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01-19-2021, 10:23 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
California
Posts: 347
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Best chocks and advice for parking Scamp on hillside in windy area?
I often have to camp in areas where there are ridges, ravines and sometimes high winds. I have never had a problem, but I figure I don't want to learn the hard way and find my Scamp 13 in a ravine somewhere. So I thinking that chocks are like boat anchors, and I should get something really good and trustworthy for when I have to leave the Scamp unconnected from its tow vehicle (4R-4WD). Any advice is welcome? What are some really good chocks I could buy. What else can I do to insure my Scamp doesn't move in high winds (often 40 knots, occasionally up to 70 knots). Would love to get advice.
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01-19-2021, 10:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
Posts: 1,140
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For really heavy winds, tie downs would be the best option. The problem won't be the chocks, it will be the wheels slipping off whatever you use to level the trailer from side to side (boards, those Lego-like blocks, etc.). In a 70 knot gust to the side, your trailer will be pushed off.
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01-19-2021, 10:50 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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A BAL leveler is less likely to slip than blocks for side-to-side leveling. It’s a device the cradles and lifts the wheel. Also look for heavy rubber chocks, not the hard plastic kind. Once you put weight on the stabilizer jacks, it’ll be less likely to move. You could add a second set of stabilizers under the front of the cabin. Park nose into the wind when possible.
In extreme conditions, best to leave it hitched. (Plus all the above.)
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01-19-2021, 11:03 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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We bought a BAL leveler and added front stabilizers to our 2013 Casita
With the BAL and all 4 stabilizers deployed we had no issues with movement even in strong storm winds
If you are concerned about tipping , fill your onboard water tanks and use them as ballast .
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01-19-2021, 12:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 825
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I only park on reasonably level ground and always use a chock between the wheels on both sides. I also removed the wheel from the tongue jack. It doesn't take much of a grade for a detached trailer to move and once it starts to move its a lot of weight to stop. I've seen this happen a couple of times. If you pull the break away switch it will lock the wheels as long as the battery lasts.
Trailers have all the aerodynamics of a brick. A strong side wind will rock the unit or sometimes tip it over. The best thing to do in high wind is to attach the trailer to the tug and orient them towards the wind.
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01-19-2021, 01:41 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L
I only park on reasonably level ground and always use a chock between the wheels on both sides...
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Just to be clear: chocking between the wheels is only applicable to tandem axle trailers. The OP has a single axle Scamp. 13. For that the BAL is probably the best option. Here's a picture. You would use this on the low side and a pair of heavy rubber chocks on the high side.
In really bad conditions you can also dig in the wheel on the high side (where permitted in some backcountry locations). You'll still want the chocks. Be sure to fill the rut when you leave.
One additional tip when unhitching in windy and/or steep conditions: leave at least one safety chain attached until the trailer is leveled, chocked, and resting on stabilizers. Once it's completely set up, the risk of unwanted movement is slight, and you can then detach the safety chain(s).
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01-19-2021, 03:51 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Best Advice:
Join GoodSam and get an insurance policy on the camper.
Ordinary insurance companies might not give you a replacement policy.
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01-22-2021, 02:22 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 462
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Heavy-duty chocks are good advice. Plus face into the wind if possible.
It might also be worth running the emergency brake cable to a stake, like one of those dog leash corkscrews. That way if it does start to roll any distance, it'll stop itself as long as it's got battery. It's no substitute for heavy-duty chocks or even tie downs, but an extra layer of protection is always good.
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01-27-2021, 02:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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While Idon’t like doing it and it may not be possible in all situations, digging in the “high” side might be better than jacking up the low. Just fill it in when you leave.
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01-28-2021, 11:19 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
California
Posts: 347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf
While Idon’t like doing it and it may not be possible in all situations, digging in the “high” side might be better than jacking up the low. Just fill it in when you leave.
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cool idea. thanks.
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01-28-2021, 11:38 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zack sc
cool idea. thanks.
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Just be aware it's not allowed in most developed campgrounds and high use areas. It may be okay in some dispersed camping locations; local rules vary. Check before you dig.
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01-30-2021, 07:44 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: 1978 Earlton Ontario boler
Ontario
Posts: 1,506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring
Best Advice:
Join GoodSam and get an insurance policy on the camper.
Ordinary insurance companies might not give you a replacement policy.
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Co-op in Canada has trailer insurance for season available. Includes liability and optional repairs; it is affordable. They want to check condition and have appraisal value done with repair option. Will have to check on replacement? Replacing vintage unit and rebuild cost could add up. Have not tried GoodSam as we have our house, cars and bikes with Co-op. Will have to go online though and check them out. Thanks for info on GoodSam.
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