Campster sliding window part - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:18 AM   #1
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Name: Kelly
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Campster sliding window part

I could use some help from other Campster owners. My sliding windows on the sides are missing some parts. I have no handle on the edge of the inside moving window for opening and closing the window. I also need to get some new gaskets and felt for it.

As I am going to be removing the windows very soon so I can paint the exterior it would be a good time to for me to refurbish those windows. Any information you can give me on where to get replacement materials, what company made the windows and a photo of the window pull/latch would be very helpful. Most especially at this time a photo of that edge of the inside glass with a latch/pull on it would be very much appreciated.

There does not seem to be a photo on the forum that shows the inside of the windows or information about what company made the windows used in the Campsters. So it would be nice if we could get this information documented by working together on it.

Thanks,
Karin
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:24 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
I could use some help from other Campster owners. My sliding windows on the sides are missing some parts. I have no handle on the edge of the inside moving window for opening and closing the window. I also need to get some new gaskets and felt for it.

As I am going to be removing the windows very soon so I can paint the exterior it would be a good time to for me to refurbish those windows. Any information you can give me on where to get replacement materials, what company made the windows and a photo of the window pull/latch would be very helpful. Most especially at this time a photo of that edge of the inside glass with a latch/pull on it would be very much appreciated.

There does not seem to be a photo on the forum that shows the inside of the windows or information about what company made the windows used in the Campsters. So it would be nice if we could get this information documented by working together on it.

Thanks,
Karin
I have zero knowledge on windows or parts for your Campster, but I am in the process of ordering some replacement parts for our 1982 Scamp windows and have found this website to have the parts that I need:

Vintage Trailer Supply - parts and supplies for vintage travel trailers and campers!

Perhaps they would have some of the items you are looking for? They specialize in hard to find parts for vintage trailers. Best of luck and hopefully someone who knows more than I will chime in and offer more real help!
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:40 AM   #3
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I have zero knowledge on windows or parts for your Campster, but I am in the process of ordering some replacement parts for our 1982 Scamp windows and have found this website to have the parts that I need:

Vintage Trailer Supply - parts and supplies for vintage travel trailers and campers!

Perhaps they would have some of the items you are looking for? They specialize in hard to find parts for vintage trailers. Best of luck and hopefully someone who knows more than I will chime in and offer more real help!
Thanks, I have looked at the vintage trailer supply online store. Vintage trailer supply parts are primarily for very early trailers and the latest years they focus on is 1960 and there is nothing there that works for me.
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Old 06-01-2016, 10:17 AM   #4
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I wonder if Dave has any suggestions that may help you with your windows. He had a CampStar: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...ite-24848.html
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Old 06-01-2016, 10:57 AM   #5
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No help here except that mine doesn't have handles, either, and they need something as they don't slide well, but I'm afraid to do it! So will follow what you do with interest.
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Old 06-01-2016, 12:05 PM   #6
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No help here except that mine doesn't have handles, either, and they need something as they don't slide well, but I'm afraid to do it! So will follow what you do with interest.
I think I have figured out a solution for the handles. I will use some VHB tape that has a thin foam center to mount a small, light gauge, aluminum angle piece directly to the glass. It will look very nice when finished and function just fine for long term use. I will post photos when it gets done. The list of things to do grows longer by the minute.

Now I just need to find some track liner and new gaskets. I think my local RV store can help with those. They have a guy in the repair department who has seen lots of old RV windows and really knows the parts for the gaskets. I won't do the track liner until I take the windows out so I can paint the shell. So it will be a while before I get that part done.
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Old 06-01-2016, 12:27 PM   #7
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Campster Windows

It will be a day or 2, but I will take a hard look at the windows on the inside of my Campster and report what I find.. I will take pictures if you like. In fact if you need Campster pictures of any kind, just let me know. Be happy to help.
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Old 06-01-2016, 02:41 PM   #8
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It will be a day or 2, but I will take a hard look at the windows on the inside of my Campster and report what I find.. I will take pictures if you like. In fact if you need Campster pictures of any kind, just let me know. Be happy to help.
Thanks Roger,
I have seen on the internet some new window track liners that are silicone instead of the old felt. I am hoping to find some of those that will work for a replacement upgrade. My originals have 46 years worth of UV rot damage.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:23 PM   #9
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After measuring my glass channel dimensions to verify that the product would indeed fit I went ahead and ordered a fuzzy window track liner. It is offered by Vintage Trailers which is where I placed my order for VTS-278 Fuzzy Glass Channel for Airstream Classic & Revcon MHs Research turned up this material was also used in the 1960's and very early 1970 as auto window glass run channel. You know when you rolled up your car window it went into that lined channel along the sides and top that sealed out the air and kept it from rattling. This stuff is the modern replacement for that era. Because it is also an auto window glass part you can purchase it from J.C.. Whitney as well but it is only a few cents cheaper from them.

