connecting multiple wires? - Fiberglass RV
Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-16-2016, 07:59 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: Daniel
Trailer: UHAUL CT-13
Texas
Posts: 15
connecting multiple wires?

Hi all,

I am rewiring my trailer lights and was wondering what people use to connect multiple (3 or more) wires. Mine has all those blue scotch locks to tap into wires, but I heard those are not very reliable. Twist locks, butt connectors, special techniques? Thanks.
Daniel the Texan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 08:18 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500, 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 1,711
Registry
I use crimp splice connectors for all 12vdc wire splices. For exterior wire splices such as brake wire splices, I use weatherproof crimp splice connectors. My 1978 Trillium 4500 has all the original crimp splices and none have failed.
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 08:49 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,439
If you decide to use crimp connections buy good ones such as T&B or 3M . The plating on the metal crimp sleeves and the insulation is of much higher quality than the cheap Chinese connectors . Also use a genuine T&B indentor style crimper.
They cost about $30 but they perform much better than the $5 ones sold at HD. I still have my original T&B crimper from when I started the trade in the late 60's . Nothing more frustrating than trying to find a bad splice once everything is covered up.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,580


http://www.bestboatwire.com/3-way-wi...rink-16-14-awg
gordon2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 09:14 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,329
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
If you can not find the weatherproof ones, fill them with dielectris grease B 4 you crimp. It will keep the nasty stuff out.

Milspec - You only crimp once. Most people will crimp one more time and that weakens the first crimp.

I prefer the ratching crimp tool as it allows you to get the best crimp.
Ratcheting Crimping Tool
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 09:25 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
David B.'s Avatar
 
Name: Dave & Paula Brown
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,236
Registry
I strip away part of the insulation to splice into a wire, then solder, and wrap with electrical tape. If terminating several wires to the battery, first go through a fuse block, then only one fused wire goes to the battery.
For the multiple negative/ground wires I go to a buss block, then one wire to the battery.
Dave & Paula
David B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 10:10 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,126
junction box
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0728.jpg  
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 07:30 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Carl V's Avatar
 
Name: Carl
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Quebec
Posts: 662


Depending on the wire size, these can accommodate 3 or 4 wires. Not weatherproof though.

To weatherproof a regular crimp connector, I slide a length of heat shrink over them, fill the ends with sealant like silicone, apply heat, the sealant will ooze out the ends and seal the connection.
Carl V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 09:15 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Name: Terry
Trailer: 1996 Casita Freedom Deluxe 17 ft
Colorado
Posts: 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
I strip away part of the insulation to splice into a wire, then solder, and wrap with electrical tape. If terminating several wires to the battery, first go through a fuse block, then only one fused wire goes to the battery.
For the multiple negative/ground wires I go to a buss block, then one wire to the battery.
Dave & Paula
Some years ago, I used to work on radio, siren, and electrical systems in police cars and fire trucks. When they came into the shop with a problem, the majority of times it was a bad crimp. On my Casita, I go the solder route. The best electrical tape is the stuff that you stretch and then it fuses together in a watertight bond.
Terry G is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 10:54 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 698
Solder is the best. Then a good quality electrical tape.
Mike_L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 11:58 AM   #11
Member
 
Name: Larry
Trailer: Escape
Oregon
Posts: 72
I don't use electrical tape if I have to and I only use 3M, if you want a water tight and strong connection the best is to solder the wires and use quality shrink tubeing. If you want high quality terminal connectors buy them from a heavy truck or equipment parts supplier generally they only handle the best.
larryf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 02:08 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 SD
Washington
Posts: 1,669
Registry
I really like these little connectors. They make them for joining 2 wires, and up to several wires which can be "ganged" together. The nice thing about these is they clamp the wire, they don't cut into the wire like Scotch-Locks do.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-.../dp/B003K0J4IQ
Casita Greg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 02:14 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Triker's Avatar
 
Name: Ann
Trailer: 2016 Scamp 13'
Washington
Posts: 120
solder

I solder and use heat shrink tubing when possible. If using electrical tape, don't stretch the last wrap.
Triker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 02:44 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,329
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
mary and bob
I retentively purchased a box like yours at a low price from Walmart on line site.

