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06-28-2006, 12:12 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Okay, I"m new so bear with me. My left brake and turn light have stopped working, tho they were working briefly right after I bought my new/old "93 casita. Have checked the bulb, it is good. It makes good contact in the socket. lAll bright and shiny. What do I check next. Also, where does the condensate from my air conditioner go? I can hear the water gurgling around in there. Is it routed to the holding tank? Its a front mounted AC, not rooftop.
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06-28-2006, 06:22 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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what are you towing with?
Some Chev products with a tow package have separate fuses under the hood, drivers side, one for each signal.
Check the ground!
Check the ground!
Check the ground!
get a tester, or go to a trailer shop and have them test the output from your tow vehicles plug.
Is it a 4,5 6, or 7 pin connector?
is there any obvious repair work on the wiring?
tape spots etc...
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06-28-2006, 07:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1983 Scamp 13 ft Standard
Posts: 359
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Quote:
...Also, where does the condensate from my air conditioner go? I can hear the water gurgling around in there. Is it routed to the holding tank? Its a front mounted AC, not rooftop.
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Water gurgling sounds or "swishing" sounds are normal noises from most modern Air Conditioners. Condensation, caused by cooling air losing it ability to retain humidity, tends to collect in the bottom of the air conditioner. Most modern AC units are designed to throw some of the collected moisture onto the heat exchanger coils helping to cool them more efficiently. The pickup of that moisture is what makes the gurgling or swishing sounds. Any excess moisture that collects usually drains out the bottom of the AC. If you have a factory installation there will be a collection drain that allows the moisture to drain out of the trailer and onto the ground. If it is a homemade install, be sure that some provision has been made to drain off the moisture, otherwise you run the risk of rotting your floor. Like your auto AC, you'll usually find a small drip of condensate dripping underneath the frame onto the ground.
Keep Cool...ConwayBob
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06-28-2006, 08:08 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
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Quote:
Water gurgling sounds or "swishing" sounds are normal noises from most modern Air Conditioners. Condensation, caused by cooling air losing it ability to retain humidity, tends to collect in the bottom of the air conditioner. Most modern AC units are designed to throw some of the collected moisture onto the heat exchanger coils helping to cool them more efficiently. The pickup of that moisture is what makes the gurgling or swishing sounds. Any excess moisture that collects usually drains out the bottom of the AC. If you have a factory installation there will be a collection drain that allows the moisture to drain out of the trailer and onto the ground. If it is a homemade install, be sure that some provision has been made to drain off the moisture, otherwise you run the risk of rotting your floor. Like your auto AC, you'll usually find a small drip of condensate dripping underneath the frame onto the ground.
Keep Cool...ConwayBob
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Bob, thanks for reply. I"m assuming that it's a factory installation. It's under the closet by the door, next to the bathroom. And yet, i cannot find any tube with dripping water anywhere under the trailer. That's why i wondered whether it could be routed to the holding tank. I guess i'll have to pull the AC to be sure that all is as it should be.
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06-28-2006, 08:11 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
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Quote:
what are you towing with?
Some Chev products with a tow package have separate fuses under the hood, drivers side, one for each signal.
Check the ground!
Check the ground!
Check the ground!
get a tester, or go to a trailer shop and have them test the output from your tow vehicles plug.
Is it a 4,5 6, or 7 pin connector?
is there any obvious repair work on the wiring?
tape spots etc...
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Well, as it happens, I AM towing with a Chevy Silverado with a tow package. so that is definitely a possibility. I have a 7 pin connector. All wiring that I have seen looks like it is original. Thanks for help
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06-28-2006, 08:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
what are you towing with?
Check the ground!
Check the ground!
Check the ground!
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Last time I looked the ground was still there, sometimes under concrete and asphalt. Sometimes covered with grass, but it seems to be ok.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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06-29-2006, 05:33 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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Quote:
Last time I looked the ground was still there, sometimes under concrete and asphalt. Sometimes covered with grass, but it seems to be ok.
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Go to your room Byron !!!
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06-29-2006, 09:23 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
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Quote:
Well, as it happens, I AM towing with a Chevy Silverado with a tow package. so that is definitely a possibility. I have a 7 pin connector. All wiring that I have seen looks like it is original. Thanks for help
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My guess is the fuse as I just had it happen to me on the road, except mine was on the right side. Check your owner's manual. It should have a pretty good diagram.
Now, the question is: What blew the fuse? If it blows again, then you'll have to trouble shoot that.
I have an extension for my plug because it's a tad too short. I rewired it, but it happened to be the other end. One of the wire connectors was slipping down and hitting the metal sleeve, thus causing it to short out. I spent 2 hours in the Auto Zone parking lot to find and fix that one!
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06-29-2006, 09:26 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
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Quote:
I spent 2 hours in the Auto Zone parking lot to find and fix that one!
