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Old 04-08-2018, 06:18 AM   #1
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Name: David
Trailer: 2014 13' Scamp -standard w/ front bunk
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city water valve problem

First stop on a multi-week trip and the city water inlet on our 2014 scamp 13 sprayed water out when the DC pump was turned on. I'm not sure what the internal components look like in these but I fiddled with the valve stem (the one used to evacuate the valve when winterizing) to try re-seating the valve and managed to reduce the problem to a small drip. I hoped that the reverse pressure from hooking up to city water again might resolve the issue, but it did not.

The leak is enough that the pump keeps trying to maintain pressure with a "thump" in 1-2 second intervals. We're managing by turning the pump on and off as needed for water but it's not an ideal long-term solution.

Is there a way to get to the innards of the valve to clean or repair it or does it have to replaced as a unit? If the latter it looks to be a significant task involving rivets, caulking, and pex plumbing (something I have no experience with). I hope you'll tell me I'm wrong!

thanks for your advice
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Old 04-08-2018, 06:29 AM   #2
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You might find this recent thread helpful.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...lve-84521.html

Perhaps you can cut the line and plug it until you get home. I'm sure Gorden will be along and have a suggestion. Good luck. Oh yeah, it's 17 here this morning and we got 5" of snow yesterday. I'm sure you're in a warmer place.
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Old 04-08-2018, 06:39 AM   #3
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water pressure

I would not turn any outlet anywhere to full pressure trailer plumbing is not built to withstand much water pressure.

don't ask me why I know


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Old 04-08-2018, 06:47 AM   #4
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Thanks Raz. This is very helpful. This morning is the first since we left VT a week ago that I've had an internet connection so I missed the posting. Looks like I'm in for a significant task when we return.

d
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:00 AM   #5
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Raz,
As for warmer, it is but not by much. We thought we'd go south along the coast to avoid any further snow and wander back north with spring. We've been dodging snow (not always successfully) as far south as NC and lower than normal temps. Now in SC we seem to be safely free of snow in the forecast but nighttime temps are still near freezing. That said, still nice to be on another travel adventure and we'll happily miss mud season (but will return in time for blackflies).
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:12 AM   #6
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Buckets are still on the trees so we might get one last sap run. Gotta think positive. We'll head for OBX after the garden is in, some time in May...... Or June.... Or.....
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:31 AM   #7
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Ahh I new my adventure would apply to someone else sooner or later.. but this is sooner than I expected

For a temporary fix I think you can use a cap on the city water inlet, and continue to use on-board water. This shutoff might work, or you could get a male to male connector and an end cap. Heck, even a "Y valve" might work if it fits (if the lever is not in the way when its closed)... and you might have one of those already.

Any hardware store should have something in stock that will work (except maybe when traveling). Never did it that way myself but I think it will work fine if the problem is the check valve. Let us know if you do it and how it works out.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:50 AM   #8
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Doesn't your shore water inlet have a cap that it came with?
Just put that cap on an your problem is solved, that's a good part of its purpose.
Next time you run shore water it will probably rinse itself clear, especially if the weather is warm.
No problem using your shore water or pump just not both at once.

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Old 04-08-2018, 08:48 AM   #9
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We had the same problem with our Boler, and fixed it by capping off the line.
We never use a direct connection to city water for a number of reasons, so the cap is not an issue for us.
Using the water tank allows us to monitor water use more closely, and since we dry camp extensively it is good practice.
When you connect to city water you have to connect to the city sewer, which is a problem for the black tank. The black tank needs to either be allowed to partially fill in order to flush itself, or it needs to have lots of water added to wash the solids through the tank and external pipe. I have seen pyramids of dried feces below the toilet on rv's that did not use enough water and let the tank dry out.
The anode rod in the hot tank will last longer if you are not connected to city water.
Grey water is easy to get rid of, black water not so much.
If you are away from your rv and there is a plumbing failure, you can return to a very soggy mess, our habit is to turn off the water pump if we are going to leave for a while.
A friend nearly sank his sailboat because it filled with fresh water from a plumbing leak while connected to city water.
High pressure city water can damage plumbing and fixtures such as the hot water tank, necessitating carrying a PRV.
City water is often not drinkable, so we carry a 20 gallon tank with transfer pump so that we can go and get clean water when needed.
This from experience gained from 40 years of rv'ing 8 years living aboard our yacht, 12 years full time in our coach,and now camping in the south including Mexico in the winters.
Hope this helps.
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Old 04-08-2018, 09:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggie View Post
We had the same problem with our Boler, and fixed it by capping off the line.
We never use a direct connection to city water for a number of reasons, so the cap is not an issue for us....
You bring up a number of good points and in fact I don't use city water connection either, for most of the same reasons. I expect the valve I put in will remain closed for some time - likely until the next owner comes along.

Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Doesn't your shore water inlet have a cap that it came with?

No, neither the one that came with the Scamp or the replacement. Both had dust caps, but not threaded pressure caps. But what you pictured looks good. One might need to go to a camping supply place instead of a hardware store if on the road for it however. If you can get packages, Amazon is one source for the one you showed.
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Old 04-08-2018, 09:37 AM   #11
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WDavidG;
Both of mine came with a screw in cap, but I have seen the ones described by Gordon.
At any rate use your shore water a couple of times in warm weather before you replace the unit.
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggie View Post
We had the same problem with our Boler, and fixed it by capping off the line.
We never use a direct connection to city water for a number of reasons, so the cap is not an issue for us.
Using the water tank allows us to monitor water use more closely, and since we dry camp extensively it is good practice.
When you connect to city water you have to connect to the city sewer, which is a problem for the black tank. The black tank needs to either be allowed to partially fill in order to flush itself, or it needs to have lots of water added to wash the solids through the tank and external pipe. I have seen pyramids of dried feces below the toilet on rv's that did not use enough water and let the tank dry out.
The anode rod in the hot tank will last longer if you are not connected to city water.
Grey water is easy to get rid of, black water not so much.
If you are away from your rv and there is a plumbing failure, you can return to a very soggy mess, our habit is to turn off the water pump if we are going to leave for a while.
A friend nearly sank his sailboat because it filled with fresh water from a plumbing leak while connected to city water.
High pressure city water can damage plumbing and fixtures such as the hot water tank, necessitating carrying a PRV.
City water is often not drinkable, so we carry a 20 gallon tank with transfer pump so that we can go and get clean water when needed.
This from experience gained from 40 years of rv'ing 8 years living aboard our yacht, 12 years full time in our coach,and now camping in the south including Mexico in the winters.
Hope this helps.
Tony
When hooked to sewer you don't open the toilet valve until it is at least half full. Then you empty the tank. Only open the grey water.
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:18 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
I would not turn any outlet anywhere to full pressure trailer plumbing is not built to withstand much water pressure.

don't ask me why I know


bob
Always put a water regulator on the faucet before connecting a hose. It will reduce the pressure to 45 instead of something the plumbing won't handle. Even turning down the amount of flow still puts to much pressure on the lines. We also use a filter after the regulator to clean the water and it makes almost all water drinkable. These items keeps you a dry happy camper.
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Old 04-11-2018, 06:57 AM   #14
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I'm just back on-line after a couple days. Floyd, the plug you note should be a good solution. I'll have Mr Amazon drop one off when we return home. After seeing what it takes to replace the valve, it may be my permanent solution. Meantime, Gordon is right on the money with the male to male connector and hose end cap. Both were available at a near-by hardware.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.
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Old 04-11-2018, 08:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
I'm just back on-line after a couple days. Floyd, the plug you note should be a good solution. I'll have Mr Amazon drop one off when we return home. After seeing what it takes to replace the valve, it may be my permanent solution. Meantime, Gordon is right on the money with the male to male connector and hose end cap. Both were available at a near-by hardware.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.
Good to hear.. as suggested above, be sure and run some shore water through the city water inlet before giving up on it.. perhaps a good flushing will free some deposits and let it seal again.

But if you need to replace it and it has the screw on swivel adapter then its not that big a project. The added ball valve that I put in is totally optional, and the project is simpler without it.
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