Brake light bar - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-05-2016, 04:40 AM   #21
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Like Darral, I went with an inside rear window install of LED bars. I'm too intimidated by the idea of invading the exterior shell. Very bright and full function with brake and signal lights as well as tail lamps. Here is a previous post illustrating the result. They unplug when we're not in travel mode. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...hts-71816.html
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:54 AM   #22
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David, I like your setup better. The LED strips I used I bought at AutoZone for about $35 and they work ok...but I'd still like some bars like yours. They "diffuse" the LED's better although, mine are still VERY bright-especially at night.

But I like the idea you used to mount them in the window and the way you did it. I'm logging that idea . The ONLY thing different from mine would be, I ran my wires up through the ratfur and the seams. So I went into my taillights from the inside-- original factory holes- then up the wall and over to the windows. So my wires are permanent but completely concealed.

I'd originally thought about drilling through my shell and mounting some of the LED bars identical to yours outside. But since I've seen your mount, I will stay to the inside at the windows and it would be very easy and permanent. I'll probably stick to the Horizontal over the Vertical position because of the way I think that it distinguishes a little better between the left/right signals. But that's minor. Your thoughts?

Thanks for your post. And here's mine again that also shows my hookup inside my taillights.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57642175530813

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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
Like Darral, I went with an inside rear window install of LED bars. I'm too intimidated by the idea of invading the exterior shell. Very bright and full function with brake and signal lights as well as tail lamps. Here is a previous post illustrating the result. They unplug when we're not in travel mode. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...hts-71816.html
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:30 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
The ONLY thing different from mine would be, I ran my wires up through the ratfur and the seams. So I went into my taillights from the inside-- original factory holes- then up the wall and over to the windows. So my wires are permanent but completely concealed.
Thanks Darral. I hadn't thought of tapping into the tailights as you did. I spliced into the wiring as it entered the storage compartment where the shore power cable comes in. From there I ran the wiring under the rat fur up into the overhead storage compartment. The 4 way disconnect plug is in that compartment so the last bit of wiring to the lights is exposed only when they are installed in travel mode. Otherwise the lights are unplugged and stored and the live end of the plug is hidden in the over-dinette storage compartment.

Interesting question re vertical vs horizontal. In terms of safety, you may be right that the vertical may have an advantage. In terms of installation, I'm not sure if the vertical window dimension would fully accommodate the light bar length (too far from my rig to check) and I'm not sure how the bottom would be secured to keep it from excessive swaying. I went with horizontal not because I thought it all through - just seemed easier! I do know I feel safer having the additional visibility - both higher and brighter - on my rear.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:38 AM   #24
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I asked for your thoughts on V vs H and they BOTH present some interesting ideas. One thing I didnt think of- and I BELIEVE I may have checked early on- and that is the distance top to bottom of my window. I'm thinking that IF I go Vertical, I would have to move over from the edge enough to get out of the radii of the window to accommodate the length of the bars . So that could be a game changer.

One thing we both agree on and that is having higher and brighter lights!!! I think someone also mentioned in the other forum is something that I do as well, and that is run a camera (mine is a PEAK unit) in the back window that IS removable. But wowww...how it helps me see what's going on directly behind my SCamp!! Would NOT be without it now.