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.... after spending 6 hours the morning before tearing everything up looking for a bad ground. Trust me, check the fuses first and make sure you get the correct fuse box ... most likely the one under the hood.
I have an 02 GMC Envoy, but my guess is that the electrical may be similar since they both came with tow pkgs.
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06-29-2006, 09:34 AM
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#10
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Administrator
Trailer: Casita 1999 17 ft Liberty Deluxe
Posts: 10,948
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Quote:
Bob, thanks for reply. I"m assuming that it's a factory installation. It's under the closet by the door, next to the bathroom. And yet, i cannot find any tube with dripping water anywhere under the trailer. That's why i wondered whether it could be routed to the holding tank. I guess i'll have to pull the AC to be sure that all is as it should be.
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You might phone Casita first, and ask them what they do about the condensation. My [b]guess is there's a drip pan to catch it so it can evaporate (since you don't see a drain tube beneath it). My '99 Casita has the air conditioner beneath the closet and we've never had a problem with condensation overflowing ... not that we've used the air a great deal. (We usually camp in cooler weather, but not always.) I'd be very surprised if they route it to one of the holdings tanks.
Anyway, before tearing into it, I'd call Casita. They still install air conditioners like yours in their 13 ft. and 16 ft. models. (They'll also still do it in a 17 ft., if you ask/beg/plead with them to do it!)
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06-29-2006, 10:32 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 257
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Quote:
(They'll also still do it in a 17 ft., if you ask/beg/plead with them to do it!)
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And pay an extra 200 dollars.
On our 13 condensation ran out through the grill on the bottom of the trailer.
Nick
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06-29-2006, 11:22 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
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Quote:
You might phone Casita first, and ask them what they do about the condensation. My [b]guess is there's a drip pan to catch it so it can evaporate (since you don't see a drain tube beneath it). My '99 Casita has the air conditioner beneath the closet and we've never had a problem with condensation overflowing ... not that we've used the air a great deal. (We usually camp in cooler weather, but not always.) I'd be very surprised if they route it to one of the holdings tanks.
Anyway, before tearing into it, I'd call Casita. They still install air conditioners like yours in their 13 ft. and 16 ft. models. (They'll also still do it in a 17 ft., if you ask/beg/plead with them to do it!)
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well I did call Casita and they said, yes, there is a drip pan and that if there was excess condensate it would run out through the grill- so, not to worry.
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06-29-2006, 05:42 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
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Okay, thanks everyone for your help. I have checked all my fuse boxes and they are all good. I put a multitester on the connnector on my car and i'm getting signal there. So I"m back to thinking the problem is in the trailer itself. Check the ground, ground, ground. Okay, just where do I check that?
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06-29-2006, 09:21 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Chalet
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Last time I looked the ground was still there, sometimes under concrete and asphalt. Sometimes covered with grass, but it seems to be ok.
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Ok now Byron...............Go to your room!...........
Stan.............Lots of good suggestion and I hope you have solved the problem.
Byron ....if you will be good and continue to be Helpfull you can come out of your room now.
Happy Mods and Camping to All ! Lynn( still eggless,but working on it)
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06-29-2006, 10:23 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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06-30-2006, 02:48 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
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Thanks again for all your suggestions. I'm slow but I finally found it. It was the trailer end connector. I kept rejecting that idea because the connector LOOKED so good I coudn't believe it was bad. At least I found out that everything is grounded real good. In case someone reads this with similar problem, know that putting on a new connector is not a big deal. Just make sure you know where all the seven wires go. on the road again
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06-30-2006, 05:16 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
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Yeah, I know what you mean. When I rewired my extension I just new it was the end that looked bad ... it wasn't, it was the good end. Says she, after spending more than an hour rewiring the wrong end.
That's a good reminder to folks about knowing where the wires go. I cut mine off a few inches, then left it wired with the short stubs until it was replaced wire by wire. That way I knew that it was going back just like it was before!
Congratulations on resolving your proglem!
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07-01-2006, 07:03 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Minit 13 ft
Posts: 106
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I"m back to thinking the problem is in the trailer itself. Check the ground, ground, ground. Okay, just where do I check that?
I'm certainly no expert, but what I know comes from experience. I had a nightmare of a problem with my '73 trailer. I have this light with a pointy end and a clamp for the ground. Attach that to the ground wire from the hitch (with vehicle hooked up) and just start testing wires, assuming you have easy access. I did this to make sure all of the hot wires were indeed hot. When that tested out fine, then I knew it was the ground, so I just went through inch by inch (I'm not kidding!) through all of the grounds and found the problems: one splice was not attached, the previous owner/manufacturer had combined the grounds from the trailer's power battery and the hitch. After some new connectors and wires, it works perfectly now. Most likely it's something simple, but sometimes we go through a lot to see just how simple life is--or in this case, trailer wiring. Good luck!
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