediately installed the solar and lithium battery.
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Old 05-11-2020, 08:18 AM   #46
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Name: Rita
Trailer: 2018 Casita SD; 2017 Toyota Highlander with tow package
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Originally Posted by CarlD View Post
""Very odd. According to the polarity fuse test I described earlier, the converter checked out as good. When I did this test, I got 0V. On the attached picture, I measured between the big white wire at the top of the vertical bar and the converter screw, 3rd from left, which has two black wires crimped together (not easy to see). Of course, the breakers were turned on when I tested.""

Let me understand this. You have the trailer plugged in and power turned on, but measure 0 volts between the circuit breaker screw and the white wire? You may have a bad circuit breaker (They do fail). Do you have 115 Volts on the other circuit breaker screws? Make sure the meter is on Volts AC.
I was wondering about the circuit breaker. It seems a bit loose, so that will be one of my avenues of investigation.
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Old 05-11-2020, 08:19 AM   #47
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Name: Rita
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Originally Posted by TTMartin View Post
It is a "drop-in" replacement as far as physical space. Also most newer charging equipment at least has a setting for AGM batteries which have been around for several years now. If you have an older converter box you'll need to update it to at least one that has an AGM setting. If you have a newer box be sure it is set to AGM which will charge your Battle Born batteries fine.
My charge controller has a lithium setting and has been working well for two years.
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Old 05-11-2020, 08:24 AM   #48
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Name: Rita
Trailer: 2018 Casita SD; 2017 Toyota Highlander with tow package
Kansas
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Investigation put on hold

Because I am very busy with work, I'm having difficulty concentrating on this project and finding time to pull things apart and do all the testing that needs to be done.

Therefore, I'm putting this project on hold. Usually, I am not plugged in to the electric grid, so I don't use the converter. I can get along well with just the solar (and car while I'm driving) charging the battery. While I'm hooked up, I can plug in to my AC outlets and not tax the battery much at all.

Thanks for everyone's help. When I can put some time into this project, I will be sure to report back and let you know what I found to be the problem.

Thanks again.
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