I also order one more part, on the upright divider that is on the inside of the window there is a fuzzy weather strip piece. When I took the aluminum divider out to get a good look at it and touched the material to check its condition all the fuzz fell off onto the floor. It is another one of the universal auto glass materials but it too was used to make trailer windows.
That material is Vintage Trailer Supply part:
VTS-277 Pile Weatherstripping for Airstream Classic MHs

This is going to be an expensive rejuvination to get those windows functional again! So far just for this one purchase it was a little over $80.00 plus shipping. Of course I still need the outside gaskets and there is the cost of butyl tape as well.

Plus I need to fabricate a spacer ring for the inside. I had removed the felted wall liner the other night. There was an additional piece of material used in a ring right under the clamp frame. That material was just the old style grey felted carpet padding one would have found in a home. Not sure what I will make the spacer from, maybe one of the pieces of plastics we have lots of scraps of in the workshop. It can be cut on the tablesaw and it won't rot the way plywood might if a leak develops. Good to use up scraps and have it turn out better than new
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Old 06-06-2016, 09:28 PM   #10
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I'm following this with great interests since I have a "new-to-me" Campster and will need to replace the window track liner. I managed to get the windows to slide but in the process most of the fuzzy stuff is gone...

While we're talking about Campster windows, does anyone know what they used for screens? Mine doesn't have any screens and not even a frame for a screen. Was there a frame or did they just use really fat spline?

I was thinking (once I got the windows open) that window screens would be nice...
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Elizabeth EWA View Post
I'm following this with great interests since I have a "new-to-me" Campster and will need to replace the window track liner. I managed to get the windows to slide but in the process most of the fuzzy stuff is gone...

While we're talking about Campster windows, does anyone know what they used for screens? Mine doesn't have any screens and not even a frame for a screen. Was there a frame or did they just use really fat spline?

I was thinking (once I got the windows open) that window screens would be nice...
I have no idea if there ever were any window screens but I do know there is no place to put a screen spline in the existing window frame.

It would of course be possible to fabricate something that works. The windows look to have a 3 inch corner radius which is one of the standard sizes. For my own project I will likely do an RV junkyard prowl and find screens that are too large but have that same corner radius size and them cut the straight framing component pieces down to size. Then put in new screening and of course new spline. I can easily create some retaining clips to hold the completed screens in place.

Window screens are very low on my priorities list at the moment as I am not in a mosquito zone while doing the renovation work. Getting the interior fuzzy pieces put in is high priority as I want to do it when I take the windows out during the painting the exterior phase.
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:29 PM   #12
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I took a quick look at the windows and discovered that window pulls are glued to the glass. They seem to be simple L shaped pulls. I also discovered that my front window is broken. It looks like it might be a stress fracture which covers a small part of the corner. It is a semi circular break with a radius of about 4 inches. I am thinking that I will replace the glass with an acrylic or polycarbonate I welcome opinions and suggestions.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by rwilhelm View Post
I took a quick look at the windows and discovered that window pulls are glued to the glass. They seem to be simple L shaped pulls. I also discovered that my front window is broken. It looks like it might be a stress fracture which covers a small part of the corner. It is a semi circular break with a radius of about 4 inches. I am thinking that I will replace the glass with an acrylic or polycarbonate I welcome opinions and suggestions.
Easy decision...you definetly want to use polycarbonate, it is impact resistant, acrylic is not. But if you can find it and afford the extra premium price you will want polycarbonate that is has extra hard coating on the surfaces for scratch resistance and is UV resistant too. Such as this product, Abrasion Resistant Polycarbonate Sheet There are other makers and sellers of polycarbonate with these kinds of specs but I wanted to give you an example of what to look for if you are going to have a pane made.

