body attachment

[Lionel]

Hi,
I have been working on shining up my 72 Boler for few years now. Getting there.
I am wondering how the body is attached to the floor and the floor to the frame.
I have looked at the bottom and it is plywood so that can be attached to the frame but I cannot see the fasteners.
Any attachments of the body to the floor cannot be seen as the previous owner and I have been doing a pretty good job of keeping up appearances with linoleum and carpet and the fastening system is not obvious.

Any help in understanding would be appreciated.
Lionel

[Lionel]

OK, I will try to word this different.
My camper is 44 years old and I pull it quite a distance each year.
I try to keep it in tip top shape.
I want to check all of the parts to make sure they are safe.

1)Where do I look to make sure the floor is safely attached to the frame.
2)Where do I check to make sure the fiberglass portion is safely attached to the frame.

I have checked some reconstruction posts but do not see the connections.
Lionel

[Mikmay]

Originally Posted by Lionel

OK, I will try to word this different.
My camper is 44 years old and I pull it quite a distance each year.
I try to keep it in tip top shape.
I want to check all of the parts to make sure they are safe.

1)Where do I look to make sure the floor is safely attached to the frame.
2)Where do I check to make sure the fiberglass portion is safely attached to the frame.

I have checked some reconstruction posts but do not see the connections.
Lionel

There are 2 bolts under the rear compartments,2 in the front compartments ,1 under the fridge and 1 in the closet 6 altogether which will separate the floor and body from the frame.

[Lionel]

Thank you for the reply.
I have looked and do not see the bolts.

I have had a trailer company replace the axle. An electrician has replaced all the wiring. I replaced the propane system and made a new tabletop and counter top of butcher block.

I took the attached picture this afternoon of the camper, the stove and counter top and I also attach a picture of under the front of the trailer.
There seems to be many small screws holding the floor to the frame. These are at the back too. If you look in the compartments , you see the heads and all are not tight but there are many.
All I can see holding the shell to the plywood is a wrap around of fiberglass to the plywood.
If anyone has input, I would appreciate that.
Lionel

[Lionel]

The picture did not take.

[Lionel]

The picture did not take here. Is there something special besides just attaching it by browse?

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Lionel

The picture did not take here. Is there something special besides just attaching it by browse?

You select by browse and then click Upload and then wait until it tells you it has finished uploading. Then hit Submit ( or Preview so you can see that it is attached. )

[Lionel]

T



ry again

[Lionel]

As you can see from the picture, holes were drilled from inside the camper and screws inserted through the plywood and through the angle iron on the frame. There are no nuts on the fasteners. There are lots of these. Inside the compartments, in the floor etc..
Should I add better bolts and some washers?
Is there a better idea?
Lionel

[tractors1]

I wonder if a prior owner overlaid the original floor with another layer of plywood? Some of those screws are way too long to be original construction.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Lionel

As you can see from the picture, holes were drilled from inside the camper and screws inserted through the plywood and through the angle iron on the frame. There are no nuts on the fasteners. There are lots of these. Inside the compartments, in the floor etc..
Should I add better bolts and some washers?
Is there a better idea?
Lionel

I think you have the right idea...just add a few bolts, with good sized washers under the head on through the framing.

You won't need more than 8-10 if you distribute them front, back and along each side. If some of those previously installed screws look like a good position for a bolt just take out the screw and you will have a ready made, pre-drilled, pilot hole.

If you then think all those screws are not needed remove the ones you don't think are of structural value and fill the holes with epoxy putty. I suspect you have pretty good judgement abilities for what makes structural sense and what does not.

People who don't have experience with construction might think it will make things more secure to put in a whole lot of fasteners when the reality is an excessive number of holes makes the structure weaker. The term "overkill" does not mean it is a good thing to do, it means it was not required for the job.

[John in Michigan]

For reference, my 1974 Boler made in Alberta had:

- Four 1/4" bolts with fender washers (on the floor), lock washers (below) and nuts. These four bolts go through the FG floor into flanges that are welded to the rectangular tubing frame. Two of these fasteners are under the front bench. The other two are under the two rear benches.

- Approx. fourteen #10 x 1 1/2" sheet metal screws with fender washers (on the floor) go through the FG floor into the rectangular tubing frame.

All of the above appeared to be original. I replaced all of the fasteners. (Edit: The sheet metal screws were loose. I increased sheet metal screw size to #12 (hex head self drilling screws).)

[Lionel]

Thanks for the info.
I have looked for the bolts and have not found them.
I will put bolts through the floor and frame flange.
I will work on the self drilling screws. There are more heads in the compartment than screws coming out the bottom. I will work on each one from inside the trailer and make sure I have enough that seem to be working to hold the floor to the frame and take out the rest. I will plug the holes with body putty.

I have spoken to a person who worked with fiberglass who said that folding the fiberglass over the plywood 2 inches made a very secure bond.

Thanks again for the input.
Lionel

[EllPea in CA]

I've been concerned about bolts to frame in my 88 Lil Bigfoot. We have no indication that anything is wrong, but reading other posts about loose, rusted, and missing bolts makes this a worry.

So far, I haven't found a way to check the interior bolts. Am I understanding that we could simply add several new bolts through shell/floor to frame even if we don't have access to the originals? The drawback being, as K.C.. Has mentioned, that drilling more holes creates a different kind of integrity issue...

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Lionel

Thanks for the info.
I have looked for the bolts and have not found them.
I will put bolts through the floor and frame flange.
I will work on the self drilling screws. There are more heads in the compartment than screws coming out the bottom. I will work on each one from inside the trailer and make sure I have enough that seem to be working to hold the floor to the frame and take out the rest. I will plug the holes with body putty.

I have spoken to a person who worked with fiberglass who said that folding the fiberglass over the plywood 2 inches made a very secure bond.

Thanks again for the input.
Lionel

The automotive industry "Bondo" types of fillers are not a structural adhesive filler. That is why I suggest epoxy putty, it is a structural adhesive filler. It is much less likely to loose its grip on the interior edges of holes in metal, wood, fiberglass, etc. and it can rebuild strength to layers of plywood versus Bondo filler that can't do that. Also the auto industry fillers are hygrosopic meaning they will absorb moisture after curing. Epoxy fillers do not absorb moisture.

Rule is do the job right the first time or you will be doing it again. Most people don't realize that Bondo has its weaknesses, I certainly did not before I started living among professionals in the marine industry. They straightened me out on what to do for repairs versus the common knowledge that gets applied to patching up cars on the cheap.

[Lionel]

Well, I got mine figured out.
I went under the trailer and seen how the frame was set up. Mine has a rectangular frame with a flange welded to it (I think that is the best way to describe it). I drilled a pilot hole with a small bit through the flange and it came up just inside the front seat compartment. You can see the flange in the top picture. The screws are sticking down.
I then made the whole with a 1/4 inch bit and used a 1/4 inch bolt with large fender washers and tightened it down.
I will work on the rear set up tomorrow.

The advise I get on this forum is great. It has helped a lot.
I feel better now understanding how the floor is attached and that I have done a bit to secure it as I travel along the road.
Good luck all.
Lionel

[Lionel]

Got it - epoxy putty it is.
Lionel