Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing

[Con]

For those of you that need to know or want to know here are a few sites to read up on Butyl Tape.
Quote:"Butyl is a common term used for the isobutylene isoprene elastomer. As the name implies, butyl is comprised of isobutylene with a small amount of isoprene. It is known for its excellent resistance to water, steam, alkalis, and oxygenated solvents. Another outstanding characteristic is low gas permeation. Butyl is capable of providing high energy absorption (dampening) and good hot tear strength. Good resistances to heat, abrasion, oxygen, ozone."

http://www.plusind.com/Butyl.html
http://www.chemtron.ca/tape404_right.html
http://www.plustape.com/BK/index.htm

As you found out Suz, Putty Tape and Butyl Tape are two entirely different products. I believe Putty Tape will eventually harden up much like Plumbers putty. I am not sure what our 77 Boler had on the windows when I replaced them but it was gray and hard a rock, came off in chunks.

[D Shubel]

Whew! Thanks for calling this out Suz and Con. I have a roll of what I thought was Butyl tape but from your explanation...can only be putty tape. I don't believe I have ever seen the real Butyl tape. Is it usually boxed? Does it only come in white and black? Do you have a good source?

[Frederick L. Simson]

I used to think that butyl tape was putty tape but found that [b]they are actually two seperate things. I believe that butyl tape is sticky-backed rubber (I have found it in white and black) and the putty tape is literally gray putty. Even though I CALLED it butyl tape, what I actually used when I reinstalled my range hood vent was putty tape. It's held up really well.

Not that it matters, as long as it works. I just wanted to kinda 'splain [b]it in case someone ordered some.

I KNEW I was procrastinating on pulling all my windows for a reason.
I just have a big supply of gray putty tape!

[Con]

Butyl tape should be available at any RV Parts and Repair parts dept.
It comes in gray, white and black but most will likely have gray. Personally I like and used the gray as I thinks it will not show dirt etc. as the two other colors. Excess squeezed out trims off very easy. Any little bits that stick to the shell or window frame can be cleaned off with ordinary gas and a cloth. I would reccommend not using any thing else. Gas does not hurt the Butyl in any way.

[Suz]

Thanks, Con, for the links.

[Gary Little]

I have said it in my thread and on the my pictures on Webshots....

That is great information Con about making gaskets. I am going to do this during the restorations on my 13' Scamp. Would you also recommend using rubber gasket behind the drain outlat port,fresh water inlet port and power cord hatch?
I started sealing my windows last night. I tried the small kitchen window first. I applied the butyl tape to the window, set the window, installed all screws around the retaining ring, trimmed the tape edge with dull knive. It looked great last night. Today it appears that I need to trim another 1/8" of excess tape again. Is this normal? The tape seams to have expanded. This is my first time using butyl tape. Please help.
Thanks,
Gary Little

[Con]

Hi! Install gaskets where ever you can. They are a good way to prevent potential leaks. Also the method Per has recommended is good. When I rebuilt our door there was nothing behind the door latch to stop water getting in. Some of the members have had a real problem with their doors being really satuated. If you need heaver gaskets, car tire tubes are good to.

When you are on the road with your tailer, everything is in motion and moving causing the hardward to move and scuff the paint or gelcoat and elongate bolt and rivet holes. For example, many of these trailers have doors that are drooping, causing a bad fit because the hinge bolts are only through the fiberglass thereby allowing the door to leak. Almost all the hardware I took off on the outsde left scuff marks, some thru the gelcoat. I solved the sagging door problem on ours by welding 1/4" thick alum. hinge plates to the alum. frame I built into the door. No more problem, a least not yet!

As far as the butyl tape still squezzing out, yes that is common for a few days till everything settles and finds it level. You have to realize that you are squezzing about 1/8"tape down to maybe under 1/16". Don't over tighten the screws!

Another tip for you that was on the forum before it got hacked, something that I haven't done yet. Pull off your outside louvered panels for the stove, fridge, what have you and install some screens in there. It will keep the mosquitos from coming thru there and under the counter and into the trailer when you are camped at night. I have been fishing at some lakes where they could pack a moose away!!!
Enjoy.

[Con]

For any one else contiplating removing and resealing your windows, don't let it scare you.
It is not complicated and does not require special training or tools. It just requires a little common sense and taking your time. I had anticipated some problems but it went much smooter that I thought. The biggest job for ours was filling in the square corners, rivet holes to fit the newer style radius corner windows. Once I had that done that it went slick. Once you have done it you will be proud of you self and the end appearence.

[Gary Little]

For any one else contiplating removing and resealing your windows, don't let it scare you.
It is not complicated and does not require special training or tools. It just requires a little common sense and taking your time. I had anticipated some problems but it went much smooter that I thought. The biggest job for ours was filling in the square corners, rivet holes to fit the newer style radius corner windows. Once I had that done that it went slick. Once you have done it you will be proud of you self and the end appearence.

