Cannot depress knob to fire up propane for fridge - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:54 AM   #21
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I'm wondering if the knob isn't stuck down. Is there any clearance between the bottom of the knob and the panel? I'm thinking that either the mechanism is stuck in the depressed position, or the knob is installed too far down on the shaft.
If its gummed up could be either or both. Rather than WD40 I would suggest a small amount of sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 oil which is light and increased the gummed up situation.
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:12 PM   #22
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Name: Rose
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Dometic frig knob won't depress

Try turning the propane on before depressing the knob.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:42 PM   #23
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I also have a 2193. The knob in question is part of the gas flow safety system. When the burner is lit, a thermocouple heats up and produces a voltage that holds the safety valve open. If the flame goes out, the voltage goes away closing the valve and stopping the flow of gas. To light the burner the safety valve is bypassed by pressing the knob. If the knob is stuck then the safety valve may also be damaged. My suggestion is to find a service tech to get the safety valve replaced or at the very least tested. Raz
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Minimalist View Post
I'm wondering if the knob isn't stuck down. Is there any clearance between the bottom of the knob and the panel? I'm thinking that either the mechanism is stuck in the depressed position, or the knob is installed too far down on the shaft.
I was thinking that too. It looks stuck in the UP position.
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:41 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
If its gummed up could be either or both. Rather than WD40 I would suggest a small amount of sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 oil which is light and increased the gummed up situation.
Thanks. I have some penetrating oil (aerosol) used to unstick rusted car parts.

I'll put that up there like WD-40 as suggested.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:49 PM   #26
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Thanks. I have some penetrating oil (aerosol) used to unstick rusted car parts.

I'll put that up there like WD-40 as suggested.
WD40 is great for temporary fixes but for long term it can create a problem. It wouldn't surprise that previous owner had used WD40 in an attempt to keep the knob working smoothly, but it did the opposite.
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Old 08-21-2017, 09:15 PM   #27
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My attempt with penetrating oil has not worked any wonders .

I called Dometic today, and from the description of the problem Dometic believes it is the valve ($150 + $25 shipping).

I found a tech that can look at it (hopefully) next week.

I'll post what he finds, and what it takes to put this back together for the next person with the issue.
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Old 08-22-2017, 06:02 AM   #28
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mine did the same thing. It had built up a gum around the stem and froze up.
I removed it and took it all apart and very carefully cleaned it up and put a few drops of wax free oil around the stem and it has worked fine for a few more years now.
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:58 PM   #29
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mine did the same thing. It had built up a gum around the stem and froze up.
I removed it and took it all apart and very carefully cleaned it up and put a few drops of wax free oil around the stem and it has worked fine for a few more years now.
Interesting. You took the knob off as well as removed the valve from the bracket?

I could not find any instructions on this, so I did not try. id you find any instructions, or did you just work through it?

Do you remember if the knob just pulls right off, or is there another trick?

Thanks !
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:14 AM   #30
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Yes, the knobs just pull off and the spark light has a nut behind it that unscrews and then the metal bracket is held on with screws. The valve stem is held in place with the two screws. After I got it apart I sprayed it with penetrating oil and, with the knob, I worked the stem slowly until it was free. I then soaked it in some solvent, wiped it with a clean cloth and put some wax free oil on the stem (3in1) and then put it all back together. Even though the valve interior is not I the gas stream I still checked all the joints for leaks.
I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-45801-H...+leak+detector

It will find a very small leak. Read the directions.
This is what I did and it worked. Be gentle and take your time. Take some pics as you go in case you get confused about reassembly.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:01 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by cmartin748 View Post
Yes, the knobs just pull off and the spark light has a nut behind it that unscrews and then the metal bracket is held on with screws. The valve stem is held in place with the two screws. After I got it apart I sprayed it with penetrating oil and, with the knob, I worked the stem slowly until it was free. I then soaked it in some solvent, wiped it with a clean cloth and put some wax free oil on the stem (3in1) and then put it all back together. Even though the valve interior is not I the gas stream I still checked all the joints for leaks.
I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-45801-H...+leak+detector

It will find a very small leak. Read the directions.
This is what I did and it worked. Be gentle and take your time. Take some pics as you go in case you get confused about reassembly.


Well, we just got our Scamp back from the RV Repair man, and he did exactly what you described @cmartin748 (for a fee of course). I guess I was afraid to try it on my own, but I should have tried. Good news is the part alone is $150 + $25 shipping, so what you described is definitely the best thing to try. He said that when the knob is not used a lot, this will happen.

Either way - it is working great right now !

If it happens again, I am definitely trying this on my own next time !

Thank you !
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:39 AM   #32
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Glad to be of some help anyway. I'm glad that you found someone to fix it. So many of these repair places won't make any attempt.
CM
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Old 09-11-2017, 10:22 AM   #33
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Glad you got it working. Back to your earlier comment about it automatically turning on and off: it doesn't. The propane heat source is either H, M, or L, depending on how you set it depending on ambient temperature. Also, the 12 volt setting is either on or off. Only the 110 AC is thermostatically controlled.

The fridge in our '06 still works great and I keep it on with AC most of the summer with beer in it. That way it's always ready for a camping trip, or that's what I try to tell my wife.
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