Double axle vs single axle - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-01-2018, 12:52 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Uplander View Post
I can assume a single axel two wheel set up might present a real safety problem in maintaining control with a flat....perhaps other veterans of RV towing might share their experiences with flats on two wheel trainers.

You do a lot of assuming.
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:55 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
I read your response with interest. I am about ready to buy a 21 Escape. I'm just now tweaking the build sheet. Escape offers three different hitch configurations:
1. Equalizer Hitch $350.00
2. Equalizer Hitch with Sway Control $475.00
3. E2 - Integrated Sway Control and Weight Distribution Hitch $625.00

As you probably already know, the Escape also has a double axle. Several people I have talked to argue that with a double axle I won't need the E2 setup. Others argue that it works really great for them -- 'and why take a chance'?

My tow vehicle will be a 2018 Highlander XLE. Tow capacity according to Toyota is 5,000#/500#.

Perhaps it would be prudent to error on the side of caution and purchase the E2? I never will attempt to maximize these weight limits BTW. Thanks for any feedback.
I have a 2018 Escape 19 and a 2018 highlander 4wd. I found that the rear of the vehicle squats too much with the trailer properly loaded without a WDH. My Reese hitch is combo WDH and sway control and works great. I would defintiely use one with a 21.
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Old 12-01-2018, 02:22 PM   #63
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Glenn, Fact is I have had 3 trailer tires go flat in my 40+ years towing a RV.
All had two axels and 4 tires and that gave the rig stability.
Since the original post was seeking information about single axel vs twin axels
The stability factor might be of interest when things don’t go perfectly.
We only think about problems in hindsight but some advanced knowledge could save the day.
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Old 12-01-2018, 02:27 PM   #64
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I've read several posts from people with single axle Escapes who said getting a flat was remarkably uneventful. Have also read of people with dual axles having a flat and not noticing. Shredded tire beat the wheel well to bits ( they were stickies mostly ).
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Old 12-01-2018, 02:35 PM   #65
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We had a single axle 13 ft. Scamp for a while but found an Escape 19 ft double axle so upgraded. Yes, more weight but pulls smooth and feels safer. We to have a 2500 and can sometimes forget we are towing it is so easy.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:30 PM   #66
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In the late '50s and early '60s I used to see these being towed behind Cadillacs and Lincolns, with a 1,500 lb. horse in the trailer. The tongue is hinged up and down so the only tongue weight on the receiver is the weight of the tongue itself. In this case two axles are better than one. And you don't have to apply a band-aid fix (WDH) to make it trail right.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:59 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
There "Appears/IS" a consistent theme here on this forum every other DAY and with fiberglass enthusiast trailer folks in general and that has to do with towing capacities of tow vehicles in regards to the loaded trailer weight and tongue weight of their fiberglass trailer they currently own OR are looking to purchase.

One of the "Thrills" of a fiberglass trailer to many is their perceived "light weight". An Eriba Puck camper at less than a 1,000 lbs IS light. A 5th wheel Escape at 5,000+ lbs is NOT light!

Many here on the forum and those new to the forum want to pull their "Lightweight Fiberglass Trailer" with a small SUV with tow rating of 2,000 lbs to 5,000 lbs max. That's all ya hear my "Fiberglass Frailer" tows great with my Toyota RAV 4 or Honda CRV with my WDH or other trailer towing aids. IF you had a CAPABLE tow vehicle you would not need all these "Towing Aids" to pull a 3,000 lb or LESS FIBERGLASS TAG TRAILER!

Stopping your "RIG" and Emergency Control Ability of your rig also needs to be BIG consideration this equation of tow vehicle selection yet there is never much discussion about stopping and safety when it comes to tow vehicles. It's more about comfort and fuel mileage when these discussions arise. Ya I know everyone wants the best fuel mileage they can get and the TOW RATING on my Honda CRV/Toyota RAV 4 is greater than the loaded weight of my fiberglass trailer so I am good to go. If that's the case then WHY DO NEED TOWING AIDS to make your rig safe and capable when towing your trailer?

All of this discussion is great HOWEVER how about selecting the trailer you want and BEFORE you buy that trailer how about making sure that tow vehicle you already own or will purchase is anywhere near capable of safely towing your new trailer WITHOUT all the trailer towing BAND AIDS discussed above?

What a "Novel" idea!!!
Being a "vintage racer" I don't suppose you used any of those "racing aids" like better shocks or tires or suspension mods. Just stone stock with HD (that's Howdy Doody) shocks and pizza cutter tires, right?
Or are you only talking about "Drag racing" where the car wears fender skirts on the rear and Dagmars on the front bumper?
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Old 12-01-2018, 05:37 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
All of this discussion is great HOWEVER how about selecting the trailer you want and BEFORE you buy that trailer how about making sure that tow vehicle you already own or will purchase is anywhere near capable of safely towing your new trailer WITHOUT all the trailer towing BAND AIDS discussed above?
Trailer towing BAND AIDS? Don't make me laugh. Oops I already did.
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:52 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Bruce H View Post
In the late '50s and early '60s I used to see these being towed behind Cadillacs and Lincolns, with a 1,500 lb. horse in the trailer. The tongue is hinged up and down so the only tongue weight on the receiver is the weight of the tongue itself. In this case two axles are better than one. And you don't have to apply a band-aid fix (WDH) to make it trail right.
Try backing that up and you'll see the disadvantage. But yes, it's the same idea that modern semi truck trailers and car tow dollies use.
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Old 12-01-2018, 11:59 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Bruce H View Post
The tongue is hinged up and down so the only tongue weight on the receiver is the weight of the tongue itself. In this case two axles are better than one. And you don't have to apply a band-aid fix (WDH) to make it trail right.

So, where are they now? Should be pretty popular, but I don't see any. See lots of WDHs though.
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:20 AM   #71
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Raspy has already nailed the biggest reason: backing up. I'd hate to be limited to pull-through sites. I'll guess cost and weight are other reasons, a result of having a steering axle. Getting that right with good high speed stability adds a fair bit of complexity.

These have attracted a small following, but I haven't seen one on an interstate.
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As to WDH, I think we are being goaded into an off-topic debate here.
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:26 AM   #72
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Ok students, today we learn how to back a trailer:


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Old 12-02-2018, 04:32 PM   #73
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Give that guy a raise!
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Old 12-02-2018, 04:56 PM   #74
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my kid's pintle hitch rig...



I don't have a full view of the truck + trailer, but here's a rear view of the trailer...



how /else/ would you carry a couple 10KW generators, 350 gallons of water, and 300 gallons of diesel to the party???

p.s. that trailer has a 22000 lb payload, and weighs 11000 lbs empty. woot. the truck weighed about 26000 lbs empty prior to the mods, and had a 10000 lb payload. all payloads are for offroad 'war conditions'.
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Old 12-02-2018, 05:00 PM   #75
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Riveting stuff.
Pull forward to straighten tow and trailer and back up. Get out of shape. Pull forward to straighten tow and trailer and back up. Reminds me of being aboard an ice-breaker. <_<
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Old 12-03-2018, 12:07 AM   #76
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trying to think of how many times I've had to back up my trailer around a turn.... hoooookay..... that would be /more/ than having to backup straight. a lot more.
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