Casita Electric jack search. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-26-2018, 03:06 PM   #1
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Name: Kip
Trailer: 2003 Casita 17' SD Deluxe, Towed by '09 Honda Ridgeline.
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Casita Electric jack search.

Hello,

Got dizzy trying to search this out so will just ask the questions.

Any recommendations for an electric tongue jack for 17' Casita SD.

I don't know what shaft length to look for. If they even come in various lengths. Maybe someone has one and can give me info on the Make, model and anything else I might need.

Thanks
Kip
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:20 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Kip in Ga. View Post
Hello,
Got dizzy trying to search this out so will just ask the questions.
Any recommendations for an electric tongue jack for 17' Casita SD.
I don't know what shaft length to look for. If they even come in various lengths. Maybe someone has one and can give me info on the Make, model and anything else I might need.
Thanks Kip
Searches can go that way Kip. You may find the info you're looking for from Etrailer. They've got many videos, specs and info. Many times, after doing the web searching, I've found they had the best prices too.
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Old 06-27-2018, 09:45 AM   #3
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As I remember, the consensus on the Casita Forum for electric tongue jack is the Baker 3000 lb.
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:03 PM   #4
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Do you plan on running the wires from the battery to theelec jack outside the shell or inside the shell through the cabinets or patch in from somewhere else?

I may do something similar.

But then I may just use a battery powered drill on the top wind jack. Then you can use the drill to raise scissor jacks to stabilize.

Elect tongue jack might be a better way to go. I suspect it has a manual override or backup. I keep going back and forth so have not done either.
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:37 PM   #5
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Do you plan on running the wires from the battery to theelec jack outside the shell or inside the shell through the cabinets or patch in from somewhere else?

I may do something similar.

But then I may just use a battery powered drill on the top wind jack. Then you can use the drill to raise scissor jacks to stabilize.

Elect tongue jack might be a better way to go. I suspect it has a manual override or backup. I keep going back and forth so have not done either.
Casita uses the Atwood flipper jack stabilizers..use a rod to put up and down..no drill needed, but they can be a slight pain in the bumper if they are hard to "lock" like one of mine is..ummm.
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Old 06-27-2018, 07:56 PM   #6
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My next one will be a Barker electric tongue jack, as suggested on the Casita forum.

Mark
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Old 06-28-2018, 03:13 AM   #7
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Casita uses the Atwood flipper jack stabilizers..use a rod to put up and down..no drill needed, but they can be a slight pain in the bumper if they are hard to "lock" like one of mine is..ummm.
Yes I currently use the flipper jacks on the back of my Casita and find them both easy and convenient to use. I keep them clean and greased. I did bend one so I dropped the sliding part off, hammered it straight, reinserted and it works fine now.

But I also sometimes use scissor jacks on the front to stabilize. It would be nice to use an electric drill to raise and lower these jacks.

This seems extreme to me but some people mount scissor jacks in back, next to the flipper jacks. They don't use the flipper jacks, but don't take them off. Some also add scissor jacks to the front.

Instead I have been using those screw type portable stabilizers on the front.

I still wonder how the power cord will be run to the electric jack. A hole will have to be drilled through the hull someplace. Don't much like that idea, although there are plenty of holes in the hull os I suppose one more won't hurt...
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Old 06-28-2018, 05:36 AM   #8
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I just use a battery powered drill on the jack and stabilize.
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Old 06-28-2018, 05:57 AM   #9
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jacks

WE ordered our 2018 Indy w the FO electric TJ..works great. I'd like to buy a cover for the "head" part to protect the insides if I could find a decent one..a trash bag looks..well...trashy. I still wd rather have sissor jacks at the rear, but have no need for front sissors on a 17' TT, at least we don't see a need for it.
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:09 PM   #10
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Thanks for the replies.

Fred 762 -what is a "FO" tongue jack?

Kevin K - Have considered using the drill for the tongue jack, but it is the top crank model and haven't figured how to do that while leaving the handle in place for the hard part. Did you make a drill tool for that. Or is your jack a side crank?

Rzrbrn -I got sick of those rear flipper stabilizers from hell. My Casita sits a tad low and they would hit the ground swinging in their arc, if the camper was sitting level front to rear. So would have to lower the front nearly to the ground sometimes or dig a slow with a hand trowel for them to get out to their position. Then level the trailer again and drop the feet on the flippers. So much easier to level everything, then run the scissors down with the drill. My flippers are still attached as they are welded on.

I plan on running the front electric jack power cord into the camper closet by drilling one small hole and fishing the wire through it. Then connecting that wire to the ~hot~ wire that goes out to the power plug that connects to the truck. It is a heavy wire and the other end should be attached to the battery. The hole will be drilled through the bottom of the closet and sealed with silicone once the jack wire is in place. Although it may be possible to feed the jack wire through the same hole as the other cords are entering the closet, in the front.