Window Handle...Glued to glass installation explains why the pulls have gone missing while leaving no evidence behind Photo please so I know where it was positioned? I have the VHB tape and aluminum angle ready to go.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:57 PM   #14
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Thanks for the heads up on the polycarbonate. I will be looking for extra hard/UV filtering. I will get you some detailed pictures of the window pulls as soon as I can, but I think it will be day or 2. Also, when I post the window pictures, I will include my pride and joy.

Rog
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:00 PM   #15
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I took some measurements of the gap between the inside clamp ring and the fiberglass shell. It is measuring right at 1/4" thickness. So today at Lowes I purchased some 1/4 thick PVC lumber that is about 1-1/2' wide and is described on the label as "Lattice". This material is easy to rip to width on the tablesaw so one 8' length of it will make 16' worth of spacer material.

I don't think plywood is a good clamp ring material. Sure it will space it out from the wall but if you ever get a leak all that end grain is going to pull the water right into the material and delaminate the plwood. That will not happen to the PVC lumber because it is waterproof. While PVC lumber is not considered to be a structural material (as in load bearing) it is certainly sufficiently strong enough to act as a spacer under the clamp ring without causing damage to the skin or the windows and it should last the lifetime of your Campster because it won't rot or get moldy even if you do get a leak. You can adhere it to the shell with a caulking adhesive product that sticks to PVC as they will also typically stick to fiberglass. But be sure you check to make sure of that.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:48 PM   #16
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Wow. That stuff is a bit expensive. I assume the glass must be about 3/16 or better thick, so that puts the polycarbonate replacement well over a $100 bucks plus labor. I can probably install the window myself, but I don't have the tools for cutting and shaping the new window. I WILL be doing some serious shopping.

Again THANKS
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:32 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by rwilhelm View Post
Wow. That stuff is a bit expensive. I assume the glass must be about 3/16 or better thick, so that puts the polycarbonate replacement well over a $100 bucks plus labor. I can probably install the window myself, but I don't have the tools for cutting and shaping the new window. I WILL be doing some serious shopping.

Again THANKS
You can use standard polycarbonate, it will just scratch more easily and eventually might get some crazing.

I have tinted polycarbonate front windows on my Sunrader, they predate the hardened acrylic that is UV resistant. There are even some rock chips in them and a few cracks. I used a tiny drill at the end of the crack and then with a very small detail artist brush put some Weldon acrylic solvent in the cracks and in the little drill hole and also in the center cracks of the rock chips. Good to go for another 20 years Those two front windows are $300 bucks each plus shipping for a pre-made replacement as they bend around the corner in a radius. Only one company in California is making those replacements for the Sunraders and they don't use premium quality polycarbonate. In the summer time while parked I tape Reflectix over the outside of those windows to keep the heat out of the RV and to keep the UV damage to a minimum.
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:26 PM   #18
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campster window screens

just adding some quick information to this thread. With the help of other forum members we have figured out how the side windows were screened at the factory. On the interior of the side window there is a spline groove in the center divider. The rest of the spline groove can only be seen and accessed by removing the clamp ring. Here is what the window frame looks like under the clamp ring. You will need to use individual segments of spline between the clamp ring screw locations to hold the screening in place.
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Old 06-17-2016, 05:04 PM   #19
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Name: Kelly
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
After measuring my glass channel dimensions to verify that the product would indeed fit I went ahead and ordered a fuzzy window track liner. It is offered by Vintage Trailers which is where I placed my order for VTS-278 Fuzzy Glass Channel for Airstream Classic & Revcon MHs Research turned up this material was also used in the 1960's and very early 1970 as auto window glass run channel. You know when you rolled up your car window it went into that lined channel along the sides and top that sealed out the air and kept it from rattling. This stuff is the modern replacement for that era. Because it is also an auto window glass part you can purchase it from J.C.. Whitney as well but it is only a few cents cheaper from them.

I also order one more part, on the upright divider that is on the inside of the window there is a fuzzy weather strip piece. When I took the aluminum divider out to get a good look at it and touched the material to check its condition all the fuzz fell off onto the floor. It is another one of the universal auto glass materials but it too was used to make trailer windows.
That material is Vintage Trailer Supply part:
VTS-277 Pile Weatherstripping for Airstream Classic MHs

This is going to be an expensive rejuvination to get those windows functional again! So far just for this one purchase it was a little over $80.00 plus shipping. Of course I still need the outside gaskets and there is the cost of butyl tape as well.

