Boler Door Sag Fix - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-23-2020, 09:00 PM   #1
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Name: Scott
Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300
Washington
Posts: 2
Boler Door Sag Fix

I purchased a 1973 Boler 13 at the beginning of last summer. Had some good times pulling out the windows, resealing, and polishing the aluminum. Went through and replaced all the storage covers and cabinet doors along with the hinges. My wife replaced and recovered all the cushions. All that being said...I have the age old problem of the door sagging on our camper. I am wondering how best to repair this problem. I have looked through the forums and see that a few people used a jack to lift up the roof and then braced the sides of the door. So I have several questions.

1. In looking at our Boler there are no braces under the cabinets near the sink and stove. I am unsure if these need to be there or not.
2. How do I know when I have the roof lifted properly or in the right place?
3. Once I do get the shape right how do I best keep it there?
4. I have noticed that there is a 1-2" gap between the shell and the benches all the way around the camper. Do I need to learn how to fiberglass and reattach this or was it never attached from the factory to being with?

* I took the door off last summer, found a bunch of water in the bottom drilled a few holes in the bottom and drained it out, replaced the exterior hinges, and resealed the window.

Sorry for the long post but need some serious help headed into the spring season.
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Old 02-23-2020, 11:08 PM   #2
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Kootenay's of BC
Posts: 866
Registry
Pics will get more response.
Yes learn to glas, watch some youtube vids for starters.
Fred
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:09 AM   #3
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
Posts: 544
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Originally Posted by Seattle Boler View Post
4. I have noticed that there is a 1-2" gap between the shell and the benches all the way around the camper. Do I need to learn how to fiberglass and reattach this or was it never attached from the factory to being with?
On my 1979 boler 13 footer, the benches screw into a piece of plywood that is glassed to the side of the trailer. If you have that large of a gap then the screws could have rusted away, the plywood could have rotted away or a combination of both. Check for screw holes or screws on top of the benches near to the walls. If there are screws, you will probably need to remove the screws and replace them with stainless and possibly remove the benches to see if the plywood is any good. It is necessary for the benches to be attached to the sides since they help maintain the structure of the walls.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:09 PM   #4
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Name: Amber
Trailer: 1975 Boler 1300
British Columbia
Posts: 9
You should check out the Boler.ca website. It's run by a man named Ian Giles who has written all kinds of articles and advice about Boler fixes and maintenance. He's also sourced lots of common parts with links to sellers. There's a related Facebook group called Boler.ca as well. It's Canadian based, as am I, but that makes little difference when looking for general information.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:32 PM   #5
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Name: Wayne
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 13
Sagging Door

We have a 13' SCAMP built in March 1974. Like your 1973 Boler, we have had similar problems with a "sagging door" leaving a gap at the bottom.

Draining the water was a great idea. "Raising the roof" makes no sense to me.

When we restored our SCAMP in 2014, here's how I "restored" the "sagging door." First, I replaced the old with NEW exterior hinges. Then I jacked up the door (with a judiciously-placed floor jack), putting upward pressure on the bend while pouring boiling hot water on the lower interior of the door. I repeated this process over 24 hours or so, until the lower door once again conformed to the shape of the curvature.

I have kept the door in shape as follows. I drilled two small holes just above the trim on either side of the door bottom...and underneath the trailer, nailed two large staples (at the right distance/length) into the floor. I keep the door taut to the body when it is in storage by stretching two large rubber bungee cords from the door to the staples.

This process has worked perfectly. Best wishes to you!
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Old 02-24-2020, 01:13 PM   #6
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,072
tolerate

I like you idea ours is a 98 with about 1/8 to 1/4 gap at the bottom. I have done some sealing and the next step is to Ians hinge repair kits in to hopefully fix it better.

My understanding is Scamp has a much better made seal and I am ordering that also.


I like what you did but at 78 maybe I am going to try a different route.

thanks

bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccownw View Post
We have a 13' SCAMP built in March 1974. Like your 1973 Boler, we have had similar problems with a "sagging door" leaving a gap at the bottom.

Draining the water was a great idea. "Raising the roof" makes no sense to me.

When we restored our SCAMP in 2014, here's how I "restored" the "sagging door." First, I replaced the old with NEW exterior hinges. Then I jacked up the door (with a judiciously-placed floor jack), putting upward pressure on the bend while pouring boiling hot water on the lower interior of the door. I repeated this process over 24 hours or so, until the lower door once again conformed to the shape of the curvature.

I have kept the door in shape as follows. I drilled two small holes just above the trim on either side of the door bottom...and underneath the trailer, nailed two large staples (at the right distance/length) into the floor. I keep the door taut to the body when it is in storage by stretching two large rubber bungee cords from the door to the staples.

This process has worked perfectly. Best wishes to you!
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:09 PM   #7
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Name: Wayne
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 13
Bob: I'm 78 too(!). Don't let that slow you down! Wayne
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Old 02-29-2020, 12:22 PM   #8
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Name: Harold
Trailer: 1975 Scamp, 13-foot
Redding, California
Posts: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by mccownw View Post
We have a 13' SCAMP built in March 1974. Like your 1973 Boler, we have had similar problems with a "sagging door" leaving a gap at the bottom.

Draining the water was a great idea. "Raising the roof" makes no sense to me.

When we restored our SCAMP in 2014, here's how I "restored" the "sagging door." First, I replaced the old with NEW exterior hinges. Then I jacked up the door (with a judiciously-placed floor jack), putting upward pressure on the bend while pouring boiling hot water on the lower interior of the door. I repeated this process over 24 hours or so, until the lower door once again conformed to the shape of the curvature.

I have kept the door in shape as follows. I drilled two small holes just above the trim on either side of the door bottom...and underneath the trailer, nailed two large staples (at the right distance/length) into the floor. I keep the door taut to the body when it is in storage by stretching two large rubber bungee cords from the door to the staples.

This process has worked perfectly. Best wishes to you!
I have the same problem with my 1975 Scamp... and your fix is in my future! 😀

Harold
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