Butcher block counter

[Marianne S.]

When I gutted our Scamp, I used pine project panels from Lowe's for countertops. They're not as thick as butcher block, so less weight. Many coats of poly so they're waterproof. We use cutting boards, so no worries about knife marks. They're attached the cabinets like a regular countertop. Still look good after 4 years

[HaroldB]

Made from scraps.
https://flic.kr/p/2D1Zby

[SailnDive]

Originally Posted by Raspy

I know this is not butcherblock, but it is a very functional, durable, clean, waterproof and lightweight way to enhance a fiberglass countertop. This will last a lifetime with no real maintenance and can be used to directly cut on. It should stand up to hard use better than any other surface. Also, when fitting under sink and stove flanges, no alteration of the plumbing is needed.

I like the stainless option. I was thinking of copper.

[Blue Bertha]

I have a countertop in my 13' Boler that needs replacing but as my tow vehicle has a very low tow rating, anything I replace, I'm trying to replace it with something lighter than what was there before. I like the idea of butcher block but am worried about the extra weight so I found this bamboo table top at Ikea that I'm going to cut to size as the "kitchen" counter. Finger's crossed!

[ERolfPleiss]

I custom made some birch plank butcher block counter tops for our 1989 16er. The birch strips were from rough cut lumber, planed and fit together with biscuits, pocket screws, and wood glue. I think you could get away with only the wood glue, but because the camper will live outside in varying degrees of humidity, I wanted to additional strength of the mechanical fasteners.

Each plank was approximately 0.75" wide by 0.5" high. The butcher block is attached to the fiberglass via double stick tape.

As mentioned above, you can purchase butcher block counters readily from a home improvement store. If I did it over again, I'd just buy one and cut it to fit, rather than attempting to do all of the work to create my own. At the end of the day I don't think I saved any money, and I spent loads of time on this project. Anyway, it was at least fun to do.

We also have used some reclaimed oak from an old legal library shelving system to make the shaker style cabinet doors.

[Steve Hammel]

I used some of that thin 1" semi butcher block stuff from Home Depot on a 19' Scamp. It looked really nice after I stained and then put several coats of poly on it. I have "real" butcher block in my home kitchen and I don't think I would ever put anything that heavy in a trailer.

[yolofitz]

Similar mod to previous poster. 17 ft Casita. Removed metal cover over stove burners. Built frame to support cutting board (plastic purchased from restaurant supply store). When traveling or prepping food, it’s on the “counter” over the stove burners. When using the stove, cutting board rests vertically in a holder secured to side of counter.

[Lucy.Muskoka]

Originally Posted by Judith Neville

I've used a wooden cutting board as a countertop in a van. Learned pretty quick that expansion/contraction destroys it if it is attached along the endgrain side.

Hey guys, I'm a little surprised only Judith has referenced the potential to heave and contract as this is my biggest concern.
I'm planning on replacing my Boler 1700 kitchen counter and dinette tabletop with one 8' piece of butcher block from Ikea.
However, I live in Canada and my butcher block kitchen cart beside the BBQ heaves every winter so now I'm worried this will happen to the Boler.
Has anyone else had issues with this?

[Eric Frye]

Here is my counter top in my Boler B1700. Keep in mind when I got my Boler it was completely stripped out so I had a blank canvas.

[IMG]Counter top 4 by Eric Frye, on Flickr[/IMG]

[Eric Frye]

Originally Posted by Lucy.Muskoka

Hey guys, I'm a little surprised only Judith has referenced the potential to heave and contract as this is my biggest concern.
I'm planning on replacing my Boler 1700 kitchen counter and dinette tabletop with one 8' piece of butcher block from Ikea.
However, I live in Canada and my butcher block kitchen cart beside the BBQ heaves every winter so now I'm worried this will happen to the Boler.
Has anyone else had issues with this?

You shouldn't have much of an issue inside the camper that is being maintained. Keep in mind most campers have wood built cabinets and fixtures that would have the same issue.

[Lucy.Muskoka]

Originally Posted by Eric Frye

You shouldn't have much of an issue inside the camper that is being maintained. Keep in mind most campers have wood built cabinets and fixtures that would have the same issue.

Thanks Eric!
Your new kitchen looks awesome

[redbarron55]

It is not really "butcher block" but it is made the same way.
I used the wide table top wood from Lowe's and stained it to show the different textures , grain and color.
Over five years we have had no problems at all. I did epoxy finish all sides and have a nice gloss finish for bout the small kitchen counter and the between bed pop up table.

[Slingskins]

Casita Greg is that a domestic drop in cooktop? If yes - do you like it? Does it work at high elevation?

[marylars]

Originally Posted by Raspy

I know this is not butcherblock, but it is a very functional, durable, clean, waterproof and lightweight way to enhance a fiberglass countertop. This will last a lifetime with no real maintenance and can be used to directly cut on. It should stand up to hard use better than any other surface. Also, when fitting under sink and stove flanges, no alteration of the plumbing is needed.

Beautiful! How did you attach that?

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by marylars

Beautiful! How did you attach that?

It is glued down with lines of silicone everywhere underneath, arranged so air could escape as it was clamped. It is also screwed across the front and just in front of the backsplash. The trailer body curves inward a bit, so the pressure from the stainless against the hull and the silicone in that area made it very secure. This is a lifetime countertop and good for fairly high temp pans too. I also redesigned the microwave cabinet and made a drop down door with stainless. This can be used for a dish drainer, or work surface. The microwave cannot escape the cabinet, like the original one did, and there was also room for storage tubes.

[marylars]

Originally Posted by Raspy

It is glued down with lines of silicone everywhere underneath, arranged so air could escape as it was clamped. It is also screwed across the front and just in front of the backsplash. The trailer body curves inward a bit, so the pressure from the stainless against the hull and the silicone in that area made it very secure. This is a lifetime countertop and good for fairly high temp pans too. I also redesigned the microwave cabinet and made a drop down door with stainless. This can be used for a dish drainer, or work surface. The microwave cannot escape the cabinet, like the original one did, and there was also room for storage tubes.

That looks amazing. Thank you so much for your quick reply and, especially, for adding the photos!

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Slingskins

Casita Greg is that a domestic drop in cooktop? If yes - do you like it? Does it work at high elevation?

Sorry for the late reply, as I haven't followed this particular thread for quite a while, but new activity on it brought back from the past. Yes, the new stove is a Dometic, (link below,) as opposed to the original Suburban POS that it replaced. I'm not sure what you would consider high elevation, but I've used mine at 7,000 ft. in northern Nevada while traveling. Never had the trailer up Mt. Everest, but as far as I've been vertically, it has worked for me.
I did have to enlarge the counter top cut out a little, but there was enough room to do it. Just make sure to hug the aft end of the sink rim for marking out your cut out dimensions.

https://pantherrvproducts.com/50216/