Dometic Frig, won't stay lit when traveling - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-06-2020, 07:24 PM   #1
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Dometic Frig, won't stay lit when traveling

I'm a new RV person and we've just started our first long trip - 4 weeks, 4,500 miles. My Casita is 20 years old and has a 2-way Dometic frig. It works fine on either propane or A/C when parked, but today (our first day of the trip), it wouldn't stay lit while driving. Relights easily when parked and then continues to work fine.

Anybody have any ideas on what to do? I know it's possible to keep the frig closed for the day and we won't heat up too much, but I'd really like to keep everything as cold as possible.

I did take out the burner and thermocouple and blew it with compressed air 10 days ago. It works great parked. Just when driving it's proved to be an issue.

Advice welcome . . .

R.
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Old 08-06-2020, 07:29 PM   #2
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Some have built wind guard shields out of thin aluminum (think flashing material from big box store) and mounted that around the burner area to the outside vent door so side winds couldn't hit the burner.
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Old 08-06-2020, 07:43 PM   #3
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Some have built wind guard shields out of thin aluminum (think flashing material from big box store) and mounted that around the burner area to the outside vent door so side winds couldn't hit the burner.
Thanks Charlie. Mine has a simple formed metal shield but clearly it's not adequate to protect it from highway speed driving. Do you think there is any downside to adding additional tinfoil protection around the assembly? Other than the wind simply blowing out the flame, can you think of anything else that could be going on?

R.
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Old 08-06-2020, 08:36 PM   #4
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Nope, seems a good solution. You could do a more thorough search for hints on the Casita Forum


https://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/
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Old 08-07-2020, 04:34 AM   #5
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You also might try cutting and attaching a piece of window screen to the back side of the slotted (ventilated) access hatch. It might break up the swirling wind caused by highway travel enough to prevent flame blow out but it will not really affect air flow when parked.
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Old 08-07-2020, 06:26 AM   #6
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I highly recommend a flame shield but I would start off by having the regulator pressure checked. A weak flame is blown out easily while traveling. Casita's usually travel well on LP unlike some other trailer models. Your regulator pressure should be set with 50% trailer BTU load of the LP being used. With everything off your pressure will read a little over 1"WC high.
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Old 08-07-2020, 10:42 AM   #7
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In the past with campers I have had that problem with, I had good luck by using a small house type ac filter taped inside the vent door if you have enough space so it won't be to close to the burner.
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Old 08-07-2020, 11:30 AM   #8
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wind scfreen

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You also might try cutting and attaching a piece of window screen to the back side of the slotted (ventilated) access hatch. It might break up the swirling wind caused by highway travel enough to prevent flame blow out but it will not really affect air flow when parked.
Would that window screen also keep spiders out of the assembly that plug up the lines?
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Old 08-07-2020, 12:47 PM   #9
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Flame

Cut a piece of solid insulation to fit from door side wall and just past flame and put it against the outside opener(fits snug). Never have had flame go out. The insulation stops vapors from coming into the flame.
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Old 08-07-2020, 12:56 PM   #10
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It's dangerous to drive and have a propane appliance running. In many jurisdictions it is illegal. (BC, for example) Just think about the dangers of having an open flame at a service station or a road accident.
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Old 08-07-2020, 02:17 PM   #11
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It's dangerous to drive and have a propane appliance running. In many jurisdictions it is illegal. (BC, for example) Just think about the dangers of having an open flame at a service station or a road accident.

For Crying Out Loud. It is not dangerous and is not illegal. You turn off the appliance while fuelling and on ferries, in some tunnels.
Find me one DMV that says it is illegal. Don't bother posting any that are not from government sites.


From Jim Bennett post:
Six or seven years ago I bothered to contact the Ministries of Transport in each Province and Territory in Canada, as well as the Federal Transport Ministry, and every one of them confirmed it was fine to drive with the fridge on propane, except where specifically posted otherwise, like on pretty much all ferries.