Thanks Con. Should I let the butyl tape set for a while before I trim the excess?

Gary Little

[Con]

Yes! BTW is the glass in your window a pebble grain tinted, that's what it looks like in the pic?
I haven't seen too many like that.

[Suz]

Con,

One place noted that their "Black tape is non-trimmable."

Have you ever run across this before?

[Con]

Yes! But I have not used it on any applications as yet.
See attached jpg re: tape

[Gary Little]

Yes! BTW is the glass in your window a pebble grain tinted, that's what it looks like in the pic?
I haven't seen too many like that.

No. It is not tinted. The paint shop wants me to install the windows before they paint. Is this the best way? I was kinda afraid to pull the camper up the highway (10 miles away) to the paint shop without windows in it anyway. I thought I would Butly tape ans install the windows and then do a final sealing with Per's perferred sealant after the paint job. What do you think?
What does "BTW" mean?
Thanks,
Gary Little

[Dan Simon]

my roof vent has a small leak somewhere and I've been gooping it up w/ silicone to no avail....will peeling the silicone off from up on the roof and vent itself and replace with flexiseal be the better approach?

Dan

[don bowman]

If y'all have never used "GOOP" for RV before give it a try.

Here is a link. http://eclecticproducts.com/goop/ad_rv.asp

You can pick it up just about anywhere, it is awesome stuff. It is self leveling, it will RUN if put on thick on a verticle surface.

It will not hold if silicone residue is not removed first.
You can paint it. My egg had spider cracks around the edge, before I repainted it I spread a thin bead around the edge and then painted. It is nice and smooth.

Another nice thing about GOOP, it will not attract dust.

Give it a try,
don

PS, My dad had a saying he picked up from an old snake oil salesman.
" It will make your life brighter, your teeth whiter and child birth a meeer pleasure."
It's GOOD STUFF !!

[Donna D.]

my roof vent has a small leak somewhere and I've been gooping it up w/ silicone to no avail....will peeling the silicone off from up on the roof and vent itself and replace with flexiseal be the better approach?
Dan

Removing ALL the silicone, pulling the vent off and applying butyl, remounting and then a final reseal with flexiseal is the method I'd use. Flexiseal goes around the outside, not between the vent and the body. At least that's the impression I get from Per's pictures. Getting the silicone off is the hard part. Pulling the vent and getting any old butyl off is easy. I just pulled the door window on my Scamp and the old butyl just peeled away cleanly.

No. It is not tinted. The paint shop wants me to install the windows before they paint. Is this the best way? I was kinda afraid to pull the camper up the highway (10 miles away) to the paint shop without windows in it anyway. I thought I would Butly tape ans install the windows and then do a final sealing with Per's perferred sealant after the paint job. What do you think?
What does "BTW" mean?
Thanks,
Gary Little

I think ultimately it would be best to paint without the windows...I know anyone building a quality classic car has it painted in pieces and definitely without windows. But I guess in this situation it would depend upon the paint shop, color being applied and how hard it would be to seal up the inside to protect from overspray. The reasoning for not having windows is based upon the fact if the window is removed in the future for any reason, will it fit back EXACTLY in the same place, if not, there will always be an area where the old finish shows around the window.

BTW = By The Way

[Con]

You are exactly right Donna.
When I was helping my neighbor with the painting on street rods and show cars it was always better to mask out the openings and paint with no windows. Then when you reinstall the windows and trim you get a nice clean job. When doing cars with the windows and trim still on, we had to mask what is called "Close Masking" Doug Mayer will know all about that I expect being a street rodder.
I worked for awhile in an autobody shop during the dirty mid 80's when I couldn't get work in my own filed. We were told to not mask close there and they had several customers complained about the paint showing on the trim. I had to spend hours cleaning and scraping the paint of the metal trim. Where was the saving in that? They should have left me alone to do it right.
My advice, paint with the windows out!

[Con]

Sorry Doug, I spelled you name wrong as Mayer instead of Mager

[Per Walthinsen]

I suspect I muddied the waters a bit when I posted the pictures using the "Butyl Tape" and Flexible Seal combination. The stuff looks of course like putty and in fact is. In looking into it it turns out that my local store supplies three different product categories: 1) Butyl tape, which apparently is a rubber tape with adhesive on it, 2) Butyl Putty tape, which is what I used, and 3) Plain putty tape (no butyl). Elixir Industries supplies both types of putty.

Strictly speaking I used butyl tape, but I should have said "Butyl putty tape." In the interest of accuracy I've edited my previous posts to reflect this. In times like these one has to be careful about giving out wrong information about WMDs (Water Migration Diverters).

The rolls come in various widths and are common in the 1/8" thickness and the 3/16" I used.

I'll go back to my room now.

[Suz]

Thanks, Per. I appreciate you taking the time to explain.