Biker: where should I mount my spare - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:08 PM   #1
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Name: Jonette
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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Boler: where should I mount my spare?

I'm hoping to get some advice, as I know it's important to consider weight distribution.

Just bought a Boler that has a plywood storage bin on the back, I think the tire would fit inside, but I need to put all the 6" fence post chunks in there while travelling, and I'm worried all that would be too much weight on the back?? That would be the easiest solution, and so the preferable one, but I have no idea if it's a safe solution. the Boler has been raised, so the attached stands don't reach the ground, I need those 6" blocks of wood. The only other stuff I'd put in there are tent pegs, maybe an axe. Is there a max weight guideline for the back bumper on these trailers?

The tongue has 2 propane tanks and the battery mounted on it. Would it be too much to mount the tire on the side of the tongue?

What about those undercarriage slide out mounts? Would that he the best solution, do you think? I had to rig my hitch up so that the bottom of the ball is 18" off the ground, would that be enough clearance for an undermount tire holder?

These are the only pictures I have now, but I can take some more the next time I head out to the RV storage facility.
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Old 05-21-2021, 05:21 AM   #2
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The bumper will likely support whatever you put in the plywood box unless you fill it with lead ingots! But you are correct about weight distribution. Inadequate tongue weight can result is trailer sway (tail-wagging), potentially deadly, which could flip the trailer and tow vehicle over when traveling down the road. You do not mention the tow vehicle. Car? SUV? Truck? Could you put the spare in the back of the tow vehicle? Or the chunks of wood if the spare will fit in the box? You could also have a (relatively inexpensive) anti-sway bar installed, but the best solution would be proper weight distribution inside the trailer if it starts to sway (sway generally occurs when a certain speed is reached. It may not sway at 50 kph but could be a major concern at 100 kph. You might want to replace the wood chunks with “Lego” blocks, they should be lighter in weight (available at Walmart). However, the best advice I would pass along is load the trailer as you would like to have it, and hook up and tow it gradually increasing speed. It may not sway. If you find that it does, immediate activate the trailer’s brakes if it has brakes. If not, step on the tow vehicle’s brake pedal and gradually slow down. Only then will you know if corrective actions are needed.
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Old 05-21-2021, 05:34 AM   #3
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Get longer jacks for the trailer. Is the frame new? If not, that box off the back is going to create issues. Myself, I would remove the box.

As far as weight, there is no substitute to taking your trailer to a scale, and getting real data. Everything else is just guessing.

Nice Boler!
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Old 05-21-2021, 10:53 AM   #4
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Trailer Weight

With your trailer loaded for camping, stop by a truck weight station and weight the camper un hitched. 10 to 12 percent of the weight of the camper must be on the hitch when connected to your tow vehicle. If the weight on the hitch is not enough the camper will sway at higher speeds.
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Old 05-21-2021, 12:17 PM   #5
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I like mounting it on the tongue.
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Old 05-21-2021, 01:28 PM   #6
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If it were mine first thing I'd do is lose the box on the back!
That boler is way to pretty to have that on the back. Imo.
Put the spare on the back under a nice cover and pickup a resin cargo container to throw in the tow.
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Old 05-21-2021, 01:54 PM   #7
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re: blocks for raising the jacks, get a couple stacks of plastic 'lego blocks', I like the Tri-Lynx brand...
https://smile.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00...dp/B0028PJ10K/
also get a set of the 'caps', one cap per possible stack you might need, this makes a even surface for the leveler jack, or the nose jack, or whatever.

these are FAR lighter than anything wood, and won't give you splinters the tri-lynx blocks lock together nicely and are strong and stable. the cheaper yellow Camco style blocks are OK but dont' work as well as the TriLynx.
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Old 05-21-2021, 02:08 PM   #8
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Fred, you're absolutely right, that box is ugly.

But its practical....there's so little storage in these trailers, so I'm kinda torn. For safety reasons, I wouldn't hesitate to take it off, but if it's ok if I don't overload it.....well I think id sure like that extra storage.