MK and BD- thanks for the tip on the Barker jack. Will check that out as well as eTrailer.
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:44 PM   #11
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Thanks for the explanation of how you intend to run the wire.
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Old 06-29-2018, 06:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
Thanks for the explanation of how you intend to run the wire.
Well I'm rethinking that somewhat. Will look at the wiring diagram tomorrow , and suspect the wire inside the closet goes through a 15Amp fuse. Most jacks I've discovered have a 30 amp fuse, methinks. If both of those are true, I will be running a 12ga wire straight to the battery. Tomorrow should tell for sure.

Will post my findings as soon as I know.

thx
kip
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Old 06-29-2018, 10:36 PM   #13
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...should be able to run wire out from closet thru opening where camper/TV cable enters trailer...should be a heavy black wire in bundle under angle board, this is the main 12vdc wire from vehicle to camper...tap this wire with a 30a inline fuse(or whatever your jack calls for) and continue to the wire from jack.............
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:41 AM   #14
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Electric tongue jack

The loaded weight on the tongue while pulling is less than 1000 lbs. My Harbor Freight $200 12vdc jack works fine. The same as it did on my Scamp. The jack has a circuit breaker at the motor and also a light. The main black wire in the closet is fed from the battery. This is the same wire that feeds one side of safety disconnect brake switch 2 feet away. If you use this wire at that switch and your jack works you will know 50% of your emergency brake disconnect works.

Yes, I expect to see comments from the "experts" about that.
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:52 AM   #15
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my old Starcraft tent trailer used those same flipper stablizers, i hated them.

Last trip with the casita, I forgot the jack handle... I found its easier to stabilize the Casita by putting the tongue jack down a few turns from level, dropping the stabliizers down til they are snug against the ground when pulled outwards, then raise the tongue jack to level. do the reverse to undo the flippers, instead of whacking the lever with the handle and popping them.

I will never like those things.
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Old 06-30-2018, 07:32 AM   #16
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Been fooling with those flippers from h..l since 2011. I keep them as clean as I can and lubricated. Even have used them without lube which works about as well. And when working with them their feet are fully retracted.

One problem I have is the 2 bike carrier is the type the bike wheels sit in. Even when folded up it is still thick and I still have to work from the sides. I push the drops downs with a tool I made, but sure as the world, one or both will decide to not drop. Sometimes I can force them down with the tool and sometimes I need to lay down. Fun when the ground is wet. And even if everything goes perfect, it is often necessary to have the trailer front way low so the flippers can make their swing to fully locked open.

Got both the scissor stabilizers with speed handle for $50-$60 delivered.

It is so nice to unhook from the truck and level the camper while there. Then make one trip rearward and quickly crank the stabilizers down. Drill works great, but the speed handle is about as quick as it is more accessible.

Recon all this is age related, but so is the electric JACK!
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:43 PM   #17
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Name: Fredrick
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Jacks??

FO is the 'factory optional' electric jack.

WE have about decided to buy a couple of those $10 aluminum, screw-type, free-standing jacks..IF the friction ones carp out again..I hate those standard
pull-down things! Grrrrr....either that or buy a little sign for the door:

"if the trailer is a rockin,
don't come a knockin"
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:35 AM   #18
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Name: Kip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred762 View Post
FO is the 'factory optional' electric jack.

WE have about decided to buy a couple of those $10 aluminum, screw-type, free-standing jacks..IF the friction ones carp out again..I hate those standard
pull-down things! Grrrrr....either that or buy a little sign for the door:

"if the trailer is a rockin,
don't come a knockin"
And there ya go!

Now back to jacks. I like those aluminum free standing stabilizers too. We use them up front on the widest part of the "A" frame. Tried them at the rear, but hard to see the frame without getting "down and dirty and would require time, blah,blah. Although the bumper would have been an obvious place. Hum!

I just got hooked on the scissors when I saw a guy using them. Not even necessary to squat, just lean over for 3-10 seconds depending on the tool used.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:18 AM   #19
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Trailer: 2003 Casita 17' SD Deluxe, Towed by '09 Honda Ridgeline.
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Question Black wire fuse ?

According to the Casita Owners Manual the BLACK ~HOT~ wire runs inside the camper from the Battery to the closet.

My tracking looks like it leaves the battery box and goes to a terminal on a small 1"x1.5"ish black box attached to the battery box near the water heater . . There is a second terminal on that box with another black wire which vanishes into a cable in the floor.

I do see a what I suspect to be a section of that wire terminated on the face of the control circuit board, apparently feeding the various 15amp DC fuses and circuits. Apparently that black wire split somewhere and went forward to the closet .

QUESTIONS: Is the 20amp fuse for that black wire the black box attached to the side of the battery box?

If so, does it reset itself after an overload or would it need to be replaced.

If that isn't it, where is that fuse?

Thanks,
Kip
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:02 PM   #20
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that little 1x1.5" black box with two terminal studs is a thermal breaker that auto resets. I believe its 30A or something.
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