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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
........Interesting question re vertical vs horizontal. In terms of safety, you may be right that the vertical may have an advantage. In terms of installation, I'm not sure if the vertical window dimension would fully accommodate the light bar length (too far from my rig to check) and I'm not sure how the bottom would be secured to keep it from excessive swaying. I went with horizontal not because I thought it all through - just seemed easier! I do know I feel safer having the additional visibility - both higher and brighter - on my rear.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:51 AM   #25
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I think someone also mentioned in the other forum is something that I do as well, and that is run a camera (mine is a PEAK unit) in the back window that IS removable. But wowww...how it helps me see what's going on directly behind my SCamp!! Would NOT be without it now.
Darral,
I don't have a camera but comments from you and others are getting me to think seriously about adding this feature (though with brake controller, TPM unit, GPS, and a fridge temp monitor my TV console is already suffering from over-tech). Which camera do you use? Is it wireless? Do you have it running all the time or just for backing up?
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:53 AM   #26
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oops - dumb question. I see you have a Peak unit.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:49 AM   #27
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I ran wires inside up from a tail light under the ratfur into an upper cabinet and then out thru the roof vent. Not easy but turned out well, though a bit high up on the roof.
High is good. My Little Joe has bright LED tail lights right at eye level. Given the directional nature of LEDs, when I turn or brake I poke the tailgaters in the eye. Not much help if they are texting, but I feel safer nevertheless.
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:11 PM   #28
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That's ok... but mine is wireless. Not REAL fond of it. I had to run the "wireless" transmitter up to the bathroom of my Scamp so it would give a better signal to the monitor. I wouldnt want to run wireless on a 16' or longer trailer.

I think e-trailer has some pretty good units that may be wired for about the same price. Mine was around the $120 mark. I still wouldnt pay $500+ for the higher $ units.

As always, I documented my camera installation. Here's a link to my Flickr site. On the inside, you will see my receiver neatly sitting on the curtain rod on the window next to the camera. Again, since then, I've had to undo the wire and run the transmitter to the bathroom of the Scamp. It hangs over the shower curtain rod.

Be sure to click on the video of an actual view of the camera. Again, I wont be without one.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57629562084569

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oops - dumb question. I see you have a Peak unit.
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:44 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
That's ok... but mine is wireless. Not REAL fond of it. I had to run the "wireless" transmitter up to the bathroom of my Scamp so it would give a better signal to the monitor. I wouldnt want to run wireless on a 16' or longer trailer.

I think e-trailer has some pretty good units that may be wired for about the same price. Mine was around the $120 mark. I still wouldnt pay $500+ for the higher $ units.

As always, I documented my camera installation. Here's a link to my Flickr site. On the inside, you will see my receiver neatly sitting on the curtain rod on the window next to the camera. Again, since then, I've had to undo the wire and run the transmitter to the bathroom of the Scamp. It hangs over the shower curtain rod.

Be sure to click on the video of an actual view of the camera. Again, I wont be without one.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57629562084569

I like the way you've done it Darral. Looks like you've wired it to be on all the time - not through the backup light circuit as some instructions suggest. The photos are very helpful. You've inspired me to work on it this summer.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:29 PM   #30
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Some say you're not suppose to run the units full time. Some say they WONT run full time. Hogwash... I'm roughly estimating 160-180 hours now on my camera. If you use the "backup" lights, it's dead as far as using it for a rear-view mirror while traveling and THAT is the most important aspect.

Glad I could be of help and you've helped me with ideas on the LED light bars! I LOVE "mod"ing man!

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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
I like the way you've done it Darral. Looks like you've wired it to be on all the time - not through the backup light circuit as some instructions suggest. The photos are very helpful. You've inspired me to work on it this summer.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
Like Darral, I went with an inside rear window install of LED bars. I'm too intimidated by the idea of invading the exterior shell. Very bright and full function with brake and signal lights as well as tail lamps. Here is a previous post illustrating the result. They unplug when we're not in travel mode. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...hts-71816.html
David,
I really like that setup. Got my lights on order! Thanks for posting that.

We only got rear-ended in our Scamp once, but I think it was inattention on the drivers part and not a function of visibility. We were stopped at a red light in the left turn lane after going through the security gate on an Air Force base. I think she must have turned to say something to her kids in the back seat and let her car roll into ours. Felt the bump, but she was too close to see in our trailer mirror. Almost felt sorry for her, since we had just added 14" tires so the rear bumper was a bit higher than normal, and she actually went under the bumper with the hood of her BMW.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:55 PM   #32
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David,

We only got rear-ended in our Scamp once, but I think it was inattention on the drivers part and not a function of visibility.
Oh dear. Being rear-ended is one of my fears. Hope you didn't sustain any serious damage.
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