Converting 3 way fridge from 240V - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-11-2020, 08:35 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Jack Walter's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: Eriba - Ex Escape, Eriba, U-Haul, Boler owner
Georgia
Posts: 199
Converting 3 way fridge from 240V

I'm importing another Eriba Puck from Great Britain and it has an Electrolux 4200 three way fridge in it that is set up to run on European standard 240V, 12V and propane. I've read that the Dometic/Electrolux fridges are almost identical to the 110V versions sold over here but the heating element for the refrigerant is different for the 110V models. It would be great if all I had to do was to change out a $35 part to convert the fridge to run over here instead of buying a new fridge.

Does anybody have any experience or knowledge of this idea?
Jack Walter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2020, 09:14 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 692
Registry
Convert the voltage??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Walter View Post
I've read that the Dometic/Electrolux fridges are almost identical to the 110V versions sold over here but the heating element for the refrigerant is different for the 110V models.
Does anybody have any experience or knowledge of this idea?
Or convert the voltage. With never having done it; and because of my background Id use a step-up transformer. They are common in industry and I would hope a 500 watt transformer would run it.
AC0GV is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 04:55 AM   #3
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,784
I agree, a transformer is one option. They tend to be large, and can be expensive but easily found used on ebay . Another possibility is replacing the heating element. As it is a resistor, a 120 volt element of the same wattage and size should work. If the same fridge is sold here, a direct replacement should be available. Unfortunately, like most replacement parts, they tend to be overpriced. That said, either option would be much cheaper than replacing the fridge.
Raz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 09:48 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raz View Post
I agree, a transformer is one option. They tend to be large, and can be expensive but easily found used on ebay . Another possibility is replacing the heating element. As it is a resistor, a 120 volt element of the same wattage and size should work. If the same fridge is sold here, a direct replacement should be available. Unfortunately, like most replacement parts, they tend to be overpriced. That said, either option would be much cheaper than replacing the fridge.
adding transformers adding resistors how many batteries are we talking. I think I would get gas and be done with it. Those gas fridges are gas sippers!

A 20lb tank doesn't weigh much and will last several weeks if just running the fridge.
k0wtz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 10:44 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Jack Walter's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: Eriba - Ex Escape, Eriba, U-Haul, Boler owner
Georgia
Posts: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
adding transformers adding resistors how many batteries are we talking. I think I would get gas and be done with it. Those gas fridges are gas sippers!

A 20lb tank doesn't weigh much and will last several weeks if just running the fridge.

The fridge is a three way so it will run off the propane tank or 12V. What I want to be able to do is run it off a 120V live circuit if I'm staying in a campground and plugged into shore power. I've read somewhere that the only difference between the European and US fridges is the heating element used in the circuit for when the fridge is operating off shore power. I'm trying to confirm if that's correct or if there is a different circuit board or other electrical components that need to be changed as well. It might be an easy conversion that would save the expense of replacing the whole refrigerator.
Attached Thumbnails
interior7.jpg   Puck3.jpeg  

Jack Walter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 11:00 AM   #6
Commercial Member
 
Name: Outback
Trailer: Outback trillium trailer
Alberta
Posts: 43
fridge modification

Hello Jack, we were once the largest fridge rebuilders in Canada, for you to change it to a 120 volt from 240 fridge is quite simple you will need to replace the heating element with the same wattage marked on the element and of course if the fridge is not hardwired you will have to change the plug and outlet as well.
Joe at Outback is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 11:02 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Joe MacDonald's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 943
depending on the model and circuit board, it might require 240v, as it needs to get control power somewhere.
If you have the wattage requirement for the heating element it is not hard to calculate how big a transformer you need, they are very common for anyone who moves here from europe and brings appliances etc. what about a converter , does it have one? if so you will need to consider that as well.
Joe MacDonald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 01:10 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: Lee
Trailer: Casita
Texas
Posts: 449
Registry
Europeans use 240 volts as compared to our 120/240 volts but it is also 50 HZ compared to our 60 HZ
__________________
Lee
Captleemo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 01:27 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Jack Walter's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: Eriba - Ex Escape, Eriba, U-Haul, Boler owner
Georgia
Posts: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe at Outback View Post
Hello Jack, we were once the largest fridge rebuilders in Canada, for you to change it to a 120 volt from 240 fridge is quite simple you will need to replace the heating element with the same wattage marked on the element and of course if the fridge is not hardwired you will have to change the plug and outlet as well.
Thanks, the fridge is hardwired but I will be getting into the wiring harness to increase the gauge of the wires and changing the interior sockets and mains plug to US standards. As one of the other responders pointed out I'm concerned that the control circuit might require 240V and/or 50 hz but the sketchy information I've been able to dig out so far suggests that might not be an issue. It's an Electrolux RM4200 and the trailer is on a boat leaving England today. Once I pick it up at the port and get it home in a couple of weeks I'll dissect it and hopefully know a little more. Your expertise is very much appreciated and encouraging.

There are only a couple of circuits on this little 12' trailer so rewiring it won't be a big deal. If I can figure out how to use the fridge that's in it that will save me a few hundred dollars. Thanks everyone for your input.
Jack Walter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 01:52 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500, 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 1,545
Registry
12 vdc converter

Or you could just run the fridge in 12 vdc mode by installing a shore power converter.
__________________
Trillium 4500 Journal
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...nal-81345.html
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 01:54 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Jack Walter's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: Eriba - Ex Escape, Eriba, U-Haul, Boler owner
Georgia
Posts: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Or you could just run the fridge in 12 vdc mode by installing a shore power converter.

