Electric Tongue Jack

[Donna D.]

Nope, no predrilled hole available. Here's a picture:



ignore the rust!

The coupler is actually fairly angled up to the frame as shown in this picture:




I don't suppose the jack would take to kindly to being mounted at an angle but there's plenty of room behind the coupler to have a piece of steel welded and drilled.

humm, also I check out that link to the white jack Morgan. Figures, it's on sale right now and the sale goes off in two days. Could be the IRS is just gonna have to wait

[Roger H]

Donna, probably the easiest thing to do is to go to an RV store, and for $25 buy a new coupler. Any welding shop (or anyone with a welder) can cut the old one off and weld a new one on in less than an hour or so. Then your new jack is a direct bolt-in, and you'll have a brand new coupler to boot. It's really a pretty simple operation, and it'll save a ton of jury-rigging...

Roger

[Donna D.]

That's a good idea Roger. I'd like to go to a 2" ball as well, this would fix that problem too.

[Brian B-P]

I'm all for having a new and sound coupler, but the change to a standard design would mean a rise in the ball height: that may be okay, but the corresponding change in the hitch ball platform needs to be done (as well as the ball change since this is apparently a 1-7/8" to 2" conversion too).

The common A-frame couplers assume a standard angle between the sides of the tongue. Although everyone seems to use the same angle, I'd check for fit before grinding off the old coupler! Also, the coupler installation instructions typically say how much the tongue frame rails should overlap into the coupler for strength; because this trailer currently must have a sloped end to the rails, I think it would be good to check that a new flat coupler would meet the installation requirements.