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04-20-2016, 08:58 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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C channel for bag awning
We are adding a bag awning to our 2010 scamp. We plan to use VHB tape to attach it. It has little ridges on the bottom. Does the VHB tape go between the ridges? Or should I file off the ridges if I'm going to use it with VHB tape? And the ridges are 7/8 inch apart, but the whole channel is about an inch and a quarter. How wide of VHB should I buy? Thank you for your wisdom!
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04-21-2016, 12:31 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Welcome to FGRV Hugh. There are a number of folks that have used VHB tape for the awning rail and solar panels, I haven't heard of any problems. You can go to 3Ms site and read about how it works and which product # is best for your use. Personally, I wouldn't take the ribs off as it takes a number of hours for the tape to expand and form to both surfaces for it's max grip. IMHO, I would go with something that would fit between the barrel and top edge and thick enough to be taller than them. You may want to file/smooth the barrel edges so everything slides easy.
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04-21-2016, 06:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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If it's a bag awning by Shademaker you may find that water gets in the bag when the awning is rolled in. I've had that problem and know a couple others that have too. Now I slide the awning off when not using it. I put our rail on with rivets.
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04-21-2016, 05:49 PM
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#4
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Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 95
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I have one of them c channels on my Trillium Trailer which was revetted on before I bought it 8 years ago .
Just a tip :
I have to watch the c channel once in a while after a few years as it tends to spread open and the awning will slip out . I lost my awning , it shot out into the ocean on the confederate bridge going over to PEI a couple years ago . I closed up the channel a bit with 2 vice grips bit by bit down the channel which did the trick before I installed the new awning ( not cheap)
__________________
Dave and Elinor
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04-21-2016, 06:05 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Shademaker's directions say to put a screw through each end of the channel and through the awning rib
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04-27-2016, 07:28 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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Thanks, I do want to avoid putting screws or rivets into the fiberglass.
This is the awning we bought:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/shade-maker...x?skuId=272680
It is 8 feet wide but our scamp can only accommodate about a 6 1/2 foot rail before it bends down, so we are planning on trimming the awning.
Still not sure about whether to remove the ridges from the aluminum.
After reading a lot of not very clear info, I ended up purchasing this vhb 5952 1.5 inch wide tape on ebay: http://amzn.to/244rmsk
I'm hoping it will work ok without needing to sand down the ridges or use rivets.
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04-27-2016, 09:59 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lake_Mich_Scamp
Still not sure about whether to remove the ridges from the aluminum.
After reading a lot of not very clear info, I ended up purchasing this vhb 5952 1.5 inch wide tape on ebay: Robot Check
I'm hoping it will work ok without needing to sand down the ridges or use rivets.
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Hugh, did you go to the 3M site to read up on what VHB tape is used on and the demo videos? So many different tape #'s for certain apps. Everything from truck bodies to the windows in Dubai's sky scrapers. Pretty tough stuff .
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05-03-2016, 11:33 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
As an alterative, you might want to source a C channel that has a flat profile like this:
Sailrite
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I think you are exactly right! Thanks, I asked my local RV place if they can order that for me instead.
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05-03-2016, 11:49 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lake_Mich_Scamp
I think you are exactly right! Thanks, I asked my local RV place if they can order that for me instead.
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Just order it from sailrite. They are a great Mom and Pop owned small business with excellent service.
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05-03-2016, 12:27 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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I would, but it is $12 shipping for this $18 part. My local place might charge a buck more but no shipping cost.
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05-03-2016, 02:30 PM
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#12
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,583
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Flat would definitely stick better. The tape you ordered is only 0.045 inches thick; your ridges are probably higher than that. Aluminum has a very high surface energy (HSE) so the tape will stick well. Follow the 3M surface prep directions if you want the tape to stick well to your trailer get coat.
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05-03-2016, 08:02 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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My parts folks said they could not order one without the ridges. Here is what she said:
"I would just use liquid nails, it’s what we do here. Never had one come off."
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05-04-2016, 09:45 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
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If this was my trailer and I only wanted to use only VHB tape. I would take a strip of steel strip like pallet straping and clamp it in the channel then used a hand held grinder or a course file and sand down the ridges until your flush with the steel strip. Toss the steel strip after you shave down the ridges. The channel was origionally there to keep the putty sealant from squeezing out all over the place. Leaving a little channel left would be a good thing.
This will make the channel lower than the VHB tape thickness. Now prep and attach.
I would not travel with an awning hanging only held in place with VHB tape. What will happen 5 to 10 years down the road when the tape gets old?
I personally drilled the rail and through bolted where the rail bolts are hidden inside interior cabinets. Where fasteners fall in open areas I used pop rivets. I used Butyl tape between the shell and the c channel. There is a good write up on this site for installing a bag awning on a 13 foot trailer. I mostly followed those instructions.
I too have an 8 foot awning on a shorter C channel. Don't trim it. It works just fine with over hanging ends.
I dont travel or store my awning hanging on the trailer I keep it inside the trailer between actual use. It stays clean and after 3 years of use still looks like new.
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05-05-2016, 10:15 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz
...use. a hand held grinder or a course file and sand down the ridges until your flush with the steel strip. This will make the channel lower than the VHB tape thickness. Now prep and attach.
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Sounds good, my wife is using a grinder right now to take the channel down to nearly flush. We'll clean it up with a file afterwards
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz
I personally drilled the rail and through bolted where the rail bolts are hidden inside interior cabinets. Where fasteners fall in open areas I used pop rivets. I used Butyl tape between the shell and the c channel. There is a good write up on this site for installing a bag awning on a 13 foot trailer. I mostly followed those instructions.
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Can anyone point me to the thread that shows how to do this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz
I too have an 8 foot awning on a shorter C channel. Don't trim it. It works just fine with over hanging ends.
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I'd love to see pics of this. Our bag awning is made of relatively stiff vinyl, I'm not sure it would work the same.
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05-05-2016, 10:33 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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05-14-2016, 11:10 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 17 ft 1986 Burro
Posts: 889
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c channel
I got mine from a camping world store. They had scrap pieces from the monsters they set up and I got about 11 feet for 8 bucks.
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05-14-2016, 11:42 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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I ended up grinding down the edge on the back, it was pretty easy, going to put it on with tape and see what happens. Even though it is May, the weather here is still cold and rainy most days, so we have not tried putting it on yet.
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05-19-2016, 01:40 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Name: Hugh
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 12
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as of today we've had the tape on the rail for 24 hours and will be going out and putting the rail on the camper later today.
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05-19-2016, 02:10 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lake_Mich_Scamp
as of today we've had the tape on the rail for 24 hours and will be going out and putting the rail on the camper later today.
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Is there a reason for the 24 hour wait? Sorry I have not read the instructions.
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