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Old 11-08-2016, 09:38 AM   #1
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Name: Jamie
Trailer: Boler 1977
Washington
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boler ensolite

Hi, As everyone knows, there's no insulation in the old Bolers. The condensation/mold is a continuing issue that no matter what I do I cannot get addressed. I've been wondering about covering the ensolite with new liner carpet. The ensolite is in good condition, so no need to paint. I know this would be a HUGE job, but if anyone has done it, I'd love to hear how it went. And, if you have a source other than SCAMP parts, which sells the fabric.

Thanks, Jamie
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:42 AM   #2
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Jamie, since the Rat Fur is marine-grade headliner material, you can probably find it locally at a store that sells upholstery etc. for the boating world. I know here in Portland, OR I can buy it at PefectFit Upholstery Fabric, Wholesale and Discount Auto, Marine, and Furniture Upholstery Fabrics


If you're near Tukwila, try PerfectFit: 18249 Olympic Ave. S. Tukwila WA 98188 206/682.7161 800/652.5202
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Old 11-08-2016, 10:03 AM   #3
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I like your idea- seems like a "best of both worlds" solution. You retain the insulating value of the foam (better than the foil bubble wrap Scamp uses) and gain the soft touch, no-drip hull liner surface.

What it won't do, however, is reduce the amount of water vapor in the air. Moist air will still find places to condense and allow mold to grow- inside cabinets and benches, for example. What kind of heat do you use and how do you ventilate at night and in storage?
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:54 AM   #4
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Hi, In the winter I usually plug in a heater around January that runs only when the temps drop below 50. The ceiling vent is cracked open to allow air to escape, and there are 6-8 Damp Rids inside. I dump the Damp rids monthly. A puddle of water collects in the front bench because the trailer is slightly tilted top left. All windows have new rivets and butyl. Front and back windows have been re-sealed with new gasket and caulked. I even placed black waterproof tape over rivets on the front just to be sure.

Any suggestions are welcome!

Thanks, Jamie
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:53 AM   #5
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Name: Gerry
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1300 / 1991 Casita Freedom Deluxe
Maine
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But lets all remember a by-product of propane is moisture so it is important to have air flow to allow this moisture to escape.
Anywhere there is cold air on one side and warmer air on the other moisture will be present...A vapor barrier needs to be put in between these 2 air masses in the form of plastic sheeting but the low grade window will also collect and drip water down on inside or warm air space
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Old 11-12-2016, 12:23 PM   #6
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Name: Kent
Trailer: 1974 1300 Boler
Manitoba
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By heating the interior of your camper during cold storage, you are causing moisture build-up.

I would remove the heater and just rely on passive ventilation.
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:16 PM   #7
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Name: Kelly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry View Post
But lets all remember a by-product of propane is moisture so it is important to have air flow to allow this moisture to escape.
Anywhere there is cold air on one side and warmer air on the other moisture will be present...A vapor barrier needs to be put in between these 2 air masses in the form of plastic sheeting but the low grade window will also collect and drip water down on inside or warm air space
The OP said he "plugged in" a heater. That is not propane and it is not creating a moisture problem the way a propane heater does.

However an electric heater won't solve all the moisture problems and it is good to say why that is so instead of just posting a one sentence statement that might leave people wondering why it is true. You still have moisture coming in, then it gets warmed by the heater and then it is hitting that cold glass on the windows and other surfaces which are below the dew point temperature and that is causing the water to condense which is leading to that puddle. So put some Reflextic insulation over that glass to keep the warm moist air off of it if you are only going to use occasional heat.

Basically every time you turn on a heater in a really cold space that is below dew point temperature you will have warm moist air hitting surfaces that are cold enough to condense moisture. Fresh air movement in and out without heat can do a better job than occasional heat.

If you really want to dry the air out and you have electric available then get a dehumidifier than has a drain tube and connect it to a drain that goes to the outside. The dehumidifier has its own internal heater and it causes the condensation to happen within the unit instead of on the surfaces in your RV. Get a good quality one. Be careful about buying a used dehumidifier as in the last few years quite a few brands had recalls on them. It is not good to leave them running without supervision for long periods of time. So if you are going to turn one on be sure to go back in a few hours and turn it off or have it on a timer that will turn it off.

Note to everyone: It is a good idea to check for recalls before using older dehumidifier units as yours might have one that you did not get notified about.

Hint for a temporary outside drain to hood a dehumidifier to:
Your fresh water tank likely is hooked to a spigot that drains underneath your RV. As it is winter you might have winterized your water system and drained that tank. During the winter you could borrow that drain spigot for a dehumidifier drain hose. Or of course you could just find a spot inside a cabinet and install a dedicated stop spigot for use with the dehumidifier.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:21 PM   #8
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Name: Gerry
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1300 / 1991 Casita Freedom Deluxe
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But wont this drain freeze when it tries to drip out into negative zero weather and back up?
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