Edging for Fiberglass - under seat storage area.

[wxmixte]

We have raw edges of the fiberglass around the cut outs where the under seat storage compartments are in our 1980 Burro. Previously they were taped with white duct tape, but that is quite old so we removed it. I wanted to see how your storage compartment or cabinet cut outs around your fiberglass edges are trimmed/finished to get some ideas about how to make it neat and tidy.

[Jon in AZ]

Scamp doesn't trim the top-loading bench hatches. I'm guessing trim, unless it's really thin, might concentrate pressure from the hatch cover on the edge of the opening, or maybe they just figure you hardly ever look at it. Which is true... I'd be inclined to sand it smooth if the appearance or roughness bothers you and let it be.

[k0wtz]

Our 13f scamper isn't trimmed out but the opening has an inset and a board layed in there thus not needed the trim.

bob

[wxmixte]

Great thank you both! For sanding the edge of the fiberglass do you know what grit would work best? And if it would be better to invest in an electric sander? Or is this something I could do by hand?

Thank you all so much for the feedback!

[k0wtz]

well think this scamp also uses trim pieces to trim out some places they think is needed. I think jon mentioned you can get this at home dept I haven't looked yet.

the pieces sort of slide in a groove and you miter the corners. if jon doesn't recall im sure scamper would sell you some!

bob

[k0wtz]

I looked at your pictures again it looks like you have the insent so just add your boards you need them for support anyway.

bob

[Jon in AZ]

The trim Scamp uses for the front-loading cabinet door openings is rigid plastic C-channel. You would not want to use it in the bench openings because the cover would rest on the trim rather than on the recessed lip as designed.

You could probably hand sand, but I'd use the palm sander I already have. I'd start with a medium grit and see how that does. Wear complete protection when cutting or sanding fiberglass: full-coverage clothes, gloves, goggles, and an N95 particulate respirator. Ensure plenty of ventilation.

[Casita Greg]

When I added a new cutout under the front closet I used this stuff. Its a friction fit push-on that is flexible and can be cut to whatever dimension you need. You can get it in several colors and sizes, as well as thickness for sliding it onto your rough edge. Measure the thickness you need and go from there. Good luck.

3/16" White Edge Trim Lok Camper Trailer RV Seal Lock Boat Vinyl | eBay

[Mike_L]

I used plastic C-channel from Home Depot. Cut to fit and push on over the edge. Works great and easy to apply.

[k corbin]

Get some of the vinyl edge molding that is sold for putting on the edges of car doors to prevent getting nicks in the paint. The most cost effective place to purchase larger quantities of it is Ebay shipped direct from China. Keywords are "car door edge guard".

You can purchase this product from your local auto parts and marine supply stores. Your local store is a good place to take an in person look at this product.

My Campster trailer has an edge of fiberglass all around the exterior at the body join. That is what I used on it because that is what the maker of the trailer did with it. It is very easy to cut with a utility knife or workshop scissors. There is a little bit of adhesive already inside the bottom of this channel, it will stay in place once installed. When taking it around curves it helps to warm it up with a heat gun on medium or a hair dryer on high in the area of the curve.

I went with an Ebay purchase because I needed a big roll of it, I purchased 45 feet, enough to go all the way around my Campster in one continuous piece. It cost me only $16.00 with free shipping and the quality was excellent! It comes in white, clear, black, silver, etc.

The price difference per foot for this edging, approx 37 cents when bought in large rolls versus the wide Edge Trim Lok at $2.50 per foot is considerable if you are buying quite a lot of it. Both of them will protect the edge and be durable. The door edge guard molding is less bulky in size which is a benefit under doors and panels.

[Kai in Seattle]

Paul and I designed Peanut to not need most trim; he sanded areas very, very smooth and used marine primer and marine enamel--enough coats, sanded with very fine grit between coats, to make very smooth areas. Even our windowsills are "untrimmed." Our countertop is untrimmed. Or, I should say, self-trimmed.

And sealed with paint or sealer.

BEST
Kai

[YourHighness]

I have a 1980 Burro . I just left the edges as they’re always covered and I never notice them. I would however, like stated above, sand out any rough edges with some sandpaper by hand to make sure you don’t catch yourself on them. 150 grit should work fine.

