Change 15A breaker to 20A?

[Shaidah]

Let me start by saying that I know almost nothing about electrical work.

The problem that I'm having is that whenever I plug anything into my trailer's electrical outlet that requires moderate juice, I trip the 15A push/pull breaker switch after about 30 seconds. This has happened with an electric coffee maker and also when I tried using a small space heater.

My question is, can I just swap out the 15A switch for a 20A? Is there a better solution?

Many thanks!

[Dennis Clinton]

DO NOT JUST PUT IN A LARGER BREAKER!!!!!! You need to look at your wire size before changing the breaker size. For a 20amp breaker, you need at least 12awg wiring(if using stranded wire, I prefer 10awg). If your wiring is not the right size, your little trailer may go up in a puff of smoke!

However, in time, breakers tend to weaken, if the things you use do not pull 15amps, you may just need to put in a fresh breaker.

[Jon Vermilye]

2X on not switching breakers without also changing the wiring. A 15 amp breaker should hold for either a coffee pot or most electric heaters, however not both at the same time.

I'd also check that both the connection to the breaker & the respective neutral (white wire) are both tight. A poor connection will also cause tripping due to overheating...

[Ron in BC]

3X on not increasing the breaker size. That's akin to what they did in the old days when people placed a penny under the fuse to keep it from blowing

Ron

[Bob Miller]

I can't imagine what you are plugging in that would blow a good 15 amp breaker unless there are a lot of other loads on already. As mentioned, try replacing the existing breaker. As they age, and every time a thermal type breaker is tripped, they start deteriorating and begin to trip at a lower and lower load. Also just using a breaker as an on/off switch will, after many cycles, reduce it's tripping point.
I have seen 20 amp household breakers trip at as little as a 5-8 amp load.
Now, if you have a 2000 watt heater, or a big microwave, or an a/c running, you may also need to look at modifying your loads, not your breaker. But replace the breaker anyway, if it has been tripping a lot, it's time to replace.

[steve dunham]

A 15 amp breaker does not always trip at 15 amps . There is a margin either side of 15 amps that is within UL standards I have seen 15 amp breakers trip at 10 amps and not trip at infinity (DEAD SHORT) Change the breaker ,and check the connection point where the breaker attaches to the bus bar in the panel . I would also check the outlet and wire connections where you are plugging in the load . A 15 amp breaker will run a coffee pot but not a coffee pot and toaster. If your really interested you can look up the time ,current trip curve and the ambient compensation chart for your breaker

[john warren]

as everyone said,,,,wires may limit your breaker size.

first put a fresh breaker in, they don't cost much, while your doing that, clean the wire ends, and pull your outlets and clean the wires and connections.you might even replace those old outlets, they could be coroded inside . a little corosion can cause a lot of resistance and pop your breaker.
i bet you will then be good to go

[Raz]

I would agree that trying a new breaker is the first step. As you have indicated a lack of knowledge, you might be better off consulting an electrician as your next step. Just a thought. Good luck, Raz

[Shaidah]

Ok, well it's pretty clear that my brilliant idea wasn't so brilliant.

Thanks very much for the advice. I'll try a new 15A and see what happens. The current one certainly looks old and is likely the original 1981 breaker.

I'll let you know how it goes.

[Carol H]

You may want to take a look at the condition of the receptacle you are plugging into - I had one that had some corrosion happening at the connection points and one of the wire connections in the box had become a little loose so it was giving me occasional problems - replaced the receptacle and all good since.

[Lil M.]

OK , it's my turn to show my lack of electrical knowhow, i.e., a little knowledge is a dangerous thing...

Can you get two circuits by putting a dual breaker in place of the single breaker?
Like the one shown here: 15 Amp Dual Circuit Breaker # Q1515 by Siemens Energy

Then you could have two circuits to run two big power draws at the same time, right?
Would you have to replace the breaker box to do so?
How complicated is it to connect the incoming line to a dual circuit breaker?

Please be gentle. I'm dumb, but sensitive. And I guess the only way to learn is to ask questions.

[Casita Greg]

Just be sure that your breaker panel accepts Siemens breakers. (I don't know what brand panel you have, but not all breakers are interchangable, so just be certain to get one to match your manufacturer). With the addition of a double breaker, you will still need to run new wiring to feed whatever you are intending to run off of the new added capacity. I may be wrong, but I'm sensing that you may be thinking about putting larger (i.e. higher current draw) appliances in your trailer? If so, you may want to revisit your decision and just upgrade your service feed to 20 Amp breakers. This will, as has been mentioned, require installing larger wires to not create a fire hazard. For 20 Amp breakers, the wires should be minimum 12 ga.

[Lil M.]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Just be sure that your breaker panel accepts Siemens breakers. (I don't know what brand panel you have, but not all breakers are interchangable, so just be certain to get one to match your manufacturer). With the addition of a double breaker, you will still need to run new wiring to feed whatever you are intending to run off of the new added capacity. I may be wrong, but I'm sensing that you may be thinking about putting larger (i.e. higher current draw) appliances in your trailer? If so, you may want to revisit your decision and just upgrade your service feed to 20 Amp breakers. This will, as has been mentioned, require installing larger wires to not create a fire hazard. For 20 Amp breakers, the wires should be minimum 12 ga.

