Eeeeeeeeee Drain Help needed

[BatDude]

Hi all,

I have had several issues with the gray water tank connection on our 16' Scamp.
The first cap that came with it had one locking tab break off shortly after we received it. I replaced it then a tab broke off on one side of the replacement as well.

OK, so that is not a real big deal as the cap remains in place when traveling.

The important issue is just now when when connecting the drain hose to the black water tank (small really) to drain it first thing this AM I noted that a tab on the drailn connector was also broken off.

So on draining the black water tank (so far only liquids in there) it leaked all over my shirt sleeve etc.

I will go buy a replacement this AM but really wondering why this is happening.

Any ideas or suggestions for the long time gurus?

Still lov'n our Scamp

[Bob Miller]

I can't guess "What's goin' On' without seeing it, but I would guess that SCAMP is getting parts from someone that's not making great reproductions of the parts they are cloning???? Which is to say that there is a lot of unbranded Cr@p out there for RV parts, just check on eBay and look where it is shipping from!


Something to make the job easier and less apt to break the tabs is to lubricate the seal inside the cap and grease on the tabs so it places less stress on the tabs when removing & installing


Apart from that, I would suggest getting new caps, with the small "Garden Hose" connections, so you don't have to remove the entire cap then draining the gray tank and can easily drain off liquid from the black tank to make room when needed.

[steve dunham]

Living in Michigan ,I am assuming it is winter and cold . Some plastics become extremely brittle at low temperatures . I broke the sewer cap on our old Scamp when I tried to take it off at 16 below zero. I did not have that problem when the temperatures were more reasonable. I worked at several plastic molding plants and as Bob noted the quality varies greatly. The problem may be the type of plastics used , casting temperature of the plastic or how much scrap plastic they recycle into the product.

[BatDude]

Hi all,

This happened with the unit was new, then again later on our way south and just again in 80 F temp in southern Calif.

[Donna D.]

Who are you?

I'm not going to apologize. This is a really friendly and helpful group. The least you can do is tell us your human name in your signature and tell us the year/size of your trailer.

Help us help you!

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by BatDude

Hi all,

This happened with the unit was new, then again later on our way south and just again in 80 F temp in southern Calif.

If its as you say a new unit then I am going to suggest that the fitting on the outtake is to blame - possible misaligned in the manufacturing process? Call Scamp and have them arrange to have it replaced someplace near you.

[Jallen]

I broke tabs on my scamp until I figured out I wasn't pushing the cap on all the way before twisting. Now I fully seat the cap, then twist and haven't had any more problems. (Maybe replacement caps are better quality too)

[papa-t]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Who are you?

I'm not going to apologize. This is a really friendly and helpful group. The least you can do is tell us your human name in your signature and tell us the year/size of your trailer.

Help us help you!

Maybe he's really BatMan. Ok just messing around. I can say in 16 years of camping I've never broken one of these tabs off (yet). But you might not be seating the hose on all the way before twisting. Is this possible as Jallen suggested ?

[BatDude]

Tnx all,

Late yesterday I purchased a different hose connector with 4 locking tabs so hopefully that will solve the issues. I will also make sure it is seated all the way before twisting.

Donna D. ??? not sure what your last name is, but clearly last names are not relevant ;-)

On that note I am not sure why my "Public profile" is not displaying as that includes trailer info e.g. Scamp 16' and the fact that wife and I are conservation biologists. I do bats and she did jaguars (cats not cars) when were lived and worked in Central America for the last 25 years. We have NOT been doing well in Michigan for the past 3 years since returning to the U.S. hence why we are now traveling south.

Actually we are working on a bat project as we speak and based for a few weeks in Blythe, Ca. on the lower Colorado River. So Bat Dude is still appropriate.
And for "Full Disclosure" with first and middle name omitting last name I am Bruce Wayne.

[BatDude]

As I noted Friday I picked up a new 4 lug drain hose connector.

The clerk at the RV supply store (also a warranty repair station for Dometic etc.) suggested I come back Saturday to talk to owner.

So mid morning we trundled over and met the owner and service person.

I explained my dilemma and that I was a clueless Newbie to RVing.
I discussed I thought purchasing a drain cap with the standard garden hose connection would be great for the gray water, then use our main drain hose for the black water so it would not fill the small tank.

Another lesson learned!!!!

The fellow suggested I do not do that, as he makes his living charging top $$$ cleaning out folks RV black water tanks that have been drained continually. This leaves solids behind that do not flow out as the liquids drain continually.

So eventually a lump of solids hardens and needs to be cleaned out at premium prices.