And, I got this from Transport Canada:
Re: running refrigerator on road - Transport Canada response
Hi Glenn:

Your question was forwarded to the Inspector Education and Public Awareness Division of the Transportation of Dangerous Goods (TDG) Directorate within Transport Canada for response.

The answer is yes, under the Federal Transportation of Dangerous Goods (TDG) Regulations the refrigeration system may be used while the RV trailer is in transit. However, we suggest that you contact the province in which you intend to operate your vehicle to verify if they have any additional requirements. For instance, you may not be able to operate your system in a tunnel or you may be limited to two cylinders. Also, you may face other limitations when you’re on a ferry. Finally, we suggest that you verify with your trailer manufacturer to verify their position on this subject.
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Old 08-07-2020, 05:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
I highly recommend a flame shield but I would start off by having the regulator pressure checked. A weak flame is blown out easily while traveling. Casita's usually travel well on LP unlike some other trailer models. Your regulator pressure should be set with 50% trailer BTU load of the LP being used. With everything off your pressure will read a little over 1"WC high.
Eddie
Thanks for the tip Eddie. How do you check the regulator? Is that something an individual can do or do you need to be at a propane supplier or RV service shop? The regulator looks to be as old as my trailer (21 years).

R.
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Old 08-07-2020, 05:24 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by thunderworks View Post
Thanks for the tip Eddie. How do you check the regulator? Is that something an individual can do or do you need to be at a propane supplier or RV service shop? The regulator looks to be as old as my trailer (21 years).



R.


I’ve never ever heard it is illegal either... why post things like this w/o any documentation to support...
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:44 PM   #14
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Manometer

Anyone who does LP work can should have one. This is a Manometer from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d-b31d6b1bfbee Pretty simple to use just connect to your gas line. It compares the gas pressure to atmosphere.
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:04 PM   #15
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Would that window screen also keep spiders out of the assembly that plug up the lines?
Yes, of screen covers entire opening it should keep a lot of spiders and all mud daubers out. If screen doesn’t stop flame blow out, then as others have stated, the material found in an air conditioner filter will usually work.
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
I highly recommend a flame shield but I would start off by having the regulator pressure checked. A weak flame is blown out easily while traveling. Casita's usually travel well on LP unlike some other trailer models. Your regulator pressure should be set with 50% trailer BTU load of the LP being used. With everything off your pressure will read a little over 1"WC high.
Eddie
Don’t you mean 11” of WC, Eddie?
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:11 PM   #17
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11 WC is correct for the setting with 50% BTU load for setting the regulator. When everything is off the pressure usually increases to slightly over 12 WC. 1 WC high compared to the recommended setting of 11WC.
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by thunderworks View Post
,, How do you check the regulator? Is that something an individual can do or do you need to be at a propane supplier or RV service shop? ...
SEE: The RV Doctor: What the Pro's Do - Propane System
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Old 08-08-2020, 05:11 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
11 WC is correct for the setting with 50% BTU load for setting the regulator. When everything is off the pressure usually increases to slightly over 12 WC. 1 WC high compared to the recommended setting of 11WC.
Eddie
My mistake. I missed the word “high” in your original post. Guess I didn’t read it carefully enough.
I adjusted my regulator (by manometer) to 11.5” WC primarily because I typically only use propane to operate the refrigerator, and most usually when towing. I have only used the furnace three times, twice to take the chill off and once when I didn’t have shore power in Jasper in the Canadian Rockies. I do not believe, in 5 years, in my current trailer I have had two separate gas powered appliances running at the same time.
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Old 08-08-2020, 09:01 AM   #20
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[QUOTE=Glenn Baglo;788422]For Crying Out Loud.




I had the same problem while driving with my older Dometic fridge. I made my heat shield from a piece of galvanized flashing material and it fixed it. Just a loose fitting baffle. If using tin foil, don't wrap the burner area where the fuel mixes with the air, the air shutter area, such that it will affect the mixture. Just try to keep the wind off the pilot.
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