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Old 11-03-2017, 11:35 PM   #21
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luxus Panzer View Post
Thank you for the detailed reply.

I will have a look at this this weekend.

Question, if I need to slot and move the hinge "up" a bit to take some weight, does this mean it has always been like this since the factory?

Thanks.
It means gravity is at work as well as a careless previous owner contributing to the problem.

So easy to leave it open while unsupported and hanging on its hinges for hours at a time to get in the fresh air and make it easy to go in and out when camping. Make an adjustable height support piece to put under the door to take the stress off the hinges if you want to leave it open.

Also don't grab onto the door to help support yourself when going in and out the door. Train yourself to use a grab bar instead. Sure grab the door knob to keep the wind from slamming the door but don't put your weight on it.

On my Campster trailer a previous owner broke the welds at the corner of the door frame as well as cracking the corners of the foor cut out opening in the shell because they always grabbed onto the door frame when going in and out of the trailer instead of using a step stool and putting in a grab bar on the outside and blocking behind the grab bar on the inside. I started out doing the same exact thing because I need to grab onto the strong steel frame of my friend's van to boost myself up and into it. But then I realized that learned behavior pattern was going to ruin my trailer and undo any repairs I would make to fix the doorway so I focused on retraining myself on how to enter and leave the trailer. Of course I also repaired and renovated the doorway framing to make it more stout.

A lot of door problems on trailers are created by owners who don't think about the consequences of how they are treating the door, the hinges and the door frame.
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Old 11-04-2017, 06:31 AM   #22
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Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
I assume the hinge pictures are in order, The top hinge first then the bottom hing.

The door fit in the opening is good, to maintain that alignment you would want to adjust the lower hinge to take some of the weight BUT, the door leaf on the upper hinge is angled down towards the pivot, loosening the upper door leaf and aligning it so the pivot arm is straight will lower the load to the lower hinge but also lower the door in the opening slightly. .

I would start by adjusting the upper hinge as described above, check the fit and function. Just remember after adjusting open the door slightly and wiggle the door, ther should not be any obvious play in either hinge.
The pics are labeled "Top" and "bottom". As noted the hinge with the stress cracks is the bottom.

So If I understand correctly, I should focus my efforts on the bottom hinge alignment in order to align the hinge body with the door frame and also to "lift" the bottom hinge a bit to take some weight off the top hinge. ??
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:07 AM   #23
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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Sorry about that, yes I see the labels now
Make your adjustments on the lower hinge body side. that leaf needs to be rotated slightly counter-clockwise to straighten the ball seat and raised slightly to take the weight of the door. Use a 1/4" drill and carefully slot the lower of the 3 holes straight up about 1/8" in the fibreglass body, the center and upper holes slot up and to the right about 3/16", this will raise and rotate the hinge leaf
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:31 AM   #24
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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ian I am about ready to order a hinge rebuld kit from you but yesterday looking at the striker I note it isn't even close to correct. to get it right is a big deal is this a common thing with a scamp?


thanks


bob
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:35 AM   #25
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
Ohio
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Judging by the stress cracks by the upper two bolts and comparing the margin between the door seal and hinge with the top hinge it looks to me the problem is on the TOP TWO bolts.

But yes it needs to be rotated counter clockwise.

It were me I would unbolt the body part of the lower hinge and see exactly what holes are wobbled out, they may need some kind of repair

I'm betting it's on the top two.
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:39 AM   #26
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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in looking at this picture is this the correct way the hinges are supposed to look.


bob
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:40 AM   #27
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Trailer: Scamp
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I will remove the lower hinge today and snap some pics of the hole.

Stand by please.
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:45 AM   #28
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
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well after looking at other pictures I see I have some work to do. I guess I have worn out insides to the hinges and one hinge has dropped just like Luxus s door. in looking at the door where the hinge mounts I don't see any play to be had but there must be some play adjustments I cannot see.


man I hate getting into this I can just see hours of working!!


bob
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:03 AM   #29
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Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
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Panzer.

This thread is getting too confusing

It seems that KC and BOB also have hinge problems and it's hard to follow.

Sounds like your on the right track so this will be my last post on the subject.

I have a carpentry and automotive background, own a Casita, have aligned automotive, house hold and my Casita door and also have seen a Scamp with hinge problems.

So if you have any problems I might be able to help with send me a p-mail

Joe
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:06 AM   #30
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
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kind offer

joe thanks for the kind offer I ordered the hinge rebuild kit not from scamp I think the other alternative just looks better.

I am thinking when I rebuild those hinges a whole new bunch of problems are going to surface. I know my bottom hinge is sagging I am assuming there must be an adjustment slot under the hinges I suppose I will find out soon.

Looks like ship time on my order will be a couple of weeks so I can start researching these things.

I have a good seal until I get to the bottom and the striker is not aligned with the handle part. Another new problem may be solved when I adjust the door.