I think I'd best load all my gear up (probably way too much stuff), pare it down some, and get it weighed, go from there, like everyone says. Maybe if find I don't need that box afterall. Anyone here happen to be from Edmonton Alberta and know where I can do this??

I'm actually not sure what I'm towing with yet, was gonna be my ford ranger but my neighbor crashed into it a couple weeks ago and I think it might be totalled. Having issues with my insurance at the mo, and don't know what's happening yet. He crashed into my open door 2 hours after I put road privileges back on ( specifically so I could pick up the boler the next day), after helping me unload a piece of furniture off the back....he totally knew my truck was parked there, I told him to wait before he backed out cos I was gonna move my truck over....I barely made it into the cab before he crashed into my door and nearly tore it off. Apparently I'm 50% at fault cos i opened my door. Broker confirmed full coverage 2 hours before it happened, underwriter says it wasn't processed, so I'm......kinda sorta really effen stressed about it, still don't know what's going on.

I towed it home with my Jeep Liberty, might have to continue using that, just not sure yet. I'd prefer to use the truck for camping, but maybe I don't have a truck anymore.

I should not tell my life sagas on message boards...but I've found strangers to be much kinder and far more reasonable than neighbors, in recent years.
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Old 05-21-2021, 02:19 PM   #9
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Hey John, thank you....I've got those and caps in my Amazon cart now...yeah, way better than the wood blocks!

I did happen to stumble on a really cool jack a couple years ago at a nearby garage sale while I was walking my dog. Didn't have a trailer then, but I had the foresight to grab it at $40. It's called a bal light trailer tire leveler....I looked on Amazon when I got home and they were priced at $150, I think. Looks like they're no longer available. Dunno, maybe they're no good?
I've been dreaming of camping for so many years now.....I think it will be another year before I'm able, can't really take my 86 year old mom with me
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Old 05-21-2021, 02:32 PM   #10
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re box and weight, you want to watch your tongue weight especially. too much weight on that rear end, and the tongue becomes very light, which makes the trailer less stable at higher speeds.
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Old 05-21-2021, 02:48 PM   #11
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Ok...so to determine the hitch weight.....I would weigh the full trailer, the pull forward do the hitch I'd off the scale, weigh again and subtract the difference? Is that how you would do it?

Is there such a thing as too much tongue weight? Still wondering if I could mount the spare on the hitch with the propane and battery....maybe that won't even all fit anyway...unless I get a mount like the one in David's picture above...never seen that before, David - is it a custom made mount?
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Old 05-21-2021, 03:05 PM   #12
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you can do it two ways.

1) use a tongue scale

or

2) using a CAT style truck scale, get weight for your vehicle with the trailer hitched but trailer axles off the scale, then get weight for your vehicle without the trailer, and subtract the 2nd from the first.

on one pass through a CAT scale, you usually get 3 weights...

A1) vehicle front axle only
B1) vehicle front + rear axles (total vehicle weight)
C1) vehicle front + rear + trailer axles (total combined weight)

C1 - B1 gives the trailer axle weight
B1 - A1 gives the tow vehicle rear axle weight (vehicle sticker should have max axle weights)

then a second pass through the scale without the trailer but with everything else the same as the first pass, you'd get

A2) front axle
B2) front+rear axle

and B1 - B2 would be that tongue weight, C1-B2 would be the trailer total weight.
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Old 05-21-2021, 03:18 PM   #13
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oh, re too much tongue weight, good question... I suppose it would reduce the effectiveness of the trailers brakes, and it would put more load on your vehicle frame.

the standard number is 10-15% of the trailers total weight.
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Old 05-21-2021, 03:31 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
the standard number is 10-15% of the trailers total weight.