His recommendation is to let the tank fill then drain as normal and all will be drained AKA Flushed at one time.

So I did not buy new connectors and am good to go with what I have on hand.

This Newbie is on the steep end of the learning curve.

[Bob Miller]

I have seen very large RV black tanks that needed "Professional" cleaning with several weeks of waste left to solidify after liquid was drained off, or the RV was parked for months and the liquid evaporated out the vent tube leaving a solidified mess in the tank. Keeping in mind that your Service Guy's advice is correct for a perfect world when you always have a dump station nearby when you need one. Lacking that, here's a few tips to add to my post #2.


Using the small fitting on the gray cap for draining will create no problems for the gray tank unless you start dumping all kinds of solids down the drain like chopped fruit/veggies or don't clean solid food off of plates before washing, then it will clogg the small opening and you will have to remove the entire cap and use the larger hose..


My suggestion to also put a cap with a small drain fitting on the black tank was so you could easily drain off some liquid from the black tank in the event that it was "Full" and there was no easy way to dump the entire tank. Of course it's up to you to be sure it gets properly drained and cleared after that.


And the Poor Mans/Smart RV'ers solution to the residue build up in the black tank is to pour 15 lbs of ice cubes into the toilet, add water, drive around a bit, and then drain. Breaks up and cleans it out every time.

[kirkman]

Do Ice Cubes in the RV Black Tank Really Work?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iH6acEmqvcw#

Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Bob Miller]

I guess, if you are using NASA certified substitute waste, and need immediate gratification, that ice cubes may not be a solution. But, for the thousands of RV'ers that have been using the ice cube trick for years, it seems to be effective.

I would think that it's reasonable that you should first add some water and let it soak for a while, even overnight, before throwing in the ice, and that's still a lot faster and cheaper than having Joe's RV Service do it for you.


As I have mentioned before about certain videos, "Scientific Method" seems to be an unknown concept in the testing protocols used.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I guess, if you are using NASA certified substitute waste, and need immediate gratification, that ice cubes may not be a solution. But, for the thousands of RV'ers that have been using the ice cube trick for years, it seems to be effective.

I would think that it's reasonable that you should first add some water and let it soak for a while, even overnight, before throwing in the ice, and that's still a lot faster and cheaper than having Joe's RV Service do it for you.


As I have mentioned before about certain videos, "Scientific Method" seems to be an unknown concept in the testing protocols used.

Bob ,the material used in the ice cube test shown on the You Tube video is very similar to what is used to test /certify water closets for their ability to evacuate human waste. We have used dishwasher detergent designed for cleaning food waste off of dishes in our black and gray tanks with success . The detergent is easy to store,easy to use , is light weight and cheaper than a bag of ice.

[Glenn Baglo]

Given the low friction value of ice, it seems to me that filling the tank with Brillo pads would work better. <_<

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by BatDude

The fellow suggested I do not do that, as he makes his living charging top $$$ cleaning out folks RV black water tanks that have been drained continually. This leaves solids behind that do not flow out as the liquids drain continually.

So eventually a lump of solids hardens and needs to be cleaned out at premium prices.

His recommendation is to let the tank fill then drain as normal and all will be drained AKA Flushed at one time.

He is correct! Just before dumping my black tank I always make a point of filling it right up with water - more liquid in the tank will result in a much better flush out when you open the valve up to dump.

On my grey water tank I do have the cap with the smaller garden hose connection which I only use when I am draining the tank off into my portable waste container which I normally only use when dry camping and keeping the trailer parked in one location for an extended time. If emptying the grey water tank at a dump station I use the large slinky hose. When you use the smaller hose there is not enough water flow and as a result you will probable end up with a build up of small dish washing bits or coffee grounds etc left behind in the tank. No matter how hard you try to avoid bits of stuff going down the sink somehow some always manage to go down it. If bits of stuff are left sitting in an empty grey tank in warm weather the tank may start to smell a little bit. I use a water tank wand to give both the grey and black tanks a good rinsing out before leaving the trailer parked unused for more than a few days, to make sure they are completely rinsed out and nothing is left behind.

[Bob Miller]

Well Ya.... But (pardon the pun) what is used for flushing and bowl clearing tests isn't the same stuff sometimes found in RV holding tanks that has been there, sometimes for months, and has turned to a dry and almost rock like mountain.


But (sorry) I agree, adding a detergent soak is also effective and I can support that as well. But (sorry again) doing both, the detergent soak and ice cubes might do an even better job. One can only try and see what works for them.


I just don't care for sloppy experiments that claim to prove or disprove a point when, if one is smarter than a 4th grader, don't to either.