Classic Boler Bulge/ Door Issue + Mystery

[Squamoton]

***Tried posting before, didn't save so excuse the brevity

Proud new owner of Wes, the Boler. But sadly he has some issues....which I think I've worked out through the amazing threads and comments found here!

Before I break anything, I wanted to share some photos and a quick history.

- The Boler sat for 3 years, with only the cupboard in place.
- The width of the door (top) is 25.25"
- The width of the door (bottom) is 26.5"

I am planning to do the following:

1) Jack up the roof (see pic)
2) Straighten the metal bar

Any thoughts and comments from the gurus here, would be most appreciated!

P

PS - wont let me upload photos....I'll try after I post this thread.

[Squamoton]

[Menno]

Also check the frame for cracks and the axle for sag if it has been sitting for a long period.

[Dan Meyer]

For some strange reason there are no thumbnail pictures - only blank placeholders. Also, I need to click the back button on my browser to come back to the thread... but enough computer strangeness.

Back to the camper. Can you provide a couple more pictures? I'd be interested in seeing the whole door opening and open door in one photo, a picture of the whole door, and a picture looking down each side of the camper.

Thanks!

--Dan Meyer

[Squamoton]

Hi all......I've uploaded photos to Google drive here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Tf?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Tf?usp=sharing

+++++++

*note: I don't really understand how you are supposed to upload photos? It asks for a URL for each photo - I have to double click the upload image icon to get a pop up window.

I used the public link from from the Google drive photos in the previous post, adding the [IMG] html prefix in the text....maybe reason black images.

[Squamoton]

I just replied...awaiting moderation.

Replying here too....Public link to of photos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Tf?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Tf?usp=sharing

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Squamoton

..
*note: I don't really understand how you are supposed to upload photos? It asks for a URL for each photo - I have to double click the upload image icon to get a pop up window.
..

You can link to photos off site as you have done, or using the "Insert Image" option, but attaching photos to the post is the preferred method. On a web browser, choose "Go Advanced" option for posting a message, then look for the paperclip icon on the top row above the message composition window. Also see Fiberglass RV - FAQ: Reading and Posting Messages

[Glenn Baglo]

The easy way to post photos.

These illustrated instructions are at the Escape Forum, but same process as here:

Posting Photos - Escape Trailer Owners Community

[Borden]

Had a door problem on our boler, was the wall had spread out at the bottom away for the inner floor; pulled wall back and the curve was fixed.
Door hinges had also sagged new pins and the holes holding hinge to trailer wall had worn allowing the top hinge to move to left so removed hinge and filled the holes then re-drill new holes in the proper places 1/8 inch over and up for top hinge.
Door had not sagged at the bottom as it looked, but the wall had moved out at floor adding to wall curve. also added brackets at curved steel wall brackets on each side of door and screws at the floor across in front of door into the original floor plywood to increase strength.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Squamoton

I am planning to do the following:

1) Jack up the roof (see pic)
2) Straighten the metal bar

Any thoughts and comments from the gurus here, would be most appreciated!

I may comment more after I see your photos. There are many structural designs in the various bolers over the years.



IMO, the metal bar does not bend, so it does not need straightening.
Your body will bulge from the upper and lower points of attachment of the metal bar. i.e. it rotates outward from the lower and inward from the upper. When looking at the "door frame" from the outside, there is typically a crack in the top right corner.



Try making a template from your closet side of the door and you will get an idea. That is if you still have the closet in place. I have an extra closet if needed. You just need to figure out how to get it to the Wet Coast.

[Stephen_Albers]

Common with small trailers, your frame is not strong enough to support the shell - a problem for all operations including just sitting over time and a disaster for boondocking operations. Before considering shell repairs, you need to provide a stronger custom frame.

[Squamoton]

Thanks for all the replies!!

So I had a friend (red seal boiler maker) look at it.....

Overview
It seemed like the previous owner had screwed the floor down without aligning the door first. Interestingly he had also added 1/2 Marine ply on top of the old ply. Not sure if this changes the Henry much, but the wood was overhanging the metal frame (I e kitchen inside), so by cutting the wood it helped the bench slot in place properly....

Solution

We first unscrewed the floor from the frame.

We then took two ratchet straps, put them around the belly of the shell, and slowly tightened it.

Once we aligned things, we used self tapping screws to reattach the wooden floor to the frame using the same holes.

I then needed to use a oscillating saw to trim the marine ply so the counters would fit better.

The door closed!

The only minor problem is the shell was put on when it wasn't aligned to I'll need to cut some (broken) fibreglass so the door aligns correctly with the flooring.

[Squamoton]

It looks like either...the previous owner cut the kitchen fibreglass...or I haven't aligned something correctly.

What should support the kitchen counter (base).

[Squamoton]

Can anyone help with this conundrum?