But first read your vehicle manual and find out what the maximum tongue weight rating is.
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Old 05-21-2021, 04:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonette View Post
I'm actually not sure what I'm towing with yet, was gonna be my ford ranger but my neighbor crashed into it a couple weeks ago and I think it might be totalled. Having issues with my insurance at the mo, and don't know what's happening yet. He crashed into my open door 2 hours after I put road privileges back on ( specifically so I could pick up the boler the next day), after helping me unload a piece of furniture off the back....he totally knew my truck was parked there, I told him to wait before he backed out cos I was gonna move my truck over....I barely made it into the cab before he crashed into my door and nearly tore it off. Apparently I'm 50% at fault cos i opened my door.
Hmmm... Another Alberta Ranger pilot. Iím in Calgary. I tow with a 1997, 4.0 liter, 5 speed, Ranger, (my daily driver) or a 1997 Savana travel van, (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ver-60777.html). Though, my trailers are Trilliums, not a Boler.

Too bad about the accident. I hope it all works out for you. I am no insurance expert, but I would consider disputing your insurance companiesí interpretation. If you were parked, and the door was open previously, how could it possibly be your fault?
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Old 05-21-2021, 05:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
But first read your vehicle manual and find out what the maximum tongue weight rating is.
yeah, and subtract at LEAST your actual tongue weight from your vehicles payload, along with any other accessory stuff mounted on said vehicle, like camper shell, the ball mount, aftermarket hitch reciever (if any), roof racks, etc, to find your useful remaining payload, which on many vehicles is a lot less than you'd like.

I see these Tacomas running around with 100s and 100s of lbs of offroad bolt ons, and wonder if they realize a gen2 Tacoma double cab 4x4 only has like 1000 lbs of total payload INCLUDING PASSENGERS. those fancy roo bars? the big roll cage/roof rack with the sand ramps and hilift jack? extra gas cans, oversized ginmormous wheels, spare tire? rooftop Tepui tent? thats all added to your payload, and beefing up your springs and shocks doesn't actually increase that payload although it very likely makes it feel like it does.
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Old 05-21-2021, 07:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Hmmm... Another Alberta Ranger pilot. I’m in Calgary. I tow with a 1997, 4.0 liter, 5 speed, Ranger, (my daily driver) or a 1997 Savana travel van, (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ver-60777.html). Though, my trailers are Trilliums, not a Boler.

Too bad about the accident. I hope it all works out for you. I am no insurance expert, but I would consider disputing your insurance companies’ interpretation. If you were parked, and the door was open previously, how could it possibly be your fault?
Yeah, no kidding, right? It's so frustrating....I had to park over the line of my stall, and didn't back in all the way cos there was a huge f350 parked in the visitor stall next to mine, and I had stuff in the cab to unload too. So neighbor comes out and kindly helps me unload a dresser off the box, and says he needs to leave for an appointment right away. I say ok hold on, lemme move my truck so you can get out. Seriously, in the 5 seconds it takes me to get to my truck door, he is backing out and I had to jump into my cab quick so he doesn't hit me! I could not believe what he did, and he admitted full fault, but that doesn't matter to the insurance company.

His insurance is insisting I take 50%.....there is no allowance for grey area, they go by the book and apparently the vehicular laws state that I had to take reasonable care when opening my door....you would think that a directive telling him to wait so I can move, plus his FULL awareness that I was parked as I was would be reasonable care.....but his insurance saves $$ by insisting I take 50% blame, so that's all that matters to them.

And now suddenly he and his wife are pissed off at ME....once they heard his insurance says it's half my fault, suddenly they are feeling justified at being angry, oh they are so hurting for the $500 deductable. Zif I'm not. I told them that maybe from a legal perspective im half to blame, but from an ethical point of view, I take no responsibility, so they're pissed off I would dare say that to them. They have a cracked bumper, and can still drive their vehicle. My truck has been sitting with a tarp over it as best I can, through several rain and a smowstorm now, since May,5. Maybe totalled and gone for good, book value is less than 1/3 what a used Ford ranger goes for in even a private sale. As a single, getting older woman, my truck means I can live the independent lifestyle I'm accustomed to, so this really hurts me, especially since I'm not working. I almost didn't buy the Boler cos of this, but life is short and bolers never die. It was too nice to pass up, maybe a once in a decade luck and find combo, and I so sooo really need a mental health unit.

