Dometic RM 211 Refrigerator help - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:55 PM   #1
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Dometic RM 211 Refrigerator help

Hi everyone, I need help. The Dometic RM211 refrig. in my Scamp has quit working on 120 ac. I assume it is the heater. 1. Is there a source for parts for this unit? 2. How do you remove the unit? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:38 PM   #2
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Check the simple things first. Unplug the fridge and plug in a lamp in its place to verify that there is actual ac going to the fridge. A bad socket, breaker or plug will keep the 120 volt heater from working properly. From there make sure there is the proper voltage coming out of the selector switch and through the thermostat regulator.
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:50 PM   #3
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the parts list for that fridge is available on the forum.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/manuals/...parts-list.pdf

Item #9 on page 5 appears to be the heating element.

Searched using Google for Dometic RM211 parts and found this site which lists it as the last item in the first block.
Refrigerators, Univ. Heating Elements, Dometic which looks like it uses a "universal" replacement.

This site lists a 95 watt for the RM211 with call for pricing.
DNL Recreation Inc.-HEATING ELEMENTS FOR ABSORPTION REFRIGERATORS By MC ENTERPRISES

Having evidence that there is a "universal" replacement, and some place that sells them (or has) makes me think you can get one with some checking around. And you have the specifications & part number in the forum link.
Happy Hunting.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:02 PM   #4
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Thanks, Steve and Rodger for your reply. Steve I did check the normal causes and everything appears to be working. Rodger, thanks for the information I was able to locate a new heater for $115.00 I hope it works. Thanks again Guys. Joe
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:31 PM   #5
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Put an ohmmeter across the leads to the heating element ( element should be disconnected). You should have a reading of Approx 150 ohms based on a 95 watt element at 120 VAC . The ohm test will tell you if the element is shorted,or burned open. Many companies will not take returns on electrical parts and you could get stuck with a $115 part you don't need
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Put an ohmmeter across the leads to the heating element ( element should be disconnected). You should have a reading of Approx 150 ohms based on a 95 watt element at 120 VAC . The ohm test will tell you if the element is shorted,or burned open. Many companies will not take returns on electrical parts and you could get stuck with a $115 part you don't need
My Dometic 211 cools on 120 but not on 12V, is there something I can test, or test and replace to hopefully help it cool better on 12V. I have cooled to very cold with 120 then changed to 12V and all it does is get warmer and warmer and warmer as time goes on, so definitely nada at 12V.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:30 PM   #7
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Same issue as the 120 problem above and, as I recall, the same place has the aftermarket heating element for the same price. But verify that there is 12 volts getting to the heating element first.


The west coast warehouse for Dometic is 6 miles from my house and I got a new LP jet there at will call via my dealer, but $28 for a little dinky part about the size of a #10 washer was a pain. But I needed it and it was noon on a Friday... no problemo...



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Old 07-23-2015, 06:58 PM   #8
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I had the same issue with the RM211 I am reusing in the Trillium I am rebuilding. The element worked on 12V, but not on 120V. I spent an exhausting number of hours trying to track down a replacement, with hopes lifted a few times, only to be shut down. I finally bought a whole salvaged furnace off of Kijiji, which was cleaner too. With a bit of scrubbing, and a touch of white paint, it looks really good. The true test is when I install it shortly.
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:57 PM   #9
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To be honest I do not know why one would bother with getting it to work on 12V. In my experience your going to have a tough time keeping your battery charged running it on 12V. A serious power hog!
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:02 AM   #10
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To be honest I do not know why one would bother with getting it to work on 12V. In my experience your going to have a tough time keeping your battery charged running it on 12V. A serious power hog!
Id like to use the 12V when towing and hooked to the tow vehicle. From what Ive read, it is not advisable to use propane when towing, and b) the propane will often blow out on older units when towing.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:04 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Same issue as the 120 problem above and, as I recall, the same place has the aftermarket heating element for the same price. But verify that there is 12 volts getting to the heating element first.


The west coast warehouse for Dometic is 6 miles from my house and I got a new LP jet there at will call via my dealer, but $28 for a little dinky part about the size of a #10 washer was a pain. But I needed it and it was noon on a Friday... no problemo...
Thanks bob, I know the unit is getting 12 V coming in, but those darn wires connector hub I so small, im thinking about just connecting the incoming wires directly to the fuse and the other gray wire.

I read on another post that some people just bring 12V directly from the battery to the fridge, because so much amperage is lost in the wiring harness and running through small wires/splits etc.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:13 AM   #12
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Many, if not most, rv's run 2 & 3 way refrigerators on LP gas while under way.


Except when getting gas, I had mine ON 24/7 last month for a 30 day/5000 mile trip, as I have always done for the past 35+ years of RV'ing.


The manufacturers of them, Including Dometic, make no such recommendation to turn them off while underway and they, because of 100,000's of units, would have the most to loose if it was dangerous.


All claims otherwise are seemingly: a) anecdotal , b) based on unfounded opinions or, c) based on knowledge of singular events that may or may not have been related to operating a refrigerator on LP while under way.



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Old 07-24-2015, 02:37 PM   #13
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Many, if not most, rv's run 2 & 3 way refrigerators on LP gas while under way.
Bob as you well know from a very frequent thread the above statement is VERY over stated! As you discovered there are a number of folks here who do not run on LP when under way and there are even some Highway departments that would prefer you didnt as well.

Re the use of the 12V when towing. The OP may need to increase the gage of wire used on the tug if its is factory wiring. I know my tugs charge line can not keep up to the draw of the fridge on the battery. I actually tired it again just last week while coming home for the Oregon meet last week..... temps in the highs 90's and the battery did not fair well after only about 5 hours of towing like that.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:47 PM   #14
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Many, if not most, rv's run 2 & 3 way refrigerators on LP gas while under way.
I always use 12V while under way. 10 gauge charging wire works fine.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:25 PM   #15
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"and there are even some Highway departments that would prefer you didn't as well." (italics added)



I have heard this "rumored", but have, other than for specific locations such as tunnels, ever seen anything in writing. Do you have any specifics? I ask this only because urban mythology has a way of growing and is often used as a claim supporting the supposed "Danger" of using LP while underway.


Of course, some highway departments would "prefer" that we never exceed 80 KM/HR also... LOL


BTW: I don't know that my statement is "overstated". My own experience with RV owners, especially with mini-motorhomes, has been that it's a correct statement.


I really think that we have to put this "myth" to bed, or, "This horse is dead, it's time to get off..."



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