Bigfoot 17 signal light problem

[hoppy1962]

I have a 1990 Bigfoot 17. All the lights work when the Engine is running. But when only the ignition is on the Right signal light won't work. I figured it must be a loose wire. Anybody know where I should start looking?

[Rick M]

What type of vehicle are u using as your puller

[Bob Miller]

Does the TV's right turn signal work with the only the key ON, with and without the trailer connected?

[hoppy1962]

I'm using a Santa fe as a tow vehicle. Tow signals work perfect when runing or not. I put a tester into the 7pin connector. Perfect there too. So I figure it must be the trailer wiring. But where?

[hoppy1962]

TV signals work when connect to trailer and when not connected to trailer

[Bob Miller]

If you have power at the plug, but the light isn't flashing when only the key is ON, I suspect a bad connection anywhere in the circuit from the TV's junction box to the light that will respond when it sees the slighter higher voltage available when the engine is running vs when it's only on the TV's battery.


I have found several times that a 7 pin TV plug that would make a light tester flash, would not power the trailers lights until the 7 pin contacts were thoroughly cleaned.


I'd start by cleaning the contacts in the 7 pin connector and the checking the connections inside both sides of the connectors, then checking the connections to the TV's loom, then going back to the line in the BF.


As you have middle aged BF you may find a high resistance corroded connection almost anywhere.

[gcssr39]

Is the trailer new to you ? with your test meter, do u have power for tail/ brake/ and separate power wire to rt turn- left turn, if so u will need to put a adapter converter in to convert from tow vehicle to trailer, your tow is 3 lights park tail and turn l/r, your trailer is tail, and stop turn combined, stop on both sides, stop on one side and turn on the other as selected with your turn signal L/R hope this helps

[Jack L]

I've had similar situations where I "had power" as indicated by a test light but because of corroded connections I did not have a full 12 volts. If you are just using a test light you should use a meter to check actual voltage.

[Bob Miller]

You can still read "actual voltage" potential with a bad connection. As soon as some current is drawn the IR drop kills the voltage/current available.


LED Test lights are the real foolers because they draw so little that they don't replicate the actual circuit load.

[hoppy1962]

Replaced male and female 7 pin connectors. Same problem. Voltage reading at 7 pin connector reads 12v at signal lights it reads 9.7 on the left and 9.1 on the right without tv running.

[hoppy1962]

Changed incandescent Signal Bulbs to LED one's. It worked!!! Problem solved

[Bob Miller]

Problem Solved, but not Fixed.......


But you still have a problem in your wiring, it's just that the LED's draw so little current that you don't see the same voltage drops as you did with the original lamps. They may work for a short or a long time, but that problem (loose or corroded connection etc.) will still be there.


I'd suggest just planning on replacing the tail light wires in the not to distant future, before even the LED's no longer light.

[hoppy1962]

I guess I'll just measure the voltage each spring. If it drops to much I'll replace tail light wiring. the trailers 25 years old. I just want 5 to 10 more years out of it.

[Bob Miller]

What's more apt to happen is that the bad wire/connection will fail while you are driving.


You can buy quality flat four tail light wire by the foot and replace all of what you have in an hour or two. Along the way I'd bet that you find a bad ground anyway.