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by wxmixte

We have raw edges of the fiberglass around the cut outs where the under seat storage compartments are in our 1980 Burro. Previously they were taped with white duct tape, but that is quite old so we removed it. I wanted to see how your storage compartment or cabinet cut outs around your fiberglass edges are trimmed/finished to get some ideas about how to make it neat and tidy.

We have a Casita and all the openings have the same stuff that Casita Greg shows in his pictures. Very nice finish and no chance of chipping the fiberglass or getting a splinter from it in your hands. I wouldn't just sand it and leave it.

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

When I added a new cutout under the front closet I used this stuff. Its a friction fit push-on that is flexible and can be cut to whatever dimension you need. You can get it in several colors and sizes, as well as thickness for sliding it onto your rough edge. Measure the thickness you need and go from there. Good luck.

3/16" White Edge Trim Lok Camper Trailer RV Seal Lock Boat Vinyl | eBay

I love the extra door under your closet. I get so tired of trying to dig to the bottom of the closet for stuff. Where did you get the door? I noticed the electric outlet is on the far left. Did you move it? Mine is about center and is useless in that location.

[Mike_L]

Careful if you sand fiberglass. The dust is toxic.

[Kai in Seattle]

Yes, as stated above (Mike L and others) the fiberglass dust is toxic. Wear protective eyewear and at LEAST a dust mask. Shower afterwards.

Also...if you start with a 150 grit and then go over it again with a finer grit, and THEN even a finer grit, you'll discover you can create a LOVELY smooth surface. Be sure to slightly round the corners as you go for an even smoother effect.

Nice looking trailer you have there! More than well worth your hard work!

BEST
Kai

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Jann Todd

I love the extra door under your closet. I get so tired of trying to dig to the bottom of the closet for stuff. Where did you get the door? I noticed the electric outlet is on the far left. Did you move it? Mine is about center and is useless in that location.

Hi Jann,
The door is just a piece of the same crappy MDF "Particle Board" that Casita uses for all their factory cabinet doors. It was originally included as their idea of a cutting board that went over the sink. I would never cut or prep food on a piece of MDF or plywood. Yuck! However, I did find a use for it as the new cabinet door below the hanging closet, when I also added a floor in the closet at the level of the door bottom. Hinges are identical to the OE ones found on the other doors, and I got them at Lowe's. The push button latch I bought from Casita, (actually I bought several because they tend to break often.)
Yes, I did "relocate" the lower outlet when I was laying out my opening since it was right in the way. While I was at it, I also added another outlet in the upper corner next to the bathroom/closet bulkhead. My wife really likes this one because she plugs in her hair gizmos while using the big bathroom door mirror. I don't have to trip over the cords anymore.

[k0wtz]

greg you are a thinking and a doorer I like you stuff

bob

[Casita Greg]

Thanks Bob.

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Hi Jann,
The door is just a piece of the same crappy MDF "Particle Board" that Casita uses for all their factory cabinet doors. It was originally included as their idea of a cutting board that went over the sink. I would never cut or prep food on a piece of MDF or plywood. Yuck! However, I did find a use for it as the new cabinet door below the hanging closet, when I also added a floor in the closet at the level of the door bottom. Hinges are identical to the OE ones found on the other doors, and I got them at Lowe's. The push button latch I bought from Casita, (actually I bought several because they tend to break often.)
Yes, I did "relocate" the lower outlet when I was laying out my opening since it was right in the way. While I was at it, I also added another outlet in the upper corner next to the bathroom/closet bulkhead. My wife really likes this one because she plugs in her hair gizmos while using the big bathroom door mirror. I don't have to trip over the cords anymore.

Thank you for your answer. I love your use of the useless cutting board. We never cover our sink with it since when in transit the faucet lets a little water out. How did you attach the shelf between the 2 doors? This will be one of my next improvement projects on the Casita. One thing I did was put an outlet on the side of the wall above the fridge where the microwave goes. I used a white surface mount outlet and ran the wire to the outlet the microwave plugs into. I actually used a very heavy duty stove cord and just plugged it into the extra outlet since with a microwave in the cabinet you can't get to the outlet. It is not a built in microwave. It is about eye level so we can plug in our cell phone and voltage monitor.