Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV
Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-30-2007, 05:50 PM   #61
Senior Member
 
Name: Val
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Arizona
Posts: 456
Quote:
We bought Flexible Seal (by AC Products) at our local RV store. This is the final caulking that Per used in his tutorial on sealants which started this thread.

Jeanne
Thank you, Jeanne, I will look for that specific product here.

Val
V'sGlassSleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 06:00 PM   #62
Senior Member
 
Name: Per
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft Widebody towed by Touareg TDI
Oregon
Posts: 868
Registry
Jeanne and Steve, Val and Kayla, et. al.:

It is possible that I have made a major mistake in recommending FlexibleSeal. It was certainly recommended to me, and it works well, etc. but I have found that over time it yellows a bit, probably from UV exposure. Not appetizing.

So I went to my local West Marine store, thinking they might know something about this. The local store seems to have several employees who give the impression that they have been personally and intimately involved in the ins and outs of fiberglass and gelcoat. I described the problem and they recommended 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant - Fast Cure 4000UV.

Their reasoning also included the idea that this is meant to be a sealant with great "cosmetic" qualities, i.e. it stays white over time, and since the butyl putty tape is the "real" sealant for our cute little vents and windows this would be what I really wanted.

The description says: "Premium cosmetic sealant, stays flexible. Exceptional protection against harsh marine environment. Superior UV resistance. <1% VOCs, low odor."

I'm going to try this product soon, and if I find it lives up to the hype I will report on it (probably after 1-3 years) along with a huge apology if it lives up to expectations.

On edit. A caution: on the 3M 4000, found both on the tube and from the sales people: The stuff, once opened, supposedly starts curing throughout the tube (meant for a caulking gun), so until I have checked it out I will plan to have enough sealing to do to make it worth the tube. I'm also unable as of now to find a screw cap for it of the right size so far, so I'm holding off until I can determine what its shelf life is once it is opened and resealed with a good cap.
Per Walthinsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 07:05 PM   #63
Senior Member
 
Greg A's Avatar
 
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19
Arizona
Posts: 1,852
This is the stuff I have used on my redo. It is available at Wally for about $6.50 a tube in the tiny marine section.
Very good sealant to use with fiberglass. It does stay flexible and seals well.
__________________
Owner:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale.com
Scamp Owners International
2015 Escape 19 & 1997 Scamp 19
Greg A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 07:44 PM   #64
Senior Member
 
Name: Val
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Arizona
Posts: 456
Well, that's excellent information, thank you. The guys at Home Depot swore by the 3M Marine adhesive sealant that they had (the 5200), however it seemed intended for places that one would never, ever, ever take it off, which may not be the case if, for example, a vent needs some maintenance and needs to be temporarily removed. I figured there had to be one that was a little less permanent, and it sounds as though Per and Greg have found just the thing in the3M Marine Adhesive Sealant - Fast Cure 4000UV and with low VOC to boot (the 5200 VOC was off the charts). We can only try these things out for ourselves and, as Per indicated, share with each other how well they perform over time. It's still the trial and error method, but sharing info and resources does reduce the errors in the long run.

Thank you!
V'sGlassSleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2007, 12:15 AM   #65
Senior Member
 
John Perry's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1996 13 ft Scamp
California
Posts: 471
Send a message via AIM to John Perry
I am in the process of removing and resealing resealing the windows in my 1977 Scamp. I noticed that they were installed using a foam tape. I took a peice to the local glass shop and asked if he had any.
He said no but that it was called glazing tape.
Technology LK in the links section has double sided glazing tape which I have used to reseal 3 windows so far. It is a closed cell foam with glue on both sides. It is neat and easy and I really doubt that it will leak.
Not paying attention I put the first window in upside down and had a terrible time getting it out because the tape was so strong.
I figuered that since the windowns had been installed with the same basic tape and were not leaking after 30 years I would try it.
I was wondering if anyone else has used glazing tape to reseal their windows?

John
John Perry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 07:54 PM   #66
Senior Member
 
DanPatWork's Avatar
 
Trailer: 88 Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 196
Registry
Quote:
On edit. [b]A caution: [b] on the 3M 4000, found both on the tube and from the sales people: The stuff, once opened, supposedly starts curing throughout the tube (meant for a caulking gun), so until I have checked it out I will plan to have enough sealing to do to make it worth the tube. I'm also unable as of now to find a screw cap for it of the right size so far, so I'm holding off until I can determine what its shelf life is once it is opened and resealed with a good cap.
Caution is right!! I don't suggest you open a tube of this stuff unless your going to use it within a day or 2 at the most. I was using it to re-glue some cabinet components, left the tube with the customary 1/4 - 1/2 inch "sacrifice plug" on the end. When I came back to finnish it off the next day it was hard all the way down the nozzle, and required a 6 inch screwdriver to open up a path for the remainder to come out.