Sorry, venting. Maybe it will help someone else....do not leave your door open or open your vehicle door without sending up flares and playing Valkyrie on a trumpet. Maybe set out a bunch of those orange cones first, too.
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Old 05-21-2021, 07:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
yeah, and subtract at LEAST your actual tongue weight from your vehicles payload, along with any other accessory stuff mounted on said vehicle, like camper shell, the ball mount, aftermarket hitch reciever (if any), roof racks, etc, to find your useful remaining payload, which on many vehicles is a lot less than you'd like.

I see these Tacomas running around with 100s and 100s of lbs of offroad bolt ons, and wonder if they realize a gen2 Tacoma double cab 4x4 only has like 1000 lbs of total payload INCLUDING PASSENGERS. those fancy roo bars? the big roll cage/roof rack with the sand ramps and hilift jack? extra gas cans, oversized ginmormous wheels, spare tire? rooftop Tepui tent? thats all added to your payload, and beefing up your springs and shocks doesn't actually increase that payload although it very likely makes it feel like it does.
Good grief, this seems complicated, lol.

But I will do it sometime this summer....once I find out if I will be getting my truck fixed or if I will have to tow with my Jeep. Neither has much in terms of extra add ons....tonneau cover on my truck, roof rack on my jeep which I'm sure is mostly aluminum.

I have to use an extension on my Jeep to get past the spare tire on the back...

I noticed lots of creaking and groaning, mostly at slow speeds over speed bumps in parking lots...
Kind freaked me out at first, that crunching noise sounds so awful, like something serious is amiss. I'm mostly deaf, but I can hear that! I found a couple of different bolt on hitch stabilizers on Amazon....anybody use those? Simple thing, just a big U bolt and an offset metal plate you tighten at the reciever/extension joint.
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Old 05-21-2021, 07:20 PM   #19
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I have to agree with you on the tacoma thing. On our recent trip through the southeast off roading country we saw mostly three vehicles, Jeeps, 4runners and Tacomas loaded for bear. They're very capable and reliable trucks.
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Old 05-21-2021, 11:41 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jonette View Post
Good grief, this seems complicated, lol.

But I will do it sometime this summer....once I find out if I will be getting my truck fixed or if I will have to tow with my Jeep. Neither has much in terms of extra add ons....tonneau cover on my truck, roof rack on my jeep which I'm sure is mostly aluminum.

I have to use an extension on my Jeep to get past the spare tire on the back...

I noticed lots of creaking and groaning, mostly at slow speeds over speed bumps in parking lots...
Kind freaked me out at first, that crunching noise sounds so awful, like something serious is amiss. I'm mostly deaf, but I can hear that! I found a couple of different bolt on hitch stabilizers on Amazon....anybody use those? Simple thing, just a big U bolt and an offset metal plate you tighten at the reciever/extension joint.
how long is this extension? if its relatively short, you can get a longer ball mount instead of using the short ball mount with the extension, and it will be much more rigid. also, Curt's 2" ball mounts fit the recievers with less slop than some of the other brands.


for my F250, I use this longer ball mount so the tailgate clears my trailer's nose jack handle, its 12.25" from the hole hte pin goes in to the hole the ball goes in, thats about 6" longer than a normal one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007M308U/

Curt has a 14" one too,
https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-acces...-3?length=1381


do note, extending the hitch farther back increases the tongue weight load on your vehicle, decreasing the capacity.

I have no trouble with this on the F250, because my trailer has maybe 500 lbs tongue weight, and my truck is rated for 1250 lbs (albeit with a WDH), and a max tow capacity of 12500, so I am ridiculously far under the margins, such that I don't have to pay much attention to weights.
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