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Old 05-16-2012, 12:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry

I know. It sounds like a removal of an error would be awful. Very scary. I'm constructing a stand alone structure for the awning today to see if that could be an option.
Well, the stand alone is not going to work for me. Rats. It either glue or holes.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:25 PM   #22
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String chalk line reel to get straight. Any home building supply would have them or a hardware store. Less than $10 typically. Small hand held box with wind up handle for string inside. Box has colored chalk dust in it, you pull string out end of box dusted with chalk and stretch string in tight straight line. Hold against surface to be marked and "snap" the line, leaves a colored chalk line dusted on the surface that is "string straight".

Best when used between two measured marks and easier to do with two people. But have taped one end of string before to snap line solo.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:28 PM   #23
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So how do you know the 2 ends are perfectly straight/level before you snap the line? A laser level or something? There is some sort of contraption for hanging pix straight, wonder if that would work.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:52 PM   #24
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So how do you know the 2 ends are perfectly straight/level before you snap the line? A laser level or something? There is some sort of contraption for hanging pix straight, wonder if that would work.
String will make straight line if it's tight (tight string is always straight) but level or square is a horse of a different color. Your trailer must be level front to back to get any level line on the side.

Those pix straight contraptions use a laser light to give a straight line but have to be positioned level. Some have a bubble level in them but not all. The others assume you did a level line and will position the laser line on your short existing line and the laser light will extend it. Not sure how well they would work on the curved surface of some FGRV's.

I use a bubble level (3 or 4ft long) to make a couple of marks that are level then hold the string on one mark and have wife holding other end of string tight move string back and forth just above the surface until it's over the second mark. Then have her push her end to the surface. And snap.

If the line made hits both marks made with level then whole line is level. Of course trailer itself would have to be level when you made your marks for the string to follow.

On a scamp you might measure up from the belly band at two points about 3 ft apart and make two marks to guide the string. Or some other feature that runs in a straight line. Like the middle seam on the roof of some FGRV's.

You are really interested in having the canopy appear level so once you have your chalk line stand back and look at it in relation to door and windows etc. Don't like how it looks? Wash it off with a rag and try again.

You could even consider measuring up from the top of a window to get two marks. If canopy line visually matches the top of the window line and the window lines up visually with the the top line of the door , then it would all look level.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:53 PM   #25
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Eyeball it, then mark two points and snap a line.

Walk around and look at it for while. If you don't like it, figure out which end point should be higher or lower and by how much and do it again.

Repeat as needed.

When you are finished the project will be perfect no matter what anyone says because you did it yourself.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:55 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
Getting it straight is scary, but I'm thinking erasable marker. I'm another of those people that never hangs stuff once - so I'd better be positive! I've found a couple of local places that sell the tape so I'm hoping to get someone who has used it.

I made the awning, so thank you! Thank goodness for seam rippers! I sew like I hang stuff. (Sew,rip,sew,rip) <_<
I'm not sure if was on this site, or Scampers Yahoo site, but somebody used 3M VHB to attach a solar panel to the roof of their trailer. Last report it was still there.
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:12 PM   #27
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Really not much different than DW having me hang a picture, she stands back and says "little higher on the left" so I push it up a bit on the left. What my bubble level has to say about "true" level has nothing to do with how it looks to her.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:45 PM   #28
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I can say " wish you were here" and really, really mean it! I'm going to order the vhb tape from amazon tonight. If it'll hold a solar panel it should hold an awning rail.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:20 AM   #29
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I do remember someone using the tape for a solar panel too, maybe Norm? You could always use the suction cups that the bus depot uses on their awnings. Here is a link for those who missed it.http://busdepot.com/details/awning.jsp
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:33 AM   #30
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I can say " wish you were here" and really, really mean it! I'm going to order the vhb tape from amazon tonight. If it'll hold a solar panel it should hold an awning rail.
I'm sure when you are done you will sit back under your very nice awning and enjoy both the functionality and the satisfaction from having taken on a challenge successfully.
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:33 AM   #31
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as another note about the strength of the tape, GoPro uses 3M VHB on their sticky back camera mounts. While the camera isn't really what you would consider heavy, they hold the thing pretty much rock solid in high speeds (personally used at 70mph on the outside of a car, seen video shot doing things like skydiving, where you can be going upwards of 120mph during freefall).
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:37 PM   #32
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Great information Tabitha. I've ordered the stuff, now I will expect fiberglass fans across the nation to have their fingers crossed in a show of unity!
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:19 AM   #33
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My Developing Solution

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Last night my hubby and I attached the 3M tape to coat hooks at put them on the Burro. 3M said to let it sit for 72 hours, but I couldn't stand waiting - so this morning I put on the pv pipe frame. We used 1/2" pipe and put in wooden doweling to firm it up then put rubber caps on the two legs. Keep in mind this is as yet unproven. Who knows what a good gust of wind will do. Next to the sewing machine to sew a bunch of shoe laces on for ties.

