Building a bunk.. Epoxy or PL ?????

[babs08]

Good evening fellow fiberglassers!

We own a 1981 Bigfoot 17 ft gem and need to reinstall the overhead bunk. We would like to build a new "frame" for it, both gluing and screwing in a lip/ ledge for the bed platform to rest on. One ledge would run along the outside wall of course.

Here's the question... Epoxy adhesive ( pls if this is your preference can you tell me which brand) vs PL 9000 or whatever number this product now goes to!

Epoxy vs PL ...... ????? I wonder if this is similar to a silicone vs butyl debate??

Thanks!


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[padlin00]

I'm a fan of West epoxy, I use their 105 system, you buy the correct hardener for the temperature range you are most likely to encounter while using it. I think your trick will be to get it thickened correctly so it doesn't run down the wall if I'm envisioning your project correctly. I'd suggest calling their tech support and explain your needs, they should point you in the right direction. Experiment a bit before doing the real thing. I'd take something like a 1x1 or whatever your lip will be made out of and try gluing it to a vertical piece of plywood. Thicken the glue till it does not run. You mention screwing it to the wall so that'll hold it in place while it dries.

You might get away with one of their fiberglass boat repair kits, you just won't need the fiberglass fabric it come with.

Epoxy by the Leading Epoxy Manufacturer | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

[steve dunham]

When I glued strips of wood to the walls of my Scamp for supports I used plywood instead of dimensional lumber . Plywood has far less tendancy to split or crack when you screw into it and is more dimensionally stable .

[Lilliv]

I'm curious are you dropping the bed height at all or just reinstalling?


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[babs08]

Originally Posted by Lilliv

I'm curious are you dropping the bed height at all or just reinstalling?


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Hi Lilliv, we completely removed the whole upper cabinet, which was at least two inches thick and didn't have the hardboard on top for a sleeping surface ( which would add to the height). We won't lower the actual lip/rests as we don't want to block the windows, but I think we will gain at least an inch just by not using the cabinets. We will be levelling the new bed platform off the shelf over the rear window.

Hope that helps!



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[Jim Bennett]

I would just use a polyester resin to glass plywood blocks on with. Epoxy will work too, but is not necessary.

Either way, you want to thicken the resin, to aid in filling any gaps or pores. Without a filler, the resin would be too thin and runny.

Afterwards, if you want the blocks to the very solid, you could put a layer of fibreglass over the top of the blocks. Probably overkill, but it sure would not hurt.

Done this way, I bet you could get away with 3 short blocks on the exterior wall. You wouldn't have to go the full length.

[babs08]

Thanks Jim, my husband is all about overkill!! . Would you put small screws in to "clamp" the blocks to the wall?? My husband was considering pressure mounted shower curtain rods to keep things in place, but those aren't sturdy at the best of times. Thoughts on how to clamp the blocks in place? The existing cabinet had screws in it so I imagine it's not the worst thing you can do.


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[Jim Bennett]

I would not use screws, but they should be held in place for 30 minutes or so, if using polyester resin. After that the layer of fibreglass could be put on, if desired.

Even something like duct tape would work. With resin you don't need lots of pressure, just to be held in place.