Yes but I've read that these fridges don't work nearly as well on 12V as they do on 120V or propane.
Jack Walter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 01:56 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,344
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Walter View Post
The fridge is a three way so it will run off the propane tank or 12V. ....
Maybe get a good, 15 or more amp continuous, 12 volt power supply and run the fridge on 12 VDC? The advantage is no modifications to the fridge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captleemo View Post
Europeans use 240 volts as compared to our 120/240 volts but it is also 50 HZ compared to our 60 HZ
Assuming its only powering the heating element then 10 Hz difference wont matter.
gordon2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 02:15 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 692
Registry
No batteries.

Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
adding transformers adding resistors how many batteries are we talking. .
No batteries or resisters added. just the trans former and only if you can't find a 120 volt heating element. A 500 watt step up transformer is small and about $50.
AC0GV is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 05:27 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,011
Disconnect the 240 volt line from the fridge and buy a 12 volt power supply that runs off 120 volts. You can probably just use your converter if it has been switched to 120 volts.
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 05:59 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,344
Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Maybe get a good, 15 or more amp continuous, 12 volt power supply and run the fridge on 12 VDC? The advantage is no modifications to the fridge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Disconnect the 240 volt line from the fridge and buy a 12 volt power supply that runs off 120 volts. You can probably just use your converter if it has been switched to 120 volts.
G M T A !
gordon2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 06:59 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Name: Terry
Trailer: Gulfstream
Memphis
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Walter View Post
I'm importing another Eriba Puck from Great Britain and it has an Electrolux 4200 three way fridge in it that is set up to run on European standard 240V, 12V and propane. I've read that the Dometic/Electrolux fridges are almost identical to the 110V versions sold over here but the heating element for the refrigerant is different for the 110V models. It would be great if all I had to do was to change out a $35 part to convert the fridge to run over here instead of buying a new fridge.

Does anybody have any experience or knowledge of this idea?
(Suspicion) would be that if 4-wire, it was running twox120-vac circuits, (like conventional RV50a?)
THene1713 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2020, 07:06 PM   #17
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,784
After a review of the manual it would appear there is no electronic control board on the RM4200 and the heating element is alittle over 100 watts. The dometic 2193 in my trailer uses a similar sized element. One of those from a defunct RM2193 might be worth a try.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/45...x-Rm-4200.html
Raz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2020, 08:48 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Joe MacDonald's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 943
looking at what they have for a wiring diagram, it would seem a simple 500 watt transformer adapter as previously mentioned would work just fine. you could probably mount it in the wiring compartment, feed it with 120v and run the 220v from it to the fridge terminals

don't sweat the 50/60 hz, its biggest effect is on motors, for the fridge it shouldn't be an issue.
Many Many years ago, we actually ran on 25hz, that's when you could actually see the lights flicker
Joe MacDonald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2020, 12:00 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Civilguy's Avatar
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Escape 21 & Jeep GC 5.7 (Previous 2012 Casita FD17 & 2010 Audi Q5)
Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 1,520
Registry
The Dometic manuals describe the 12 VDC circuit on a three-way fridge as only being suitable to partly-cool the refrigerator, or to help maintain temperatures achieved by pre-cooling under LP gas or 120 VAC power.

I suspect the 12 VDC heating element was sized as a compromise between providing some cooling function, and limiting the amperage in accordance with the limitations of the battery's storage and the 12 VDC wiring's ampacity.

Though not really mentioned, rewiring the Eriba for 60 HZ 240 VAC would seem a bit outlandish. I'd favor the concept of getting a 120 VAC heating element for the fridge.

Studying manuals for the Eriba's fridge and for other refrigerators will hopefully yield up some information concerning the respective wattages of the original element and prospective replacement elements.

On edit: I looked up the electric heating elements for the Dometic RM 2454 we had in our Casita and they are both listed as being 175 watts.

http://www.trekin.digital-digs.net/S...r%20Manual.pdf

The refrigerator manual Raz linked lists 220 and 175 watt heater elements respectively for 240 and 12 volt, but it's not the Electrolux 4200 that Jack mentions.

My earlier statements above about the differing wattages may apply to other model refrigerators. I used to read quite a few Dometic manuals when I was learning about absorption refrigerators. Or maybe I'm just full of gas - ?
__________________
~ Be yourself; everyone else is already taken. ~
Civilguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2020, 05:57 AM   #20
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post

The refrigerator manual Raz linked lists 220 and 175 watt heater elements respectively for 240 and 12 volt, but it's not the Electrolux 4200 that Jack mentions.
Ok, I'm confused. The picture on the cover looks right and the specs list the AC element at 105 watts? Did I spec the wrong one?

In any event, just for fun I searched the cost of replacing the element in my dometic. The cheapest I could find for a new element was well over $100. Considering I can buy a new fridge for $600, I'd say they are just a little greedy. With those kind of prices, the step up transformer approach looks better and better unless a used element can be found on ebay.
Raz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fridge


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can a 2-way fridge become a 3-way fridge? Rob Carmody Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 13 06-24-2016 10:54 AM
3-Way Fridge vs AC DC Fridge? Krista Modifications, Alterations and Updates 44 04-14-2016 06:34 PM
7 way plug to 4 way plug back to 7 way plug immrbill Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 08-10-2015 11:08 AM
2 way compressor fridge vs 3 way propane aimeelightsey General Chat 9 05-20-2011 05:56 PM
Way Way up North Al V Rallies, Get-togethers, Molded Meets (Archive) 23 06-23-2006 02:30 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.