What ever you do to the broken side of the frame you must to to the other side of the frame even if it isn't broke. working the cracked & broken frame will over load and over stress the steel on the other side.
The last thing I would do is to try to retrofit a generic frame to the trailer. Surely you can have a somewhat local welder build you a new frame for less, and if your frame is repairable, that should be your cheapest option.
Personally I would look for a welder not in Vancouver. Major cities tend to drive up the cost of businesses so the rates need to be higher.
Your trailer looks very nice and well worth the cost of a frame IMHO.
There are only a few bolts holding the body to the frame ( like a prewar car)
It is a simple matter to lift the body and remove the frame to better assess the damage or build a new frame. This is one of the best features of a Trillium.
After removal have a local utility trailer maker take a look, you may be surprised how cheap and easy a replacement frame or a proper repair may be.
There are only a few bolts holding the body to the frame ( like a prewar car)
It is a simple matter to lift the body and remove the frame to better assess the damage or build a new frame. This is one of the best features of a Trillium.
After removal have a local utility trailer maker take a look, you may be surprised how cheap and easy a replacement frame or a proper repair may be.
This is really the best answer IMHO. No generic frame is going to fit without extensive modification, and the existing frame cannot be fixed correctly, or beefed up while under the trailer body. Also, if removed, the frame can be evaluated carefully and coated for corrosion protection. Probably, the best course is a new frame, but it's best to have an honest look to find out. While there, you can coat the bottom of the trailer and look at, or fix the axle, if needed.
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I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
That repair is a cobble job. I tend to think replacing the frame is the right solution but it is hard to say with that repair scabbed on the frame if it is repairable or not. Aside from the reinforcement design being sub par the welding ain't nothing too impressive either.
People or businesses that use trailers such as horse trailers or landscaping companies often know who does trailer work in the area. Farms in your area might also know of good trailer repair or portable welder operations. Oil companies have a line on good portable welding sources. Pipelines and equipment need welding that is very well done and often done in the field.
A new frame would be a good investment but a good repair might only be a couple hundred dollars. I seem to recall a similar break on Norm and Ginny's Scamp 16 trailer that was repaired in the campground by a portable welding truck and I think was still going strong after they got home.
Just for the record I think there should have been "fish plates" on both sides and the bottom of that frame. If not channel fitted over it and used like a fish plate. I doubt that sort of repair properly welded would have re-broken. You can't really expect sub par repairs to yield good results. Especially true of stress bearing weld repairs.
your old repair is crap. take it to a good frame shop/ welder and get it fixed. you don't need a new frame just a good repair. Our Escape frame broke in half out in Barstow CA. We found a shop that built a splint and fixed it way better than new. $600.
we have a new frame built in Surrey BC by a friend who owns his own yard. I think it might have been in the ballpark of $1300 if you are not in a big hurry. Let me know if you need more info. Good luck!
Not that this is any real help, but its fascinating to me that this frame broke in EXACTLY the "right" place, that being the point where the recall notices predicted it would. Whole string takes me back to a thread I posted on this very subject back in '11 when I was contemplating buying a 1300 myself. For anyone interested in a lil trip down memory lane here's a link to that thread. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...00s-46068.html It's also instructive IMO b/c it contains both the recall notice AND a diagram showing the proper repairs to the area.
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We have a 1978 Trillium. This summer another old Trillium pulled up beside us at a service station. While talking to the owner I noticed his frame was different. He told be it was a new frame supplied and installed by Team trillium in Calgary. they make the Outback which uses original molds so the new frame works for older models. Perhaps purchase from the and have Escape Industries install it.
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
Frame Problems
My suggestion would be to find a good welding shop and have them repair the frame...
I've remodeled several Trillium's some the frame was in good shape and a few had cracked frames, I think there were 4 that I had the frames repaired.. On all of them I took the four bolts holding the body on out placed pieces of blocking and on all four corners, jacked the body off the frame rolled it out and then lowered the body down on 4x4 running the length of the camper, that way I could work on the camper while the trailer was being repaired..
Once I decided to repair the frame I went ahead and had the welder extend it so I could put a toolbox on the front.. This is what I did on all 4 of them and really love the added storage.. Here's a few pictures..
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
Here's one that I've been working on, my welder had some personal problems all summer long and I've not got the frame back yet.. He plan's to have it done in the next 3 weeks hopefully...Plan to install a toolbox on this one also...……..
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
When I get done with this one I have several setting waiting their turn... I'm getting a lot slower in my old age getting them done but hopefully I'll get them all renovated.... Have two others that not in the pictures one is at my son-in-laws and the other at my friends house he used it over the summer...…………...
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raz
Randy, I always enjoy and learn from your posts. Keep up the good work. Raz
Thanks RAZ, I've been really busy over the summer and haven't worked on them much this summer but plan to start back soon... I've got pictures of the last one I redone but they are all stored on my old computer and it's corrupted and needs repairing so I can download them and post them on here......
Thanks RAZ, I've been really busy over the summer and haven't worked on them much this summer but plan to start back soon... I've got pictures of the last one I redone but they are all stored on my old computer and it's corrupted and needs repairing so I can download them and post them on here......
Meagan,
How did you finally resolve your frame problem? I confess I'm asking out of self-interest. my frame has also cracked on the tongue. I've removed the frame from under the body and there's a fair amount of rot. I feel like I need to get to this because the days are getting longer. Spring will be here before you know it!
I don't know the status of your frame replacement after reading the posting. However, you may want to look at having the new frame powder coated or having a automotive rust proofing company spray the frame. I had my truck rust proofed and after 15 years there is no rust on the body or frame despite the salt brine they use in the winters in Indiana. You can also buy a gallon of bedliner "paint" and apply it with a brush. If it scrapes off from a rock or something just repaint the area.
While you can treat surface rust on the outside, there is the challenge of internal rust which you can’t get to since the Trillium came with rectangular tubing frame.
My Solo Trillium
Eggy-Sue (the pull-it surprize)
Casa de Tortuga
Waltzin' Matrillda
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Raz
Linear Mode
