Dometic Fridge does not work on 12v/gas

[Big Turkey]

Hey Folks,

My RM2410 Dometic fridge does not work on 12volt or gas. For reference, I left my camper in storage for a couple of weeks and upon my return, the fridge did not work.

In gas mode, the spark will ignite, however the fridge will not stay lit. I am suspecting the issue lies with the thermocouple or 12v. The fridge needs a small amount of 12v power to run on propane. Since 12v is not working, I would guess that is the culprit of the propane not working too. On the other hand, it could be the thermocouple. I don’t have a great reason for thinking something is wrong with the thermocouple, it just seems like a common issue with these fridges.

I have cleaned the flue and made sure there are no spider webs obstructing the flame. I recognize I have not done a thorough job testing the point of failure, but I wanted to get some input first. It’s an old fridge, and I do not believe there is a control board. Additionally, fuses are not mentioned in the manual. I’m sure there are some back there. I have played around behind the fridge, but have not been able to identify any fuses.

Again, this issue happened after I did not use the fridge for two weeks. It feels strange the 12v would stop working from that. Anyways, let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

[Bsharp76]

Originally Posted by Big Turkey

Hey Folks,

My RM2410 Dometic fridge does not work on 12volt or gas. For reference, I left my camper in storage for a couple of weeks and upon my return, the fridge did not work.

In gas mode, the spark will ignite, however the fridge will not stay lit. I am suspecting the issue lies with the thermocouple or 12v. The fridge needs a small amount of 12v power to run on propane. Since 12v is not working, I would guess that is the culprit of the propane not working too. On the other hand, it could be the thermocouple. I don’t have a great reason for thinking something is wrong with the thermocouple, it just seems like a common issue with these fridges.

I have cleaned the flue and made sure there are no spider webs obstructing the flame. I recognize I have not done a thorough job testing the point of failure, but I wanted to get some input first. It’s an old fridge, and I do not believe there is a control board. Additionally, fuses are not mentioned in the manual. I’m sure there are some back there. I have played around behind the fridge, but have not been able to identify any fuses.

Again, this issue happened after I did not use the fridge for two weeks. It feels strange the 12v would stop working from that. Anyways, let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

Fridges work on 12v even when plugged into 120v (the eyebrow where power button is 12v) your battery needs to be between 12.2 and 12.8 but if it drops to 10.5 the fridge won't even turn on.

[scampero]

The RM2410 does not run on 12V. It's 120 or propane only, it is a very basic model. It doesn't even have a control board, and no eyebrow panel, or power button. I have mine disassembled right now troubleshooting a faulty thermostat and possibly also the thermocouple.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by scampero

The RM2410 does not run on 12V. It's 120 or propane only, it is a very basic model. It doesn't even have a control board, and no eyebrow panel, or power button. I have mine disassembled right now troubleshooting a faulty thermostat and possibly also the thermocouple.

If it is a Dometic Fridge, it has a control board. And you still need 12 vdc power for the control board, in any mode you select, for the fridge to function. No 12 vdc, no fridge....

[scampero]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

If it is a Dometic Fridge, it has a control board. And you still need 12 vdc power for the control board, in any mode you select, for the fridge to function. No 12 vdc, no fridge....

If it is a 2-way model it does not. I have one open right now. No control board or DC.

Here's the schematic

[Casita Greg]

You still need 12 VDC for it to work...

[scampero]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

You still need 12 VDC for it to work...

I posted the schematic. You can plug it into an extension cord in the garage and it'll work. That's what I did to diagnose the faulty thermostat. It is not wired into a 12V circuit in any way. You must be thinking of the 3-way model

[Casita Greg]

OK, whatever guy... It's yours.

[scampero]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

OK, whatever guy... It's yours.

Not sure why you're arguing with me. I posted the schematic, and I have one disassembled in front of me.

You don't have any experience with this model fridge, that's ok, no disrespect.


For the OP or anyone else that comes along later, not all Dometic fridges have control boards. The RM4210 is an older model.

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by scampero

Not sure why you're arguing with me. I posted the schematic, and I have one disassembled in front of me.

You don't have any experience with this model fridge, that's ok, no disrespect.


For the OP or anyone else that comes along later, not all Dometic fridges have control boards. The RM4210 is an older model.

I was about to post the same thing, you need 12V dc, but did a quick search and found the same wiring diagram. The owners manual has two listed, the other one does indeed have 12V to it, this one appears not to. Interesting.

[Lynn Eberhardt]

Our '06 Scamp has Model #2193 3 way fridge. It uses 12 volt DC only when running in that constant on mode, for traveling. There is no control board. LP operation requires no 12 volt. It has a hi/md/lo/off gas valve to set the flame size according ambient temp.

[daveandalice]

I looked at the service manual for the 2410 which shows the 120vac schematic that scampero provided, it also shows the ignition circuit which is a piezo pushbutton similar to a bbq pit and the gas valve is also manual, basically it operates like a gas hot water heater with manual pushbutton ignition.

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...ice-Manual.pdf

[Big Turkey]

Hey everyone - thanks for the reply’s. I won’t be able to take a thorough look at the fridge until Sunday. I’ll post an update Sunday evening. Going to run some tests on the battery and thermocouple. Hopefully, I’ll be able to diagnose the problem.

Also - it is a 3-way fridge. The three options on the fridge are “12V”, “ELEC”, and “GAS”.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2510_52.pdf

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by Big Turkey

Hey everyone - thanks for the reply’s. I won’t be able to take a thorough look at the fridge until Sunday. I’ll post an update Sunday evening. Going to run some tests on the battery and thermocouple. Hopefully, I’ll be able to diagnose the problem.

Also - it is a 3-way fridge. The three options on the fridge are “12V”, “ELEC”, and “GAS”.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2510_52.pdf

Do you have a 2410 or a 2510?

[Jim Park]

If the fridge does not work on propane, perhaps the regulator on the front of the trailer needs replacement. The fridge in our trailer worked on propane with no 12v supply.

[ROBERT ONEILL]

This model does not need any electricity from 12volt or 120volt to operate when in the gas only mode. It uses a thermocouple on the pilot light as its only safety device to keep it lite. If the pilot lite goes out it shuts off. The pilot lite is only for the gas/propane mode. It has heating elements that is 12volts dc to power absorption system when set to 12volt. It also has a 120 volt heating element to operate on 120 volt. If the thermocouple is bad it will only stop it from working only in the gas/propane mode................

The pilot lite is not needed in either electric modes...........

The pilot light flame should be blue not orange. If it is orange it will make soot on the thermocouple and keep it from getting hot enough to allow the propane to flow to keep it lite.

[Jon Vermilye]

The thermocouple does need to work when operating in the AC (120v) mode. The thermocouple is connected to a diaphragm in the thermostat via a capillary tube. The thermostat internal diaphragm (that opens & closes the propane valve) also opens & closes a switch in series with 120v element. I have had to replace 2 thermostats in an RM2510 because of failure of the linkage between the diaphragm & the switch. Depending on how the linkage fails, it can only cause 120V AC failure, or failure of both AC & gas.