Boler 13' frame removal in progress - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #1
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Boler 13' frame removal in progress

I am in the process of removing the frame from my 13' boler. It needs a new axel. So far, I've locate all the bolts and removed them. Ive been lucky as all but two came out with a screwdriver and a little wd40.

The ones that have me baffled are the ones that are located in the bottom of the closet. These should be located on the floor in the space between the closet wall and the wheel well. Unfortunately a piece of wood has been placed here and I cant figure out how its been attached to the floor. I need to get this piece of wood out as the bolts should be located beneath. That wood is fastened in there really well. I have tried wedging a screw driver under it from multiple angles. This was unsuccessful. Can anyone offer some wisdom here? I'm considering shredding that piece of wood with a grinder, but must be a better way. Suggestions?

Derek
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:54 PM   #2
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Hi Derek, welcome to FiberglassRV. I can offer no suggestions for your dilemma, but didn't want to miss the opportunity to welome to a place where kind and helpful people hang out! I'm betting one will be along before too long
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:31 PM   #3
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Hi Derek,

I too am in the middle of resolving some major issues in my little Love Bug. Funny you mentioned that piece of wood. I started today be removing everything loose that could be carried out. I had a little piece of wood on the floor of the closet. I tried to wiggle it out then just gave up for the time being. Well as it turned out I had to take out the fiberglass bench on that side of the dinette and guess what I slid out from under the side of the closet. Yup, that little piece of wood. whew, I feel better now that I got that out. Don't know if this will be any help, but thought it was worth mentioning.

Cathy
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:39 PM   #4
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How was the wood fastened in place?
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:46 PM   #5
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It was just wedged in. slid right out from under the edge of the closet when I took out the dinette bench.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:48 PM   #6
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Almost like it was used as a shim under the bench end.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:43 PM   #7
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Mine is in there a lot more firmly then a simple "wedge." If it was just wedged in, it would have come loose with my prying efforts.

Perhaps attacking it with a grinder is the answer. Unless anyone has any other ideas?
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:55 PM   #8
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On my Boler, the little pieces of wood beside the wheel well in the closet had screws going through them to the frame. The screws were difficult to see because of all the dirt and paint over top of them. The pieces of wood weren't actually glued or fiberglassed in, they were just held in with the screws. Underneath the wood was just the fiberglass from the wheel well.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:07 PM   #9
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Screws will make a lot more sense. I will have to get in there and explore with some nice bright light. We will see what I can find tomorrow.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:19 AM   #10
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Well, I solved this puzzle. It turns out that the wood was bolted into place in two locations. Once I removed the two bolts, the wood came out with no problem. Under the wood there was one bolt going into the frame. The funny thing is that this badly was to badly rusted that I probably could have skipped it as it would have disintegrated if I put any force on it what so ever. I did grind it out, but oh well.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:54 PM   #11
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Looks like that piece of wood was a "patch". May I ask, how are you lifting the shell from the frame? I think I am only going to have to replace the rear section of my floor but would like to slightly "lift" the back end in order to insert the new flooring. This must be what is the cause of what I have heard called sag.
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:01 PM   #12
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My tools consisted of blocks, four jack stands, and a scissor jack from an old Volvo.

If you put the tongue on the ground, this will put the rear "bumper" up higher. You can put jack stands under the bumper at this height. Next go back up to the front and jack up the tongue. That may give you enough clearance to do what you need to do on the floor. If you are removing the frame from there, its a matter of jacking and blocking until you have the trailer up where you want it.

In my case, I jacked and blocked in such a way to make it easy to drag the frame out from underneath. It will also be easy to get the frame back in there once it is time to do so.

If you are fixing the floor under the table, you may have to remove the water tank first. Thats where it is located. On my trailer, there are 4 stove bolts and a sheet of plywood holding the tank in place.

Derek
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:15 PM   #13
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Derek,

Thanks for those details. The water tank was removed by a PO. Let me make sure I understand. I get how to jack the entire "thing". the trailer part and the cabin, and the floor is attached to both. Did you release the floor from the trailer and jack the floor?
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:52 PM   #14
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Im not completely sure I understand your question. I thought you wanted to go high enough to fix the floor.

In my case, the goal was to remove the frame. I removed all the bolts attaching the trailer to the frame. Next I lifted the whole thing with jack stands under the frame. After that I put jack stands under the fiberglass floor. With the fiberglass egg supported, I lowered the frame to the ground. Removing the tires allowed the frame to go lower to the ground and made it easier to drag out.

It goes without saying that you need to put a piece of wood between the jack stand and the fiberglass. This helps to spread the weight out.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:04 PM   #15
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Yes, that is what I was asking. I was confused about the terminology. My bad. My concern was that the outer shell of the egg wont support the weight of the entire camper, minus the trailer.

thanks for clearing that up and for being patient.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:08 PM   #16
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ummm, I wouldn't want to rely on the outside edge of the egg to support the whole trailer. Maybe it would be ok, but I wouldnt take the risk. I had the jack stands supporting the fiberglass floor.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:12 PM   #17
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I guess... ? different designs. the floor isn't fiberglass. the 'glass just wraps around the wood floor about 3 inches or so. So the wood floor will have to be slid in onto that ledge.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:26 PM   #18
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Perhaps true. In a 13' boler, its entirely fiberglass. There may be a wood sandwich with fiberglass in the middle, but from the ground looking up, all you see is fiberglass.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:30 AM   #19
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Not the early bolers Derek.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:51 AM   #20
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Having restored both a Love Bug and a Boler,within the past year, I can confirm that the floor pan of each is indeed different.

The 1974 Boler features a fiberglass pan with integrated wood slats sandwiched between layers of FG and resin. These slats span the frame rails and provide the lateral strength necessary to carry any weight. My understanding is that, typically, a plywood subfloor is then added to the topside of the cabin floor surface.

The Love Bug, on the other hand, has only resin-coated plywood as its floor, spanning the entire frame, with the shell sides glassed -- top and bottom -- to the wood surface along the perimeter. My 1973 LB resto required a complete floor replacement. This meant cutting all of the old wood away from the FG, then prepping the edges for new wood and glass.

When lifting the shell from the frame, the shell can be supported on its edges this way: on the corners. As suggested, use a jack with a piece of plywood to spread the load (18" x 18" or so...) but directly under each corner where the shell curves from one side to the other. And go slow!
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