Dometic Fridge RM 211 heating element replacement - anyone else need one? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-13-2020, 03:09 PM   #1
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Name: Liz
Trailer: Triple-E Surf-Side
Alberta
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Question Dometic Fridge RM 211 heating element replacement - anyone else need one?

Is anyone else interested in a new element for their Dometic RM 211 fridge? Part no. 2901943-000MC

Our little camper fridge runs fine on propane but my husband won't be happy until it runs on electricity again too. Honestly I would rather keep the old fridge running and not have to retrofit a newer model fridge, which is a fair bit deeper and won't fit as well...

I definitely can't find available catalogue parts for it anywhere, so I've contacted an industrial manufacturer with the element specs to request a quote for making one.

I'd be willing to order a couple extra if they're not too expensive, help some other fellow FiberglassRV comrades out. I know there's a couple posts on here with people trying to find that part.
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:08 PM   #2
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Name: Phil
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500 (previously a 1978 Trillium 4500, Rpod 171 and Surveyor SV251)
Nova Scotia
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Hi, Id be interested in getting one as a spare but we took our fridge to a Rv fridge specialist in New Brunswick last year called Dads Marine and RV Refrigeration. He also could not get the original part but with his expertise and experience he was able to modify a similar part to fit.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:14 PM   #3
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Name: Liz
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Alberta
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Yes I've seen their site... maybe I should contact them if you got one from them...

Being in Alberta there's a ton of specialty fab shops, I figured they should be able to help me out, already got someone working on it.

Will pm you to ask for the details of your order so I can reference that work to the east coast company.
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Old 04-14-2021, 01:41 PM   #4
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Name: Brent
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Hi Lizbun,

We have the same issue on the same fridge. Works on propane but not electricity. (Also in Alberta!) Any luck with acquiring this part?
Q: how did you diagnose the problem to the element?

Many thanks!
-Brent
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper Brent View Post
Hi Lizbun,

We have the same issue on the same fridge. Works on propane but not electricity. (Also in Alberta!) Any luck with acquiring this part?
Q: how did you diagnose the problem to the element?

Many thanks!
-Brent
Brent, Check the resistance of the 120 VAC, and the 12 VDC connections to the heater. Below is a cut from the RM211 manual:
Click image for larger version

Name:	RM211 <a title=Electrical.JPG Views: 2 Size: 34.1 KB ID: 140314" style="margin: 2px" />

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...FrigManual.pdf
In the upper right of the wiring diagram are the heaters. The manual says that the heaters are 95W.
Power = Voltage x Current
Power/Voltage=Current
95W/110V=0.86Amps

Voltage/Resistance=Current
Voltage/Current=Resistance
110V/0.86A=128 Ohms

So, from the black wire to the red wire, there should be about 128 Ohms.

The process above can be shortened by replacing Current in the first power formula with V/R or P=V/R this is rearainged to solve for Resistance:
R=V/P
R=12/95
R=144/95
R=1.52 ohms

So, from the brown wire to the black wire, there should be about 1.5 ohms.

Below is a picture of where this terminal strip can be found:
Click image for larger version

Name:	RM211 connections 2.jpg
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Size:	103.7 KB
ID:	140315
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Old 04-15-2021, 04:05 PM   #6
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Name: Brent
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Alberta
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Thanks David!

Your an incredible resource! I appreciate your time, and knowledge.
This info should come in handy in the very near future to help me trouble shoot the electrical situation, hopefully make the repairs needed, and be up and running shorly there after.

Wish me luck! And thanks again!!
Stay positive Fiberglass RV community!
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Old 04-15-2021, 06:04 PM   #7
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Name: bill
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One other thing to look at is the 120V pigtail itself. On my camper, it was badly degraded, exposed wire. Most of this pigtail is not visible from the lower outer fridge hatch.

In my pictures, you can see how the insulating jacket on the wire had failed. In my case, after replacing this pigtail, fridge works fine on 120V. I did the test that Dave refers to above.
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76F6FEE2-8F12-4081-8FD8-398579F65A01.jpg  
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Old 04-16-2021, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
One other thing to look at is the 120V pigtail itself. On my camper, it was badly degraded, exposed wire. Most of this pigtail is not visible from the lower outer fridge hatch.

In my pictures, you can see how the insulating jacket on the wire had failed. In my case, after replacing this pigtail, fridge works fine on 120V. I did the test that Dave refers to above.
Just curious, did you get something close to 128 ohms?
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Old 04-16-2021, 10:48 AM   #9
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Name: Gordon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper Brent View Post
..
Q: how did you diagnose the problem to the element?

..
Google is my friend... http://www.bdub.net/manuals/DometicBulletin12-87.pdf
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Old 04-16-2021, 02:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Just curious, did you get something close to 128 ohms?
Yes I dont recall exact reading but it was close.
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Old 04-18-2021, 09:49 AM   #11
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Great help well done learned as well Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:52 AM   #12
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One day, I will pull the heater on one of my fridges, (when it breaks) and construct a new heater element. This is not rocket surgery. If you google, “Heating Element Wire” Cr25Ni20, (similar to Austenitic stainless steel) seems to be an available alloy for this purpose. Cr25Al5 is also fairly common, but I am reluctant to use aluminum. Coil it up in a length that meets the resistance numbers generated previously, and a diameter that is slightly smaller than the existing element. I would probably use a larger gauge of wire on the 12VDC side, (more current). Then encase it in some heat resistant grout. There is more to it thant this, (like attaching the copper lead wires) but doable.
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