Thanks Greg, your answer helps a lot. I'm also building a teardrop trailer and am stuck at the electrical. My No. 3 Son's friend is an electrician, so I'll probably get him to do or help me with the wiring. I just want to know enough that I can understand what he's doing, and so I can troubleshoot if need be.

Right now the biggest drawing appliance I have in mind for either the Scamp or the teardrop would be my Breville Espresso Machine. Everybody takes theirs camping, right??
I'd just have to make sure I wasn't using the toaster at the same time.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Lil M.

OK , it's my turn to show my lack of electrical knowhow, i.e., a little knowledge is a dangerous thing...

Can you get two circuits by putting a dual breaker in place of the single breaker?
Like the one shown here: 15 Amp Dual Circuit Breaker # Q1515 by Siemens Energy

Then you could have two circuits to run two big power draws at the same time, right?
Would you have to replace the breaker box to do so?
How complicated is it to connect the incoming line to a dual circuit breaker?

Please be gentle. I'm dumb, but sensitive. And I guess the only way to learn is to ask questions.

They make 1/2 space and piggyback breakers (15-15 or 20-20 or 20-15)
They vary in cost from $10 to $40 based on mfg. Breakers are not interchangeable from mfg to mfg , some will not physically fit and it is illegal to use a breaker in a panel that it was not designed for or UL listed for that purpose . Most panels are designed to accept only so many circuit breakers so the piggyback breakers will only fit in certain spots or not at all in many panels. If you must install a piggyback breaker in a panel get one that is NON CTL listed and it will fit where a standard piggyback will not. Also limit the load you apply to a piggyback breaker . They do not work well with large cyclical loads such as an AC ( Look for the NON CTL label on the side of the breaker)

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

This will, as has been mentioned, require installing larger wires to not create a fire hazard. For 20 Amp breakers, the wires should be minimum 12 ga.

Look at the wire insulation between the breaker box and the 110 volt AC outlet. Is there printing on it? If there is, it should include the wire gauge (size). I am assuming from most of the comments that many trailers can be wired with 14 gauge wire or even 16 gauge.

My Fiber Stream uses regular house-type Romex (3 individual solid wires {Black, White, and Bare} encased within a white outer sheath) for the 110 volt AC circuits, and individual stranded wires {Red & White} for the 12 volt DC circuits.

[john warren]

the double breaker is mostly for when you need one more circut and are out of space in your box. you still have to run a wire for it to operate.
but generaly speaking no matter how right we are,,,,ask a licensed electrition if you can. saves on funny looking hair do's from making an error with juice.

[Lil M.]

Originally Posted by john warren

the double breaker is mostly for when you need one more circut and are out of space in your box. you still have to run a wire for it to operate.
but generaly speaking no matter how right we are,,,,ask a licensed electrition if you can. saves on funny looking hair do's from making an error with juice.

My Scamp's box only has space for one breaker, and for sure I'll talk to an electrician before I do ANYTHING. My hair is funny enough looking, I don't want to make that problem worse!

[Armymomma]

Just a thought (try to get around the mountain rather than going over the top kind of thinking here...).
I have a "new to me" 13' Burro with a 15amp box. I ran an additional 110 AC cord into the trailer (most campsites have 2 hookups for electrical) & tied it to an outlet on the right side of the Kitchen area (the original 110 AC outlet with the breaker is on the Left side of the Kitchen area). This way, I get the 15 amps dedicated on the Left & an extra 15 amps on the right side.
The port hole (under the sink area) for the electrical cables is more than generous enough to accommodate both cables going to the outside.
Did a "maiden" camp out in the garage this past weekend & ran a space heater off of the 15amp & a coffee maker & iPod charger off of the other new line -- nothing tripped off.
As an additional option, you can also put in a 12 Volt DC outlet (tied in from your from your marine battery) that could run small stuff too.

[Mouse]

I redid the 110 input power wiring and added a GFCI outlet directly connected to it.

I now have 110 outlets on both sides of the kitchen.

The original 15amp input breaker still protects all the 12 volt wiring.

From what I have been reading I will update the original input breaker to make sure it is working correctly. That is a really good idea! I hadn't thought about it degrading over time and usage.

[Roger C H]

You not only need correct wires downstream from the breaker, but upstream as well.

There may be 'ghost' loads on that breaker. Maybe your battery charger or some other thing, refrigerator? is wired into that circuit also. Anything else would decrease the load you could place in the outlet served by the breaker. Even your idea light bulb.



Actually, it would be a good idea to have a licensed electrician check your entire rig out. I have worked on houses that POs have done some creative and dangerous things to.

Fred, I am surprised that you have solid wire on your rig. Solid is good for houses but trailers should have stranded. Solid wire is not very accepting of movement. Just like taking a wire and repeatedly bending it in order to break it. A trailer is like a house with a continuous earthquake! I had fire shooting out my furnace once. It turns out the vibration caused by the 60Hz current eventually caused the connection to loosen and cause the sparking.