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Okay. It is right side up in my original ... I have no idea why this is upside down, but I cannot seem to fix it. Sorry. Stand on your head?
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:32 AM   #34
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I have a Uhaul (same hull construction as the Burro) and agonized for a year as to how to connect my awning without drilling. In the long run, I just didn't trust using just the tape alone. Plus the 3m structural vhb tape (the really strong stuff that they stick windows onto skyscrapers with) was very expensive. (There appears to be various levels of 'sticky'?) Anyway, I felt better using additional mechanical fasterners so I used an exterior grade adhesive tape from my local big box store, and then pop-riveted through it. The first hole was the hardest (mentally) to drill through the hull, but after that, it was simple. I figure that this is an easy item to monitor and keep caulked and I don't worry that my awning will get pulled off the side of the trailer in a sudden high wind. I'm just too much of a worry wart so I played it very safe. I'm really interested in this new awningattachment works out, thinkgin it might be a good way to attach a secondary 'shade' awning for the back of my trailer....
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:33 PM   #35
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Hi Pam, our awning isn't a nifty new one - it's an old fashion thing. I needed something inexpensive (it really didn't work out that way with fabric and parts but I had a ton of fun doing it anyhow) and fairly easy for me to set up alone. When I am traveling all I have is three hooks running on the fiberglass roof. If they fail, it won't be when I'm traveling. I did use the tape 3m suggested. It's the VHB heavy duty mounting tape. The smallest I could find was a 15 yard roll on EBay for $35 or so.

If you are on the west coast somewhere - that's where I'll be traveling this summer - I can share if you are interested after checking it out.
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:33 PM   #36
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Sue, I'm in Michigan, a bit too far away to personally see your trailer. But your closeup photo cleared up any confusion about how the attachement works. Very ingenious ! Installing hooks that way might be an option for many things from attaching a shade awning on the roof, to a smaller awning above my back window. Thanks for the additional photo!
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:12 AM   #37
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[QUOTE=Sue and Henry;310629] I did use the tape 3m suggested. It's the VHB heavy duty mounting tape. The smallest I could find was a 15 yard roll on EBay for $35 or so.
QUOTE]


Sue, so how is the tape holding up? Been chomping at the bit to get a awning project going, but I am still struggleing to figure away to attach awning rail..... So I am hopeing your 3m is holding up well! Because that will make my project so easy peasy! Feedback please............
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:14 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I have experience with the 4991 series, it's the gray stuff.
Byron, was that a typo? the link you provided refers to the 4941 family.

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Originally Posted by melissab View Post
How do you make sure you get the 3M VHB tape on straight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
Getting it straight is scary, but I'm thinking erasable marker.
I would use the awning rail to mark the trailer using a pencil. To get it straight use the awning rail to measure equal distances from the raised portion of the roof towards the front and rear while marking where you want the beginning and end to be positioned. Then using 2 people, I would apply the tape to the awning rail and then seat the rail to the marks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
For those who want to know: I called the help line at 3m for the application of of their VHB tape. For my application, she said no. 5952 would be what I want.
That is interesting, when I read the info on the link Byron provided earlier; the 5952 mentions metal and various plastics, while the 4941 says it is for outdoor and harsh enviormental applications. To me the roof of our trailers more closely matches the latter.

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I would think if you had leftover yards you might be able to work something out with other people ...
I'd be aminicable to something like that. Pay for what's left plus shipping, use what you need and have the next person do the same. Then again there is enough stuff around the trailer, home and office that I could find uses for it.
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:24 PM   #39
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Robin,

Sue shared a piece of her tape for me to try. I did as the instructions stated, but must have done something wrong. I tried a small piece to use inside for a metal hook. Put it on the metal hanger, wanted til the next day and applied it to the interior fiberglass. After a few days gave it a try. Hung my slacks on it at night. One night it fell down. Honestly I have the most rotten luck. That hook is going to get a screw to hold it in place. Wanted to use the tape as there isn't lots of room for drilling.

I solved my awning problem. We bought a $30 sun shade on sale. Two of the four poles are not used. The shade rests on the fiberglass and is tied down to the bumpers. Tested it out on our last trip and we are happy. Only problem is that it does not reflect the sun and is warm below. Posted a picture on the Manitoba gathering thread (page 6). The Canadians came up with the plan, I just copied. Found the same shade (Northwest) on the Sears web site. We only have a 13 foot. Not sure if this way would work with larger trailer. The 9 foot square curved around our 13.

Nancy
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:48 PM   #40
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Thank You Nancy!
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