Seems like good stuff tho. Sets up fast, and is tougher than snot! I had to cut, scrape, and sand some that got dropped on the floor. Just don't wipe your fingers on your jeans.
DanPatWork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2007, 11:10 AM   #67
Senior Member
 
Name: Val
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Arizona
Posts: 456
Update on using 3M Marine Grade 4000 UV: To prevent it from curing in the tube if you don't use it all in one go, wrap a piece of saran wrap around the nozzle and stick the tube in the fridge... it lasts a long time in there, and just needs to be brought back to room temperature before using it again (so it flows decently).
V'sGlassSleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2007, 04:43 PM   #68
Senior Member
 
Name: Per
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft Widebody towed by Touareg TDI
Oregon
Posts: 868
Registry
Val and Kayla:
If that is true you have saved my sealin' life. I may even do a test seal and test out your advice too. The stuff is too expensive to throw out half-used (I'm cheap). Thanks!
Per Walthinsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2007, 04:55 PM   #69
Senior Member
 
Name: Val
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Arizona
Posts: 456
You betcha! If it sits a long time, you may have to use a long nail to remove the "plug" of dried caulk that forms in the nozzle, but once you get that out and bring it to room temp, the stuff in the tube will flow just fine. This stuff really is expensive...$13 for a small tube and $20 for the caulk gun size... Youch!

Now if you find an easy way to spread the oily, sticky stuff... let us know! It took me forever to caulk a nice clean line with it because it's harder to spread than regular caulk and it doesn't clean up as well (of course, I didn't use anything toxic to clean it up with... what I finally found worked best was wetting the surface with water before smoothing it with my bare finger, and cleaning off excess with just a dry paper towel).

But I could just cry now, because it appears that I may have to razor blade through some of the caulk I just put around the belly band... it seems I may have hit some interior wires when I replaced the old rusty screws...waaahhh! I didn't think to plug the trailer in after replacing all the screws and before doing all the caulking, so my final advice is don't caulk until everything else has been checked over. Sigh.

Val
V'sGlassSleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2008, 12:20 PM   #70
Member
 
Name: Frederic&Belen
Trailer: 1986 19 ft Bigfoot
Posts: 76
WOW!!!!!!...Thanks to all who provided such amazing and great information on this thread...Per, Donna D., Con, etc. etc....

Removing and replacing windows in our little '86 Bigfoot needs to be done for resealing, appearance and other purposes and this thread is going to be a lifesaver.



FredericL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2008, 08:40 AM   #71
Member
 
Trailer: Surfside
Posts: 35
Can i get thoughts on using a band of butyl caulk under the windows (instead of butyl tape)? And having it squish out when tightening the screws down? Am I playing with fire if I don't use tape?
Jason, M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2008, 09:34 AM   #72
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,028
Jason,
My thoughts are that butyl caulk will "set" and make it more difficult to work around if you have to do anything later on.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2008, 02:38 PM   #73
Senior Member
 
Tim D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: 1991 17 ft Bigfoot
anystate
Posts: 116
Registry
A local rv person recommended Vulkem for sealing around windows and vents. He swears by the stuff and it is cheap--less that $5/caulk-gun-tube at Jerry's, our local home improvement center in Eugene.

http://www.tremcosealants.com/commercial/p...mp;product_id=4

Vulkem 921

Product Description:
Vulkem 921 is a one-part moisture curing, gun grade polyurethane sealant. Vulkem 921 is low modulus, durable, flexible, and offers excellent performance in moving joints. Vulkem 921 does not require a primer on most construction materials.

Basic Uses:
Vulkem 921 is an excellent general purpose sealant designed for use in precast, masonry, window and door frame perimeters and similar types of construction joints. Vulkem 921 is also suitable for continual immersion in water with the use of appropriate Vulkem primer. Vulkem 921 is designed for exterior and interior use.