Plus I need to fabricate a spacer ring for the inside. I had removed the felted wall liner the other night. There was an additional piece of material used in a ring right under the clamp frame. That material was just the old style grey felted carpet padding one would have found in a home. Not sure what I will make the spacer from, maybe one of the pieces of plastics we have lots of scraps of in the workshop. It can be cut on the tablesaw and it won't rot the way plywood might if a leak develops. Good to use up scraps and have it turn out better than new
I am now working on replacing the pile weatherstrip that the window glass slides in. The name for it is "window glass run channel". I did purchase the material from Vintage Trailer supply, see quoted product information above. This product sort of works, it does fit into the aluminum frame...with some strong persuasion. The glass, which is 3/16" thick in case wondered about that, does fit between the felt..but you can't slide the glass because the channel binds it up with a too tight fit distance wise across the glass. That means I can't get the window frame itself to meet at the cut edges for putting the rivets back into it. So basically it was a failed installation of new felting.

But I did need to make that rubber felt channel filler work. I had to make it work because I did not want to return the material to Vintage Trailer. There was nothing wrong with the product other than my Campster not having enough space next to the glass for that product. I entered into the "what if?" phase where you try to figure out how to make what you have work for you. I am not saying anyone should do what I describe below. Your renovation would be easier if you found a better fitting material. But since I had used up my budget my only choice was to make do with what I had.

If you look at the product photo you will see there are small projections of rubber on each side at the base. Those can (with effort) be pushed into the aluminum channel which has some small projecting ribs along its length. The rubber projections lock under that small aluminum rib in the channel. But what was happening was that the force of that compression on the width of the rubber base was of forcing the bottom height of the rubber upwards and that meant the window was then too wide for the width between the felt channels and it could not be slid back and forth. Another issue was the projecting rubber flange would not fit under the aluminum ribs as it went around the curves at the end of the window frame. That of course kept the glass from being able to seat properly in the channel when the window was closed. As you take the felt channel around the curve it will already make the felt edge bunch up around the curve so that issue is further multiplied. Oh well, I will sort that issue out too.

For the modification I did the following, along the sides I trimmed off the projecting bit of the rubber "fingers". But now that it was no longer being compressed width wise which made the bottom thicker and taller the glass was now too loose in the channel as it was wider than optimal and the glass wanted to fall out. ....Oh yeah life is like that, fix one thing and the next thing happens . So then I had to snug the felt channel back up against the glass by adhering in a filler strip at the bottom of the aluminum window frame. I chose the bottom for the filler strip because of gravity and the weight of the glass working to my advantage to keep it in place along with a little bit of adhesive of course. I did not extend that filler strip on into the curved areas or up the sides. It only at the flat lower edge of the frame. I made the filler strip 3/8" wide so that it fit down between the ribs in the aluminum channel of the frame. The thickness needed for a filler is right around 3/16" maybe a little under. That is one of those you have to try it and see situations as your frame height top to bottom might be slightly different than mine. So now the glass fits nicely into the channel and it slides with only a small amount of pressure needed to drag the glass along in the channel. You do want a small amount of friction as that means the drafts won't come in.

One sliding window made operable again another one to go. I will put a better description of the modifications of the felt channel with photos in my Campster modification thread when I work on that second window.

I still have the issue of the seal strip covers that are along the outside to resolve. No doubt when I find something it too will also require modification to adapt it for use on the Campster.
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Old 06-19-2016, 05:11 PM   #20
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See this little bitty thing in the photo below that is made of plastic and is 1 inch long, just under 3/8" wide and only 3/16" high on the two side legs of the U channel? There are exactly two of them in bottom of the aluminum window frame channel and their job is keeping the fixed pane of glass in the side windows off of the bottom of the channel so that water can get out the weep holes. I have it upside down in the photo, they are installed with the legs down so water can run underneath them. If that thin plastic fractures the glass pane will then slide down against the channel as that is all the support that pane of glass is getting. Yes indeed my little U channels are starting to fracture. I will machine replacement parts out of some Delrin plastic I have on hand. I absolutely do have to replace them before the window glass can be reinstalled as those pieces could break apart at any time.

Guess how else that fixed glass pane is held in place? Look Ma no glue on me! The glass holding is only being done by that worn out, shrunken in size after 45 years or so, exterior weather strip seal that is pushing against the pane. ...

There I go, grumbling about the windows again... Does your fixed pane window rattle? Now you know why, it is just floating around in the aluminum channel resting on those two little inch long pieces off plastic.
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