There were quite allot of excellent posts on this subject. You cant go wrong following the advice on these posts.
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 03:14 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry G View Post
Some years ago, I used to work on radio, siren, and electrical systems in police cars and fire trucks. When they came into the shop with a problem, the majority of times it was a bad crimp. On my Casita, I go the solder route. The best electrical tape is the stuff that you stretch and then it fuses together in a watertight bond.
3M #23 is a self sealing / fusing cross link polymer tape. When stretched properly it changes colors and fuses it's self into one solid layer . It needs to be covered with a half lapped layer of 3M #33+ or #88 tape. The #23 tape is used to make high voltage stress cones and splices. . I have made many 13,800 VAC splices with it in manholes and even when the manhole filled with water the splices maintained their integrity . They also make a shrink tube for underground splices / connections . It is expensive but it really works well. The better grade / higher quality supplies are often only sold by electrical wholesale house or on the internet . A lot of the parts sold by HD are not the best available because they are selling to homeowners who are only looking for a low / cheap price.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 03:53 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
mary and bob
I retentively purchased a box like yours at a low price from Walmart on line site.

There were quite allot of excellent posts on this subject. You cant go wrong following the advice on these posts.
I got a couple on eBay. Have not been able to make it to be completely waterproof however. As a long time truck & trailer mechanic in the Northeast, we never found any type of connectors that lasted forever. Even the OEM molded plugs were subject to failure. Best bet is to make any connections where they can easily be accessed again.
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2016, 06:44 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,142
Some of the crimps that look like these are heat shrink as well. They cost a little more.
I have often joined multiple wires on one side or both of a crimp and if careful it is OK, just like every other crimp.
Nicking the wire is bad, heat shrink is good
Also I like to run one PAIR of wires to each load and then connect them to the switch or buss individually. Then it you have a problem it is isolated to just the one device.
It also makes it easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem.
The cost is a little more wire and a lot more reliable.
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2016, 07:41 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,580
The issue of crimp vs. solder is another topic that has been debated since the invention of both.

IMHO, crimping is a perfectly acceptable method and very reliable IF DONE RIGHT. The problem is very few people know how to select the right connectors, how to properly crimp them and have the proper quality tool to do it. Most people use a multi-tool instead of a dedicated crimper. There is more to the science then it first appears. A proper crimped connection has mechanical strength whereas a soldered one does not except for the minimal amount provided by the solder itself. Try pulling apart wires that are connected with a proper butt connector, vs. just a soldered connection, and you will see what I mean. Its also a fact that the heavier the wire gauge, the less likely you will have success with solder. For heavier gauge, gas-tight crimped connections are what you want. (BTW, I have generally been one of the amateur crimpers also but I have been pretty lucky over the years).

I'll leave it up to others to do the research on how to properly crimp and decide for yourself what is best.
gordon2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2016, 09:23 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,142
Aircraft butt splices (very expensive) have tow crimps, one for the wire and a second to locate the insulation.
Special calibrated crimpers do both at once.
By the way if you are buying crimpers get Thomas and Betts (T& or equivalent.
Note that these crimp along the wire and not across it which tends to cut the strands.
Back in the 70's the T&B aviation qualified splices cost about $0.50 each. I don't know how much now.
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2016, 01:08 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 698
Electrical current is the flow of electrons through a conductor such as a wire. Most of the electron flow occurs through the surface of the conductor as opposed to its core. That is why a hollow pipe is a better conductor than a solid conductor of the same mass and composition. When wires are joined the objective is to fuse them together into one continuous conductor. This will minimize resistance and maximize current flow. Mechanical unions hold the two or more wires together. Current flow will be between the surfaces that come into contact with each other. Solder, when properly applied, contacts the entire surfaces of all the wire and effectively forms a complete union or fusing, of all the surfaces. This minimizes resistance and maximizes current flow. Mechanical unions rely on the friction produced by the device used to keep the wires in contact. Solder embeds the wires in a solid matrix. It is the rigidity of this solid matrix that binds the wires together. Mechanical unions may be subject to moisture infiltration which may result in corrosion as the wire oxidizes. These metallic oxides have a higher resistance than the original metal from which they form and impede current flow to the point where continuity may lost. When solder fuses to the wire moisture infiltration is prevented as there is no space for moisture infiltration. Mechanical unions offer speed and convenience of use at the expense of function, durability and cost. Solder is a little more difficult to use (properly) but is much more effective, durable and more economical to use. That's why most permanent electrical connections on a computer use solder. I have used solder not only for electrical unions on trailers but also in marine applications for over 40 years. I have never had one fail. In my experience, the wire will fail before the soldered union when the solder is used properly.
Mike_L is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Connecting all those wires. CD Smith Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 09-09-2013 03:27 PM
Lighting wires and sink pump wires in Burro Kemoldenhauer Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 08-14-2013 10:06 AM
No more multiple clicks Doug Mager Forum Admin, News & Announcements 9 09-20-2008 07:05 AM
Multiple trailers and irrational thoughts Karen T General Chat 20 08-13-2008 03:27 PM
Pulling Multiple Trailers Pete Dumbleton General Chat 9 12-30-2007 06:28 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.