I have a pretty smart mechanic so I may have to get him involved too!

thanks

bob

bob
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Old 11-04-2017, 12:51 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
joe thanks for the kind offer I ordered the hinge rebuild kit not from scamp I think the other alternative just looks better.

I am thinking when I rebuild those hinges a whole new bunch of problems are going to surface. I know my bottom hinge is sagging I am assuming there must be an adjustment slot under the hinges I suppose I will find out soon.

Looks like ship time on my order will be a couple of weeks so I can start researching these things.

I have a good seal until I get to the bottom and the striker is not aligned with the handle part. Another new problem may be solved when I adjust the door.

I have a pretty smart mechanic so I may have to get him involved too!

thanks

bob

bob
Hi Bob
Sounds like you bought my Stainless Steel Hinge Repair Kit, you will be very happy with it .... I Thank You

Repairing the hinges and aligning the door is usually fairly straight forward. I have a huge amount of experience helping owners with their door, Instructions and my email are included with the kit you ordered and I am to help you if you have any questions you may have.
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:39 PM   #32
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Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
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I just pulled the door off to see if I can adjust the hinge.

Answer is there is about 1mm of adjustment (next to nothing) The holes in the fiberglass are not that much bigger than the bolts.

I think this has been misaligned since the factory (7 years)

After this inspection I agree 100% that there is not enough weight on the bottom hinge and the brass ball is barely being "compressed"

Here are some pics and a video showing how much I would have to enlarge the holes to get the hinge to look "straight"

2017-11-04_03-23-25 by Z R, on Flickr

CLICK FOR VIDEO

VID_20171104_140346 by Z R, on Flickr

I also noticed that one of the bolts was so short it would bottom out in the acorn nut before being tight, a few washers fixed this.

2017-11-04_03-22-37 by Z R, on Flickr


I may just install some "rona/homedepo" seal for the winter and save my new scamp seal until I figure this out. As you can see the factory seal is gone in one place

2017-11-04_03-23-07 by Z R, on Flickr
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Old 11-04-2017, 02:45 PM   #33
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ok ian thank you very much


bob
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Old 11-04-2017, 03:01 PM   #34
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
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If the holes are oversized you can try a quick fix. As with any quick fix trick it may or may not work but it cost very little to give it a go.

At your local hardware or auto parts store purchase some very thin brass shim. Brass is a self lubricating metal meaning it is slippery so it is a good choice for this fix since it won't bind up the joint. But it is also a bit soft so that it will conform.

Create a ring of it by wrapping it tight around the bolt then trim so there is no overlap. If needed trim the width of the shim. Then see if you can slip that into the oversized hole and still get the bolt in. That brass piece will hopefully take up any slack and tighten things up without binding the hinge movement. It might be a little snug and first so just work the door back a forth to seat it better.
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Old 11-04-2017, 06:48 PM   #35
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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Hi Lexus, I described what you need to do in post 23, slotting the holes (enlarging them slightly) in the direction I indicate will provide the adjustment you need (or very close) it may take a few attempts. You can make the bolt shorter so the acorn nut does not bottom out by simply adding a washer or two on the inside of the body just under the bolt head
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:44 PM   #36
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Trailer: Scamp
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I am seeing this now.

I was just hoping to avoid taking a round file to the holes to enlarge them.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:19 AM   #37
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Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
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I got home yesterdy to +5C temps and rain. Right before bed it turned to snow. Then in the morning everything is iced up and its -21C with the windchill.

2017-11-10_10-09-15 by

Looks like my door hinge fix and door seal install are on hild until the weather cooperates.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:23 AM   #38
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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luxus sorry about your weather sounds like you are in winter now! by the way my hinges are mounted at an angle just like yours I am thinking I am leaving mine just the way they are but still rebuilding the hinges internals.


in talking to another owner he has the same year but his are mounted straight. I have to wonder why this is?


maybe Ian will tell us!


bob
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:19 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
luxus sorry about your weather sounds like you are in winter now! by the way my hinges are mounted at an angle just like yours I am thinking I am leaving mine just the way they are but still rebuilding the hinges internals.


in talking to another owner he has the same year but his are mounted straight. I have to wonder why this is?


maybe Ian will tell us!

bob
I too am sorry that the weather has delayed your repairs, in my area the snow is here for the season.

The hinge leafs should be installed straight, that way the pivot point of the hinge (the brass ball) is square to the load, if they have been installed at an angle the load will be off centre. There is no reason they would be installed at an angle other than poor assembly.
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:12 AM   #40
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looked at the hinges closely

ian

I am going to do the hinge rebuild and leave the hinges angled like they are. I don't know if rebuilding is going to change things or not I will see. in looking at these hinges and how they are put on the door must have worked correctly when put on originally.

I find some from owners are put on straight and some are put on at an angle I guess I need to call scamper as to why this is!

bob
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