Cabinet door stays

[Johnny M]

Okay, my wife has insisted I add some hardware to our upper cabinets that I built so that the doors will stay up when they are accessed. My doors are made with 1x2 frames with plywood inset in the center of the frame and the face frames are also built from 1x2 construction. What have you used? Pictures would be great!

She also wants something to keep her things from sliding forward on the long street side cabinet when the other cabinets are emptied but I don't want anything permanent there but not a plastic tote either. A removable partition was one idea, a 1x1 cleat on the shelf was another thought...Don't really want plastic containers as they will limit the capacity for packing clothes in there and the containers could slide as well.

[Johnny M]

Also, I might add that I don't want any piston type assist or spring loaded types that could cause the doors to open when in tow...

[Steve L.]

The door has a normal (for Casita) door latch. This spring can't open the door on its own.


I think one of those refrigerator spring bars would work to keep things spilling out of this particular storage location.

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by Steve L.

The door has a normal (for Casita) door latch. This spring can't open the door on its own.


I think one of those refrigerator spring bars would work to keep things spilling out of this particular storage location.

Is this something I can find Home Depot?

[Glenn Baglo]

I tried those spring loaded bars. Maybe mine were just cheap, but I tried everything to make them secure. Then I tossed them and went with a bungee cord.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

I tried those spring loaded bars. Maybe mine were just cheap, but I tried everything to make them secure. Then I tossed them and went with a bungee cord.

FYI you can increase the tension my turning the the parts, they screw together.
Also by pushing everything the back so they can't move keeps everything is place. Basic High School Science (a body in motion will stay in motion until something stops it. The trick is not let those thing go in motion) That hold true for all things in the trailer or the tow.
I've used them for over 11 years and never had a problem. You gotta know how they work and how to use them.
In case you never looked large truck use something like the fridge bars only much larger to keep their load from shifting around.

[Glenn Baglo]

I extended the bars as far as possible. I cut an X in the rubber cups at each end so that the plastic stops I installed each side of the cabinet would fit inside. Still didn't work.
What did work is a 1/4" X 1/4" piece of moulding, glued to the bottom of the shelf. It prevented cans and such from sliding far enough to hit the door. Oh, and a bungee.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Also, I might add that I don't want any piston type assist or spring loaded types that could cause the doors to open when in tow...

No matter what you do, lift assist or no lift assist you still need to have a good catch on the door to prevent it from coming open when in tow. Which means that adding a gas spring lift that holds the door up when it is open won't change your situation other than assisting in opening the door and holding it open. So just make sure you install a good catch as it is the most critical factor in this situation where cabinets come open when underway. But it is also good to have some kind of restraint for the contents so that when you do open the door the contents don't spill out.

[EricAllyn]

A suggestion for the upper cabnates to keep stuff from slidding around would be to drill small !/4" holes like you finde in some bookshelves. Then a small piece of dowel will be able to keep a basket from slidding.

[wbullivant]

I'm converting a camper to a van. To secure my cabinet doors and drawers I'm using a Stanley surface bolt 80-0005 / CD4060. They are $5.18 each on Amazon but I was lucky to find them at Lee Valley Tools on clearance for $1 each. I've attached a pic of drawer & doors that have them installed. Just checked Lee Valley and they still have some - look in hardware for special offers and sale items.

[Markz]

I installed child locks on all my cabinets and they work great. The ones the use a magnetic key.
I also use the spring as pictured above to keep my cabinet opened.

[Markz]

This is what we use.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Also, I might add that I don't want any piston type assist or spring loaded types that could cause the doors to open when in tow...

I thought about gas struts, but seeing the inside of the trailer can be very cold when not heated up here, I thought their performance might be compromised. Spring loaded struts when properly installed will not pop open when driving. I used JR Products 70555. They work great. You can pick them up at most any RV parts store.

[Markz]

I purchased those same struts but because my cabinet is the oeiginal fiberglass I decided against using them due to the pressure they transfered to the cabinet frame when closing the door. Your cabinet frame looks to be made from wood. That's the perfect application for them.

The springs I used bend easily with a little push in the middle but are quite sturdy when fully extended.

[Jan Dyke]

get a couple of yoga mats, cut them to size to fit the bottom of the cabinet. Works like a charm
Jan

[tractors1]

Then there are the custom dividers stuck to a velcro tape on the bottom of the cabinet. Just move them where you want. U-shaped single piece or L shaped (bookends style.)

[Paul O.]

The top cabinet doors in our Scamp have friction hinges that have a flat spot that helps keep them closed. When opened, they would only stay half way and the corners were at a perfect height to make dents in my skull. I did not want additional hardware, and ended up taking the hinges off and filing a second flat on the hinge pin, in the open position. Now they stay in the fully open position, flat against the ceiling, and no more dents in my noggin.

As afar as keeping the drawers closed while traveling, I have a long piece of closed cell foam (saved from some shipping package) that gets wedged between the left and right side of the galley, to keep all four drawers tight.

[Gerry]

Instead of spring loaded curtain rods they make some that expand by turning and these work great when place in front of items so they wont fall out

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by tractors1

Then there are the custom dividers stuck to a velcro tape on the bottom of the cabinet. Just move them where you want. U-shaped single piece or L shaped (bookends style.)

Charlie I like those will have to check them out!

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Charlie I like those will have to check them out!

Email me through the bottom of the home page of the website. Haven't made a template to fit the roof curvature of your trailers before.