Does anyone have experience with it? I plan to test it around a vent on the roof before sealing around the windows of my 1986 Bigfoot.
__________________
1991 Bigfoot 17 Rear Bath
2006 Dodge Sprinter
Tim D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2008, 06:06 PM   #74
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 25,236
Quote:
Vulkem
Does anyone have experience with it? I plan to test it around a vent on the roof before sealing around the windows of my 1986 Bigfoot.
I've used it on my home. It's still very pliable after 8 years. I'd sure want to read the cautions, etc. carefully. It MAY not be designed to be used on fiberglass. The RV person could be using it on aluminum skinned trailers?
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2008, 09:45 AM   #75
Senior Member
 
Tim D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: 1991 17 ft Bigfoot
anystate
Posts: 116
Registry
According to what I have read it will adhere to fiberglass. The problem seems to be removing it if the time comes. Xylene works according to some, but there seems to be a difference of opinion on its safety for use on fiberglass.
__________________
1991 Bigfoot 17 Rear Bath
2006 Dodge Sprinter
Tim D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 10:42 AM   #76
Junior Member
 
Name: Patrick
Trailer: Boler
MN
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Con View Post
I have said it in my thread and on the my pictures on Webshots. Thin rubber gaskets made from bicicle inner tubes make wonderfeul gaskets.
Forgive my stupid question here. How exactly do you punch out the tube to get the correct size gasket? Do you put the gasket under the SS washer? So from the outside in it goes - outside - Machine Screw Head, SS Washer, Gasket - inside - SS Washer, Hex Nut, Acorn Nut?
Patrick J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 11:45 AM   #77
Senior Member
 
Raya's Avatar
 
Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
I'm not Con, but yes, that is the order it would go in if you were using a gasket. You want a large surface (washer) to compress the gasket evenly. Of course on something with a large base, you would put the gasket under the base.

Also, I would choose one or the other: gasket or sealant, but not both.

If you can get gasket material with UV inhibitors, that would be a plus. I would look in the McMaster Carr online catalog for gasket material, as they sell small amounts to the public, deliver amazingly quickly, and give a lot of information about the properties of their products.

Raya
Raya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 07:33 PM   #78
Senior Member
 
Joe Z's Avatar
 
Trailer: Casita
New River AZ
Posts: 1,043
Quote:
Originally Posted by Per Walthinsen View Post
Beth:

The method I use for vents, grilles, etc. is butyl putty tape followed by a non-silicone sealant like FlexiSeal. Here are a few pictures to illustrate the process:

The putty tape is somewhat sticky, so you press it on to cover the area to be sealed and attach the cover (screwed on in this case. This is a very small cover, so it is quite magnified):
Your post is from 2006 and i have been using your method with great success and it does a great job....butyl tape is good stuff.
Joe
Joe Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 08:10 PM   #79
Senior Member
 
Raya's Avatar
 
Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason, M View Post
Can i get thoughts on using a band of butyl caulk under the windows (instead of butyl tape)? And having it squish out when tightening the screws down? Am I playing with fire if I don't use tape?
Hi Jason,

People do use butyl caulk (i.e. from a tube) on boat portlights (windows) without issue. The butyl kind of separates like gooey pizza cheese when you later go to remove the window, and then you can fairly easily clean up with solvent (nothing like how it would be to clean up more "difficult" caulks).

There are two schools of thought in terms of cleaning up squeeze-out. In one, you tape neatly all around the edge of the flange, and then any squeeze-out goes onto the tape, which you later remove. In the other, you let the squeeze-out squeeze out, and then clean it up with something like a popsicle stick and then solvent.

Raya
Raya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 06:07 AM   #80
Senior Member
 
Joe Z's Avatar
 
Trailer: Casita
New River AZ
Posts: 1,043
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raya L. View Post
Hi Jason,


There are two schools of thought in terms of cleaning up squeeze-out. In one, you tape neatly all around the edge of the flange, and then any squeeze-out goes onto the tape, which you later remove. In the other, you let the squeeze-out squeeze out, and then clean it up with something like a popsicle stick and then solvent.

Raya
I like your idea better ....sometimes a simple solution flies right over my head and will give that a try next time.
Joe
Joe Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Butyl tape - HOW TO APPLY Barry Konkin Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 17 11-13-2018 11:09 AM
Butyl tape: What width and thickness to order? Raya Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 9 08-21-2015 01:14 PM
Butyl tape vs. butyl caulk- newbie looking for input Jason, M Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 08-11-2008 02:57 PM
Just Butyl Tape Or More ?? mitch Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 18 05-28-2007 08:20 PM
Using Butyl tape Gary Little Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 03-01-2006 08:34 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.