Electrical horror show - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2020, 01:18 PM   #1
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Name: Sonny
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Yukon
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Electrical horror show

I have a 1975 Ventura and the electrical wiring in it is super confusing. The trailer lights and brake lights on the outside work but none of lights or plug-ins on the inside have any wires leading to them.There is existing wiring running on the floor but it has a some cut wires and lots of taped together splices. I don't even know where to start. Does anyone have a wiring scheme or any solid advice? Thank you. Sonny
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Old 06-14-2020, 03:41 PM   #2
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
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Start with a blank sheet of paper and build a wiring plan. The Trillium wiring diagram in the document center is a good place to start. Exterior marker lights and tail lights are powered by the tow vehicle.

Key decisions include where you are going to install a power control center, how you are going to attach to 120V AC power, how many 120V AC and how many 12V DC circuits you want, how many amps will you need for both types. Separate circuits allow you to isolate problems. For example, my 1977 Trillium came with ONE 120V AC circuit and ONE 12V DC circuit. It now has several of each, bigger converter, etc.
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:58 PM   #3
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Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
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Originally Posted by sonny75 View Post
I have a 1975 Ventura and the electrical wiring in it is super confusing. The trailer lights and brake lights on the outside work but none of lights or plug-ins on the inside have any wires leading to them.There is existing wiring running on the floor but it has a some cut wires and lots of taped together splices. I don't even know where to start. Does anyone have a wiring scheme or any solid advice? Thank you. Sonny
sounds like its a stalled restoration-in-progress, and you can do pretty much anything you want with it.

does it have a battery? a power center with a 120VAC cord?

a full featured electric system would be something like this...
  • 120VAC cord to breaker panel
  • breaker to assorted 120V outlets inside and/or outside (use GCI outlets near the kitchen, and outside)
  • breaker to DC charger/converter power center with fuse box (often AC breakers are integrated into the same center)
  • deep cycle 12V (or 2 6V in series) battery to power center
  • fuse(s) to lighting circuit(s)
  • fuse to ventilation fan
  • fuse to water pump (assuming you have a water tank)
  • fuse to furnace (assuming you have a heater)
  • fuse to refrigerator (assuming fridge needs 12V for its controls)
  • fuse to water heater (assuming water heater has a 12V ignitor and controls)

as said by others, your driving lights are an entirely separate circuit. driven by the connector to the tow vehicle.

I left out trailer brakes, they are too a separate circuit connected to the tow connector, but also connected to a breakaway switch which is connected to the battery, to lock the trailer brakes in case of the trailer coming unhitched.
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Old 06-14-2020, 09:28 PM   #4
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Name: Sonny
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
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Thanks John
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Old 06-16-2020, 03:40 PM   #5
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1971 Hunter compact Jr, 1979 Terry 19', 2003 Scamp 16'
California
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Bill and John have covered what you need quite well. What I will add is that it may seem intimidatin. Don't let it be. You're dealing with a minimal number of circuits. They're all short runs. Make sure all of your connections are solid and watertight. Don't allow any pinch points. Take your time.
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Old 06-20-2020, 04:50 PM   #6
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Name: Sonny
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Yukon
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Ok thanks pep talk Terry
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