Door frame out of square on Jubilee

[farmboy]

An interesting observation about our '79 Jubilee. The door frame had a crack in the bottom left corner when we bought it. I had assumed it was from normal traffic over the past 30+ years, the seller was certainly no help at all. But I now know why the crack developed -- I think. The jack at the front of the trailer and the stabilizers at the rear are actually a touch too tall. They need to sit in a small 'hollow' in the ground to sit level. The PO went to great lengths to tell me that he usually set the front of the trailer on the ground and then lowered the back stabilizers on the bumper, then lifting the front and swinging the jack down. He would then proceed to adjust the jack to level. However, if you do not create small dugouts for each stabilizer and the jack you basically end up with a literal 'sag' in the trailer. The frame is fine, but the stabilizers at the back are lifting up, the jack at the front is lifting up, and the axle is staying put. The fiberglass is moving to accommodate. It's not visibly out of line but its enough to make the door scrape in the bottom corner on closing. The door closed freely before leaving on our trip, it would bind on closing at the campsite, and closed freely when we parked it at home without the rear stabilizers down. I will use my shovel next time.
Golfers, please replace your divots.

Also, the door has almost 1/8" play vertically in the hinges. Minor stuff, but I found that putting an electrical u-shaped connector in the gap at the three hinge points makes everything nice. I will replace it with a permanent fix using solid core wire later on.

[Bob Miller]

Maybe a few pics of the problem areas would help get some responses.
BTW: Is a Jubilee a Trillium model name?

[farmboy]

Yep, the Jubilee is a Trillium model made for a couple of years. I think the jury is still out on exactly what years but mine's a '79. I think they were built from 78 to....81? Anyway, I'll dig out my camera and get a shot of the area fairly soon.

[farmboy]

these are a couple of shots of the lower left frame corner


this is looking down at it



...and looking at it from outside





it looks like there was a shot of primer on it, maybe from when they tried to 'repair' it.

[OscarD]

I don't think the door was built with a long life in mind.
The frame worked itself out at the left corner. After much head scratching got aggressive when it was parked against a wall-- pushed it back and sunk 6 screws into the wood behind but think the wood is not tight . Next step pull it all out and make it good.
The door itself needed work. The glass slipped down-- plastic surround broken. The contact cement connecting the aluminum panels to the wood/cardboard corrigation had given up. After lots of new glue and screws--- still shifts when given a little lift. That work was more than a weekend project.
Must say the screen door is great!
p.s. A round vinyl pillow door bumper at the belly band saves the door.

[farmboy]

here was my door buffer solution. Basically the same, just I had a bumper and a receiver for it. the belt does not hit. The door is held open with a simple bungee cord/tent peg.

[Joe Romas]

My 1999 Casita 17' SD looks to have the same door.
The door frame misalignment is from the trailer's frame being contorted from jacking.

My door when on the wheels and front jack only is properly aligned.

But when I use the jacks I mounted on the frame between the bumper and wheels the top of the door on the latch side (rear) hits the top of the door frame. I solved it by placing a small Bal stabilizer just behind the door.

The weld in the lower rear corner of my door frame is also cracked but there's no gap.

I would think if "Oscars and Farmboys" pictures are with the trailer sitting on the axle and front jack only that there are frame problems.

But the dissertation Oscars previous owner gave I think the jacks are too much and something like these BALL 23026 stabilizers are in order.
BAL Light Trailer Stabilizing Jacks 20 - $51.90
I have one of these just behind my door and raise it only enough to "square up" the door in the opening.

I used silver RTV in the crack.




Joe

[farmboy]

I certainly agree, the rear fold down stab jacks are too long. If used without trenching a shallow hole for them to sit in, they push up on the back of the trailer, while the front jack will do the same thing, so another 'divot' is in order to relieve the stress . I've been under the trailer with a flashlight, wire brush, and tremclad black, and from what I could see the frame is intact, I saw no other issues of any concern. As stated earlier, out comes the shovel when I use the rear stabs.