Boler Door Fitment

[Markz]

I am looking to begin addressing my Boler door fitment and wondering what the door fitment should look like.

I have attached images showing how the door is presently sitting. It is slightly crooked and doesn't exactly match the curve in the shell. Otherwise, it locks and seals.

I would like to hear anyone's thoughts, concerns and suggestions.

Thanks.

[Gerry]

I have the same door and same problem only worse...I have read many fixes but the one I liked and will soon use if I decide to keep the Boler (Just bought a Casita) will be as followed.
I will get 4 "L" brackets found in the plumbing supply hangers department that will take 3/8 threaded rod. Then I will get 2 turn buckles and some 3/8 threaded rod and 4 - 3/8 nuts.

I will attach 2 of the "L" brackets about 2 feet up on door about 4 inches from the edges and the other 2 brackets about 2 inches from the bottom, in line with the ones above.

Cut 4 sections of rod with hack-saw to span this aprox. 2 foot span with a turn buckle between 2 sections on each side of door.

Close door and tighten the turn buckles till bottom of door comes in to place.


I have not done this but I think this is an easy fix that will work. I do plan to do it before winter or like I said I may just sell and keep the Casita.

[Barbara Gardin]

Been there, did that didn't work

[Markz]

Any suggestions on straightening out the door angle?

[Gerry]

The angle of the door may be fixed with a new hinge kit...the ball may be worn out.

[Gerry]

Originally Posted by Barbara Gardin

Been there, did that didn't work

Barb, did you fix it in another way?
Just asking before I do as I described above.
If so let us know how you fixed yours.

[daveandbonscott]

I have Boler and I would not advise doing all that replacement effort. You may be threatening the integrity of the hinge area of the Boler body and it may not be necessary
Contact Ian Giles at Camping Treasures and get the replacement hinges
parts. He is back from holidays September 1
Take your trailer to an RV repair center - they may be able to reset the hinges if needed
While your solution is creative, it may not be necessary - replacement part are available and I understand the cast hinges never wear out - just the screws and washers

[lisapappas]

We just got back from camping. After traveling, the door went cockeyed. Now we can't even open the door. My husband tried to level the camper with our built-in jacks, and it only made it worse, with the door now actually overlapping a little bit on top. Any tricks for at least helping us to OPEN the dang door?

[Markz]

Originally Posted by lisapappas

We just got back from camping. After traveling, the door went cockeyed. Now we can't even open the door. My husband tried to level the camper with our built-in jacks, and it only made it worse, with the door now actually overlapping a little bit on top. Any tricks for at least helping us to OPEN the dang door?

If you unscrew the hinge bolts the door will come off. Please post a picture.

[Markz]

I'm beginning to think the bottom angle of the door is factory and the slight gap might be from the body settling over time.

Also I believe the door sitting crooked is at least partially to blame on the hinges.

The top hinge looks crooked and appears the PO attempted to shim it at one point. I'm guessing the holes might need to be redrilled.

[lisapappas]

[QUOTE=lisapappas;713835]Here are photos of our frustrating situation. My husband tried to re-angle the camper by jacking up one side to see if that helped. But, unfortunately, we think it may have made it worse. I hate to say it, but when he was doing this, he said he heard a CRACK. I sure hope there's not an issue with the frame. The people we bought the Boler from (who treated the Boler with the utmost care) had a NEW FRAME built for it. Thoughts or feedback, please?

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...1Z?usp=sharing

[Lisa in Michigan]

Were you able to take off the door hinges?

How is the lock operating? Does the cylinder turn for locking and unlocking? We've had a L400 lock stuck after a trip to FL and were able to unstick the lock with lubricant.

And have you considered doing your own thread about not being able to get into your camper ? It might get more attention than someone else's thread about the fit of a boler door. I would worry that the people who might help you might not be following this thread.

[Borrego Dave]

From other posts with the same issue, you might want to take a good look at your frame Mark.

[Barbara Gardin]

We have decided to live with it. It does not let in dirt or water and really doesn't cause any problems. We also tried new parts for the hinges and cut
kerfs in the door bottom.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Barbara Gardin

We have decided to live with it. It does not let in dirt or water and really doesn't cause any problems. We also tried new parts for the hinges and cut
kerfs in the door bottom.

Function is the number one most important thing. If if opens and closes easily, stays latched when on the road and is water tight then you have function But some people will always be bugged by the appearance of an uneven gap, if is OK to be a perfectionist. But one thing I have learned the longer you own the trailer the little things that bugged you a lot when you first go it will begin to recede in importance.

[Markz]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

From other posts with the same issue, you might want to take a good look at your frame Mark.

I got under the camper and looked at the frame. I couldn't find any cracks or rails out of alignment. I think it is the body settling over time combined with elongated hinge wholes. Just a hypothesis. Looking to replace hinges with Scamp hinges, repair and redrill the holes. I am also thinking of ways to bend in the bottom of the door a bit to match the curvature but will wait till after I install some door frame bracing. Looking into the possibility of a screen door.

[Doctor Harold]

Originally Posted by daveandbonscott

...and I understand the cast hinges never wear out - just the screws and washers

The cast hinges on my 1975 Scamp were most likely original and I thought looked okay from the outside, but the door had (has) issues and the previous owner had left a pair of new hinges inside. I finally got around to installing them last week.

The brass balls were more worn than I thought, and the aluminum hinges were extremely worn. The holes were worn oblong and the ball seats were wallowed out of round. Replacing just the bolt and ball would NOT have brought the hinges back to spec.

I would have bought the bolt kit if the PO hadn't already bought complete hinges, and I would have been sorry.

YMMV

Harold

[Sabrinascamper]

I have a 2003 13’ scamp. Door has been a lousy fit all the 5 yrs I’ve had it... just this week I discovered that the floor and under support for door way are Broken at both sides of door! I thought it was a door going out of shape.
Thus the entire side os scamp around door is sagging. Making the door not fit. Ha ha! Sooo
I’m now contemplating how to remove the mess the PO did to “fix” or coverup the broken framework under the door.

Anyone had this problem of broken framework under door?